'06 RTX shock settings

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TY 4 Stroke Master
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Menasha, WI
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Snowmobile
'17 Sidewinder LTX-LE
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mstahl88
I bought my sled used and never have adjusted anything until this last week. I only adjusted the mono shock in the rear, though. It is now at one slot away from the stiffest setting. I'm a big guy and weigh about 215# without all my snow gear. My father had it before me and he maybe weighed 180 #. The thing really could use an adjustment to make it corner a little better. I feel like it should dig in a little more in the front. I have 6" doolies on and the skis still seem to "float" across the top of the snow, rather than hooking up allowing faster cornering. I have a little ski lift, but not frequent. Does anyone know what I should have the front fox float shocks set at? I know when my Dad had it, someone helped him set it up to his stature. I'm wondering if I should be adding more air or taking some out of the front shocks. Also, what should the other shock, transfer rod, etc. be set at for a guy my size. I think the mono seems ok at the 2nd stiffest slot I have it set in now. Is there something else I should be adjusting too?
 
i'm 195, and have the fox floats up front at 50-55psi--huge difference in cornering from 70psi my dealer set it up at.

I want to adjust my transfer rod to set more weight up front, but am clueless how to do so... maybe someone can point me in the right directions of instructions/pics? :)
 
set up

Thanks. I'll try the fronts @ 50-55 psi then. Anyone else have input?
 
I have the same sled and I a, about 190 lbs without gear. When I first rode the sled it was WAY TO TIPPY and unstable in the corners. I personally found that tightening up the limiter strap 2nd to tightest hole, fox floats around 45-48 psi, the trasfer rod to max trasfer (i think its max) or to make more weight to the front ski's, and the rebound dampining at medium setting. I personaly found that even with the fox floats at 50 -55 it seems more tippy. Just make sure the bars that connect to your skis are parellel to the ground it makes a big differance. I ride pretty agressive...not as careless and crazy as i used to but I had 10" woody carbides and they were ok. The steering was very heavy and it pushed a bit. This year I went with bergstroms 8" triple points with his shims and ski savers and it has made a nite and day differance. I hope this helps
 
which bar?

T.P. said:
I have the same sled and I a, about 190 lbs without gear. When I first rode the sled it was WAY TO TIPPY and unstable in the corners. I personally found that tightening up the limiter strap 2nd to tightest hole, fox floats around 45-48 psi, the trasfer rod to max trasfer (i think its max) or to make more weight to the front ski's, and the rebound dampining at medium setting. I personaly found that even with the fox floats at 50 -55 it seems more tippy. Just make sure the bars that connect to your skis are parellel to the ground it makes a big differance. I ride pretty agressive...not as careless and crazy as i used to but I had 10" woody carbides and they were ok. The steering was very heavy and it pushed a bit. This year I went with bergstroms 8" triple points with his shims and ski savers and it has made a nite and day differance. I hope this helps

Which bars are you referring to that must be parallel with the ground? A arms, spindle, sway bar?
 
If you want more ski pressure under accleration turn your transfer rod in... If that doesnt help.. pull ur limiter strap up a hole.
 
fox shocks

Not sure if my fox pump gauge/tool is accurate, but it read over 80 psi when I checked? I let air out to 50, but the front seemed to drop significantly. It looked way to low, so I went up to 70. It still looked low, but did turn better. Now the rear end seemed a little light. It fishtailed a lot. Snow was a tad mushy, though. I think I might have to pump a little more in & try turning the rod in?
 
air

make sure you are checking air psi with front end off the ground and that goes for putting air in them too.
 
Re: air

slow x 2 said:
make sure you are checking air psi with front end off the ground and that goes for putting air in them too.

I wondered about that! Thought it would only make sense if it was "under load." Guess I was wrong. Thanks for the info. Guess I need to start over. :o|
 
And if you want to rail corners without experimenting with shims, skis, carbides etc etc. Buy snowtrackers!! F1 handling in a bolt on application. 200.00 from royal distributing.. Best add on for my apex by far!!
 
transfer rod

Having a hard time figuring out the control rod. I put the special wrench on it. The end of the rod body (not the nut) and it shows its at 1 notch away from standard toward minimum. Should I still try turning it in? It seems I would be sending it even more minimum if turning in? I assume clockwise turns it in?
 
rod adjustment

Still hoping for input.
 
Still struggling with this. Just turned the nut all of the way in. So, that makes the wrench tool scale read min. Anybody??
 
Transfer

Ttt.
 
Turning the transfer rod in sets for minimum transfer, you are correct.

You'll get a ton of suggestions and no two sled handle the same way because there are too many variables. If your skis feel light I would tighten the limiter strap up one hole. This should increase the pressure on your skis.

I took the suggestion that everyone else on here had and reduced the PSI in my shocks down to the 55-60 range. That got rid of my inside ski lift, but at the expense of having more body roll in the sled going through corners which in some ways was worse than having ski lift. I was always fighting the sled through a corner so I increased the pressure back up to the 75-80 range. I get a little lift but it's really predictable.

My suggestion for you would be to set the transfer in the middle, tighten up one hole on the limiter strap, and set your shocks to 75. From there you can determine if you have enough ski pressure. If you do, great. If you don't, you can go tighter on strap or adjust the transfer. The transfer will have some impact on ski pressure in a neutral setting, but it's more about when the suspension is under load, i.e. the sled won't turn when you're on the gas = too much transfer.
 


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