05 rx1 hanging idle

superfan75 said:
Man that sled is being stubborn huh ? Good luck with it.
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I think its the throttle position switch (TPS). You can seach my posts in a few recent threads so I don't repeat myself. I had problems all last year with my 03 RX1. Finally this year it threw a code and a check engine light. If you want more info, PM me. A number of people have resorted to buying a used set of carbs to fix a number of problems. I'm sure the switch was the problem.
 
That would be something if that is what's giving BETHEVIPER all his problems. It might make sense since it sounds like he's gone threw everything on the carbs that's possible. I remember reading on the 2 stroke side of the TPS causing running issues if it fails.
 
I just had the same issues with a hanging idle, at about 3500 rpms, then it would slowly decrease down to a regular idle. Took it to my mechanic and he replaced the TPS with a regular idle bolt and its back to normal. Thank the lord......Ran her 200 miles this weekend without a hitch.
 
I did a check on the original tps switch, the ohms looked good, I did later swap out the carb bodies to no avail. I havent got the run down on the latest trip yet. I want to get it back and get the little flat spot out of it.
 
BETHEVIPER said:
So your throttle position sensors and removed your throttle override?
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Yes removed TPS switch on carbs, replaced with a regular bolt to adjust idle, plugged wires that went to TPS into each other to bypass, synced carbs and it runs awesome again with no hanging idle.
 
I think you mean TORS, throttle override system. TPS is the variable resister on the side that tells the computer where the throttle is in relation to closed.

Not sure why you removed the switch. You can just bypass that and leave it intact.
 
BETHEVIPER said:
I think you mean TORS, throttle override system. TPS is the variable resister on the side that tells the computer where the throttle is in relation to closed.

Not sure why you removed the switch. You can just bypass that and leave it intact.
Click to expand...

My mechanic took the switch off to replace it later as I did not want to miss a weekend riding. He was having a difficult time getting the motor to idle correctly with the switch being used as the idle adjustment. I am by no means a mechanic nor pretend to be. I just love to ride. And what ever he did fixed my issue which was an unstable idle. And I got to ride.....Winter is too short!!!!
 
The saga continues. I hate this sled. I have done carb work on several of these sleds and this one will be the end of me.
So sled was still acting weird, idle would change, has a bog around 7000.
Customer talked to another mechanic who said they always change out the o rings in the main jet towers every time they clean the carbs and that it would cause the issues he is having. I inspected them, they looked fine but installed them anyway. Found that in all the adjusting of the fuel screws, I had lost a tip off the needle screw. It was lodged into the hole, so one carb had no fuel at idle and the others were adjusted to get the correct sync. So I'm thinking this and maybe the o rings might be the fix. Put it together, sync the carbs. Idles great. I take it outside in the cold and the idle drops, I figure temp change and adjust. Seems good. Friend takes it for a ride, still has the bog and stammer around 7000. Back it comes.

So, I am going to check the coil packs again, I think I tried different ones in it but that might have been when most of the issue was idle and I had a broken fuel screw in it. BE CAREFUL WITH THESE, THEY ARE BRASS, NOT STAINLESS LIKE THE TWO STROKES.

If I don't see anything, I will check the tps again. Tors is bypassed. Then Im swapping coil packs with a donor sled, then the carbs, if nothing still, fuel pumps, if nothing, I have a cdi box. This dam sled is going to run this weekend if I have to strip the donor sled to nothing. Sad because last year, I had it tore to nothing to rebuild the motor.

Wish me luck and please, for the love of sledding, if you have any information that will make my life easier, please share.

Frustrated in Houlton
Scott
 
BETHEVIPER said:
The saga continues. I hate this sled. I have done carb work on several of these sleds and this one will be the end of me.
So sled was still acting weird, idle would change, has a bog around 7000.
Customer talked to another mechanic who said they always change out the o rings in the main jet towers every time they clean the carbs and that it would cause the issues he is having. I inspected them, they looked fine but installed them anyway. Found that in all the adjusting of the fuel screws, I had lost a tip off the needle screw. It was lodged into the hole, so one carb had no fuel at idle and the others were adjusted to get the correct sync. So I'm thinking this and maybe the o rings might be the fix. Put it together, sync the carbs. Idles great. I take it outside in the cold and the idle drops, I figure temp change and adjust. Seems good. Friend takes it for a ride, still has the bog and stammer around 7000. Back it comes.

