ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
The shock is rebuildable. You just need a complete set of new shock tools as the mono-shock is huge compared to other rebuildable snowmobile shocks.
I would recommend you at least try to convince your dealer to install the rail reinforcement kit on your skid - ideally try to get all of the updated parts. The new pivot arm I'm on the fence with right now. The updated arm is definitely stronger if you're the type who likes lots of jumps, causing the weight transfer rod to hammer into the arm.
Mine never broke in this area. It always cracked at the bracket that attached to the rails. Take a look in the stock suspension section for pictures of the cracks.
I would recommend you at least try to convince your dealer to install the rail reinforcement kit on your skid - ideally try to get all of the updated parts. The new pivot arm I'm on the fence with right now. The updated arm is definitely stronger if you're the type who likes lots of jumps, causing the weight transfer rod to hammer into the arm.
Mine never broke in this area. It always cracked at the bracket that attached to the rails. Take a look in the stock suspension section for pictures of the cracks.
ecopter
TY 4 Stroke Guru
NY Warrior is correct about the wheels. When you get your Polaris wheels (5.35), just remove the plastic spacer inserts in those and also your Yamaha wheels and put the Yamaha spacers in the Poo wheels. Very simple. And yes, the SRX wheels should be the same, although someone could chime in about the '05 mono front wheels. I'm only familiar with all pro-action skids on the RX series.
Jon
Jon
QCRider
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I have the slp pads installed, and at 1200 miles my hyfax were not even half worn out.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
My original hyfax were still going strong at 10,100 kms. I figured they had another 4000 kms in them if the bolt holding them in place hadn't snapped off because the rail tip came loose.
They will wear fast if you're not careful. I found if you ride in good snow for the first few 1000 kms they were good for a very long time.
I still overheated them several times though (not just smell, but smoke!). I would say the setup is a little borderline for overheating, but if you can make it through the early overheating period they can last a long time.
They will wear fast if you're not careful. I found if you ride in good snow for the first few 1000 kms they were good for a very long time.
I still overheated them several times though (not just smell, but smoke!). I would say the setup is a little borderline for overheating, but if you can make it through the early overheating period they can last a long time.
SLEDSTART
VIP Member
hey guys...thanks for the responses.
What are the SLP pads? and how do they install? Who sells them?
Also as far as the poo wheels and the "plastic spacers" you guys are talking about, Are you referring to a pro action skid or the Mono skid? My stock bogies do not have any kind of plactic spacer. There are aluminum spacers that bolt on the rail with the inner race of the wheel bearing riding right on the spacer itself. The wheel itself is soild plastic and you can not chande the bearings in them. They were junk so I was going to replace them until the dealer said they were 44 bucks a piece. I decided to buy the blue Yami wheels since they look beter and they were half the price. They also have the rubber on the outer running surface. Now I see you guys talking about the Poo wheels and not sure if these will fit on the mono since the inner race of the bearing just rides on the aluminum spacer attached to the rails.
????????
What are the SLP pads? and how do they install? Who sells them?
Also as far as the poo wheels and the "plastic spacers" you guys are talking about, Are you referring to a pro action skid or the Mono skid? My stock bogies do not have any kind of plactic spacer. There are aluminum spacers that bolt on the rail with the inner race of the wheel bearing riding right on the spacer itself. The wheel itself is soild plastic and you can not chande the bearings in them. They were junk so I was going to replace them until the dealer said they were 44 bucks a piece. I decided to buy the blue Yami wheels since they look beter and they were half the price. They also have the rubber on the outer running surface. Now I see you guys talking about the Poo wheels and not sure if these will fit on the mono since the inner race of the bearing just rides on the aluminum spacer attached to the rails.
????????
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
The 05 (and 06) 4-strokes don't use the plastic bushings. The bearing ID fits directly on a cast and machined aluminum mount/spacer.
All of the Poo and Doo sleds (I'm aware of) use a 6205 bearing which has the same ID as the 6005 bearing used on the 05/06 4-strokes.
The only thing to be aware of is the 6205 bearing is 3mm (0.120") wider than the 6005 (as well as twice as heavy). This means the bolts are marginal in length and should be changed (the locking nut won't "lock" properly with the stock bolts).
If you have a mono-suspension and the rail updates there are actually 3 different length bolts already and you only need to order one pair of Yamaha 95817-10085-00 bolts (or go to a hardware store...).
Also the inner pair of idlers on the mono-skid ride between pairs of drive gogs. Swapping to any wheel using 6205 bearings causes the new wheel to ride 1.5mm (0.060") closer to the inner drive gog.
My inner spacers/mounts have been turned down by 1.5mm (0.060") so I can run 6205 based wheels correctly centered.
I'm going to run the stock Yamaha diameter as I didn't really have much trouble with hyfax wear last season.
The larger wheels don't sound like a bad idea (I would run them if I thought hyfax wear was a problem in my case).
All of the Poo and Doo sleds (I'm aware of) use a 6205 bearing which has the same ID as the 6005 bearing used on the 05/06 4-strokes.
The only thing to be aware of is the 6205 bearing is 3mm (0.120") wider than the 6005 (as well as twice as heavy). This means the bolts are marginal in length and should be changed (the locking nut won't "lock" properly with the stock bolts).
