Carbb1
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Last winter the starter failed and it damaged the starter gears and sheared the crank key. I replaced the starter, all the gears, flywheel, flywheel cluch, rotor and woodruff key. So After all that I started it and its ran rough and backfiring. Thinking maybe I didn't setting timming correctly. Pulled valve cover and the chain jump too. So I replaced the chain tensioner(by recommendation). Setting Chain and timming up again. Start, and still ran rough. Summer came and I put it to the side. Now starting to mess with it again. I find weak or now spark. Ohm tested the stator, pick up coil, the voltage rectorfier and all the spark plug coils and they read good. I had read that the stator sometimes fails when it gets hot. So I have changed the stator, and the pick coil and the rectorfier and new spark plugs. Now no spark at all. Rechecked all ohm reading and made sure everything was plugged in correctly. It seem the last thing is the ECU. Is there something I am missing or anyone have any ideas before I bite the bullet and buy a ECU.
Mooseman
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Did you check voltage and ground at the coils? Fuses? Even if chain timing was off, it would spark. Also try bypassing TORS.
RobX-1
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What about the stater and pickup coil replacement? If not OEM (ie. RM Stator), wasn't there something about the possibility of having to switch/swap the pickup coils' two wires if it doesn't start or am I off track? 

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Carbb1
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Ok Thanks. I will try today. Does anyone have a wiring schematic.
Mooseman
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If you become a VIP member, contact a Mod or Admin and they'll get you hooked up.
Carbb1
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Ok bybassed the TORS. Still no spark. All fuses good.
Turned key the run position. No voltage across the 2 leads of all three coils plugs. So I check one lead (brown)on each coil to battery ground and got 12 volts. Same with key in start position. Then did the same process on the other lead of all three coil plugs and got NO voltage or continuity. Am I suppose to get voltage or continuity on those leads? Where do those wires come from?
Turned key the run position. No voltage across the 2 leads of all three coils plugs. So I check one lead (brown)on each coil to battery ground and got 12 volts. Same with key in start position. Then did the same process on the other lead of all three coil plugs and got NO voltage or continuity. Am I suppose to get voltage or continuity on those leads? Where do those wires come from?
Carbb1
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Is the other lead of coil plugs coming from the ecu triggering the spark?
Mooseman
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One wire is 12V+, which you confirmed is good. Each of the other wires go to the ECU which triggers each one.
What brand of stator and pickup coil did you use? If an aftermarket, as mentioned by @RobX-1 , they are known to have problems. I don't know how to measure if the pickup coil is working, maybe with a scope?
What brand of stator and pickup coil did you use? If an aftermarket, as mentioned by @RobX-1 , they are known to have problems. I don't know how to measure if the pickup coil is working, maybe with a scope?
Carbb1
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Yes it's a aftermarket (Caltric) got it from ebay. I ohm tested it before I put in . Ohms read the same as the orignal.
The pickup coil has 2 wires. One lead has continuity to ground. The other lead (I assume is pos/+12volts) read nothing with the key in run and/or start position. So I'm guessing there is no voltage going to pickup coil. Where does the pickup coil energy/voltage come from?
The pickup coil has 2 wires. One lead has continuity to ground. The other lead (I assume is pos/+12volts) read nothing with the key in run and/or start position. So I'm guessing there is no voltage going to pickup coil. Where does the pickup coil energy/voltage come from?
RobX-1
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What I was recalling was those that just replaced the pickup coil; and when they wired it into the stator would get no spark. Once they swapped the wires on the pickup coil to the stator, all was good. If your stator and pickup coil came as a whole assembly, one would think this would not be the case but then again, it is an aftermarket part so does its wires need to be swapped 

Mooseman
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Do you mean the PICKUP or IGNITION coil? The pickup coil should not have any going to ground (neither should the stator). If there is, that's your problem, the pickup is shorted to ground.The pickup coil has 2 wires. One lead has continuity to ground. The other lead (I assume is pos/+12volts) read nothing with the key in run and/or start position. So I'm guessing there is no voltage going to pickup coil. Where does the pickup coil energy/voltage come from?
I don't have the manual for your sled but looking at the schematics on my 2010 RS GT, the positive to the coils is constant on with key on and the negatives are controlled by the ECU as the triggers. They might be showing ground if the ECU is not seeing the RPM from the pickup coil and thus, not triggering. Maybe the wires from the pickup are backwards as mentioned.
Carbb1
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Tried reversing wires, no luck. So I looked up what the output was for pickup coil. Its suppose to be 0.3v to 0.5v and I was only getting 0.2v. Someone said to check gap of the coil. Long story short, the gap was to big because the aftermark coil is smaller in size than the orginal.(Thats Aftermark). Waiting on new coil.
thrasher
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I would now try replacing the E.C.U.,. If you have a someone you know has the same type of sled, try their E.C.U. first to see if it works. I bought a used E.C.U. from Barn of Parts and it solved my issues.
Carbb1
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Ok first of all. A big THANKS for everyones help. Got the new pickup coil and some new plugs(just for the hell of it) installed. Tested the output voltage from the pickup coil and was getting 0.6 to 0.9 AC. It fired right up on the first turn of the the Key.
THANK YOU EVERYONE
THANK YOU EVERYONE
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