So, I am going to check the coil packs again, I think I tried different ones in it but that might have been when most of the issue was idle and I had a broken fuel screw in it. BE CAREFUL WITH THESE, THEY ARE BRASS, NOT STAINLESS LIKE THE TWO STROKES.

If I don't see anything, I will check the tps again. Tors is bypassed. Then Im swapping coil packs with a donor sled, then the carbs, if nothing still, fuel pumps, if nothing, I have a cdi box. This dam sled is going to run this weekend if I have to strip the donor sled to nothing. Sad because last year, I had it tore to nothing to rebuild the motor.

Wish me luck and please, for the love of sledding, if you have any information that will make my life easier, please share.

Frustrated in Houlton
Scott
Click to expand...

I had idle and running issues, due to intermittent float valve failure, traced to poor O ring seat in the needle valve seat assembly. From other threads, the O rings in these carbs need alot of respect.
 
So, Im a dummy, let me state that up front. So the huge bog was from some guy (me) not tightening one of the main jets. So once the sled starts pulling the needles out onto the mains, huge amounts of fuel was dumping into the engine. So I fixed that, put it back together, (all this after installing a known good set of carbs and fuel pump to verify I did have a carb issue). Now the sled is back to having a surging idle issue, sometimes perfect, sometimes a little high, sometimes high enough to initiate engagement.
It was the Tors. I bypassed the tors and the idle settled down. So I might have figured this out last year if, the tors on the carb bodies I swapped out was good, but it wasn't. If i hadn't had the tip of the fuel screw break off in the carb, or if I hadn't forgot to tighten the main jet.

So now I will be a little more diligent for the next few years till I screw up again. and in all of this, I have learned what can happen when a tors messes up sporadically. I wold assume the ecu is looking at not just the TPS for information. It is looking at the Tors, when it sees an open it is thinking the throttle is pulled and was going into some kind of rpm hunting mission using the timing to adjust, since there is no other controls on a rx1 it could use. When the tors is bypassed, the computer sees it connected and goes into a fixed setting for idle. This is different than the tors problems I have seen with the 2 strokes.

You learn something new with every problem.

Hope sharing my stupidity has made someone smarter.
 
BETHEVIPER said:
So, Im a dummy, let me state that up front. So the huge bog was from some guy (me) not tightening one of the main jets. So once the sled starts pulling the needles out onto the mains, huge amounts of fuel was dumping into the engine. So I fixed that, put it back together, (all this after installing a known good set of carbs and fuel pump to verify I did have a carb issue). Now the sled is back to having a surging idle issue, sometimes perfect, sometimes a little high, sometimes high enough to initiate engagement.
It was the Tors. I bypassed the tors and the idle settled down. So I might have figured this out last year if, the tors on the carb bodies I swapped out was good, but it wasn't. If i hadn't had the tip of the fuel screw break off in the carb, or if I hadn't forgot to tighten the main jet.

So now I will be a little more diligent for the next few years till I screw up again. and in all of this, I have learned what can happen when a tors messes up sporadically. I wold assume the ecu is looking at not just the TPS for information. It is looking at the Tors, when it sees an open it is thinking the throttle is pulled and was going into some kind of rpm hunting mission using the timing to adjust, since there is no other controls on a rx1 it could use. When the tors is bypassed, the computer sees it connected and goes into a fixed setting for idle. This is different than the tors problems I have seen with the 2 strokes.

You learn something new with every problem.

Hope sharing my stupidity has made someone smarter.
Click to expand...
FYI, my friend...I don't think you're dumb at all! I appreciate you posting all your work and findings. ;)!
 
I relate to all the pain, I think many of us have been there. When these carbs are running well, boy what a pull they give you, and when everything was carbs back in the day, these were works of art, still are. But when they act up, tracing issues is painful, and you can't play with them while on the sled, removal always required. Thanks I've learned more about them, appreciate the sharing. For everything I've learned about these carbs, I've never heard a good explanation for that tiny O right on the upper diaphram seal. It will forever be a mystery. I only know without it things go wrong. Time to enjoy your sled, and get back to the love my sled.
 
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