If you have a mono-suspension and the rail updates there are actually 3 different length bolts already and you only need to order one pair of Yamaha 95817-10085-00 bolts (or go to a hardware store...).
Also the inner pair of idlers on the mono-skid ride between pairs of drive gogs. Swapping to any wheel using 6205 bearings causes the new wheel to ride 1.5mm (0.060") closer to the inner drive gog.
My inner spacers/mounts have been turned down by 1.5mm (0.060") so I can run 6205 based wheels correctly centered.
I'm going to run the stock Yamaha diameter as I didn't really have much trouble with hyfax wear last season.
The larger wheels don't sound like a bad idea (I would run them if I thought hyfax wear was a problem in my case).
SLEDSTART
VIP Member
well...I think I am going to try running the graphite hyfax and the non stock "blue" yami wheels since I already bought them. If I eat them up quick i will go to the larger wheels and longer bolts. Thanks again rex for the bit of info on the bolts. Very helpful stuff. Also the info on the inner wheels as well.
If we ever sell these things someone is really going to scratching their heads as to why they are eating up the stock Yami wheels after tuning those spacers down...LOL
If we ever sell these things someone is really going to scratching their heads as to why they are eating up the stock Yami wheels after tuning those spacers down...LOL
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
I should make a correction - you actually need 4 of the longer bolts. I put my skid together this evening and the stock (with reinforced rails) bolts are a little too short.
SLEDSTART
VIP Member
so to clarify:
If I have the rail updates & any wheel with a 6205 bearing I need 4 (one for each ideler) 95817-10085-00 bolts....right?
When you said this:
If you have a mono-suspension and the rail updates there are actually 3 different length bolts already and you only need to order one pair of Yamaha 95817-10085-00 bolts
I was not sure what you meant by the "3 different bolts" comment.
If I have the rail updates & any wheel with a 6205 bearing I need 4 (one for each ideler) 95817-10085-00 bolts....right?
When you said this:
If you have a mono-suspension and the rail updates there are actually 3 different length bolts already and you only need to order one pair of Yamaha 95817-10085-00 bolts
I was not sure what you meant by the "3 different bolts" comment.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
Correct, except there are 6 lower idlers in total and the front two can use the old bolts from any of the other 4 idlers (with the 6502 bearings).
I made an error in the original post. When the rail reinforcement kit is installed it comes with 4 longer bolts to install through the thicker rails (because of the reinforcement).
I thought on my original 05 update the reinforcement kit bolts were 2 different lengths (ending up with 3 different lengths). For sure on this new skid the 4 bolts are the same length.
I made an error in the original post. When the rail reinforcement kit is installed it comes with 4 longer bolts to install through the thicker rails (because of the reinforcement).
I thought on my original 05 update the reinforcement kit bolts were 2 different lengths (ending up with 3 different lengths). For sure on this new skid the 4 bolts are the same length.
SLEDSTART
VIP Member
gotchya...
Mighty
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"Anti" Wear pads. Easy as installing a stud.SNOWDOG said:
www.denniskirk.com/jsp/search/search.js ... atId=30804
SLEDSTART
VIP Member
Thanks MW
Seems like some guys are not having hyfax issues and some are. I don't know why...but I am going to try the graphite hyfax first...then the poo wheels if that don't work...and the pads last if I have to. I hate studding or anything like it. And as easy as this skid is to pull I don't mind having to yank it again mid season to put them in.
Seems like some guys are not having hyfax issues and some are. I don't know why...but I am going to try the graphite hyfax first...then the poo wheels if that don't work...and the pads last if I have to. I hate studding or anything like it. And as easy as this skid is to pull I don't mind having to yank it again mid season to put them in.
SLEDSTART
VIP Member
Hey Rex,
Any idea what the difference betwen a 6004 and a 6005 bearing is?
I have been trying to order these wheels and Dennis Kirk has been out of stock and comes with no bearing. JR Grahm is also OOS but they said the wheel can be ordered with the 6205 or the 6004 bearing. I did get the longer bolts from Yamaha so should I just get the 6205's? or will the 6004's work and be flush with the spacer not needing the longer bolts? They should be back in stock next week so I want to get the right bearings with them when I order.
Thanks again...
Any idea what the difference betwen a 6004 and a 6005 bearing is?
I have been trying to order these wheels and Dennis Kirk has been out of stock and comes with no bearing. JR Grahm is also OOS but they said the wheel can be ordered with the 6205 or the 6004 bearing. I did get the longer bolts from Yamaha so should I just get the 6205's? or will the 6004's work and be flush with the spacer not needing the longer bolts? They should be back in stock next week so I want to get the right bearings with them when I order.
Thanks again...
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
6004 bearings have a 20mm ID. 6005 and 6205 bearings have a 25mm ID.
The 6004 bearings are typically used on the rear axle with the larger wheels and they will not fit on a shaft a 6005 or 6205 bearing fits.
I would recommend going with wheels that use 6205 bearings. They will last longer and are cheaper (but are about twice the weight of the newer 05/06 wheels using 6005 bearings).
The 6004 bearings are typically used on the rear axle with the larger wheels and they will not fit on a shaft a 6005 or 6205 bearing fits.
I would recommend going with wheels that use 6205 bearings. They will last longer and are cheaper (but are about twice the weight of the newer 05/06 wheels using 6005 bearings).
