Firecat_Freak
Pro
Well I got the clamps pulled off tonight, and donuts were completely shot. The flanges were very beat up too, so planning on changing the y pipes. I took the flex pipes off to and they were fine. My problem is I can't get the y pipes out because the will not move in the muffler. I have tried heat, pb blaster, a BFH. It won't budge. I started to cut the y pipes off so I can get everything out of the sled, but wheel is too small. Guess tomorrow is another day and will have to accept defeat for tonight. Once I get the muffler with a couple inches of y pipe still stuck in it I'll have to try more heat and blaster. Not sure what else to do?


thor452
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the way to get them apart is to leave the y pipes connected in front with the allen head bolts loose the clamps and everything that holds in the silencer if you have heat put it to the connections and then hit silencer with large dead blow / rubber mallet untill it comes out the back for the sled. it is a b@#%$# but it will come appart. good luck.
Firecat_Freak
Pro
Yeah, we tried that. Put a 2X4 in front to span the muffler, and went to town. No go.
We didn't really see what those front bolts did. Looks like they just thread into the bracket that is riveted to the tunnel? We tried leaving them im and banging on the muffler as well. It looked to us that the y-pipes need to go forward, then the rear of them tilted down to clear that bracket.
Are we missing something?
Another thought I had was to drill out the 10 rivets that hold that bracket to the tunnel and try and get the whole works out. But we weren't sure if the 4-pipes would clear trying to pull it out as an assembly..........
Arg......
We didn't really see what those front bolts did. Looks like they just thread into the bracket that is riveted to the tunnel? We tried leaving them im and banging on the muffler as well. It looked to us that the y-pipes need to go forward, then the rear of them tilted down to clear that bracket.
Are we missing something?
Another thought I had was to drill out the 10 rivets that hold that bracket to the tunnel and try and get the whole works out. But we weren't sure if the 4-pipes would clear trying to pull it out as an assembly..........
Arg......

Firecat_Freak
Pro
I emailed ulmer, he's not going up be at the show.
stevieu1
Expert
when i did mine ,i drilled out the rivets,cut both y-pipes from the muffler end,then removed the muffler and pipe,and put vice grips on the pieces of the y-pipes that were left in the muffler pipe and wiggled and sprayed and heated until they came out.took about an hour,and i was sore after. make sure you have help,it's a bitch. P.S. use 10mm stainless bolt and nut to put the bracket back on to make it easier next time. i'm not convinced the copper donuts will last forever 

Firecat_Freak
Pro
stevieu1 said:when i did mine ,i drilled out the rivets,cut both y-pipes from the muffler end,then removed the muffler and pipe,and put vice grips on the pieces of the y-pipes that were left in the muffler pipe and wiggled and sprayed and heated until they came out.took about an hour,and i was sore after. make sure you have help,it's a bitch. P.S. use 10mm stainless bolt and nut to put the bracket back on to make it easier next time. i'm not convinced the copper donuts will last forever![]()
Sounds like I'm going to need to do the same thing. Bought some new 4" cutt off wheels during lunch. Will either hit it up tonight or tomorrow night.
Any issues with the head of the bolt or nut with interfernce issues with either the gas tank or the exhaust pipes?


thor452
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Y pipes have to come foreward to come off from the sled but have to be loose from silencerif you have the cut off wheeles cut them near the back so you can then pull the muffler easier to get appart on the bench if you are going to replace the y pipes anyway. the allen cap screws hold the front on the l brackets that they sit on.if you cut the pipes you wont have to drill out the brackets in front if you already hace flex pipes out you will have room to bring y pipes foreward to get them off.
stevieu1
Expert
Iground the sharp edges off tje bolts stuck some foam rubber over the bolt heads just in case
Firecat_Freak
Pro
Someone must have been here before, the bolts that were closest to r e motor for the bracket were regular cap bolts and the bolts for the back clamps had the Allen head bolts.thor452 said:Y pipes have to come foreward to come off from the sled but have to be loose from silencerif you have the cut off wheeles cut them near the back so you can then pull the muffler easier to get appart on the bench if you are going to replace the y pipes anyway. the allen cap screws hold the front on the l brackets that they sit on.if you cut the pipes you wont have to drill out the brackets in front if you already hace flex pipes out you will have room to bring y pipes foreward to get them off.


thor452
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yep that is not the stock bolts but that is a good thing those stock bolts never come out.
Firecat_Freak
Pro
Got everything out last night, without drilling the rivets. Still havn't gotten the y-pipe chunks out of the muffler yet. Just letting it soak with pb blaster before i tear into that.
I have everything ordered and on it's way. Should the new copper gaskets go on dry or with some copper rtv?
Also, should I assume order of reassembly will be y-pipe, flex pipe, then muffler assembly? Thanks.
I have everything ordered and on it's way. Should the new copper gaskets go on dry or with some copper rtv?
Also, should I assume order of reassembly will be y-pipe, flex pipe, then muffler assembly? Thanks.


thor452
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correct on the order of opperations.the rtv is up to you some will say yes others will say dry should work dry just fine.
Firecat_Freak
Pro
While i'm in this project, I noticed that the forward exhaust bracket has some smoken rivets. I was going to replace these, but of course I don't have the fancy yamaha rivets on hand. I've noticed the yamaha rivets on this machine are really short on the back side for clearance fits.
Should I worry about these rivets? I do have some bigger headed steel rivets that may work, but leave more material on the back side. I wouldn't want that rubbing on the new y-pipe.
Also, I have new exhaust gasket sleeves for the y-pipe/muffler connection. Should these be lubbed with something, so I can get these apart in the future unlike now?
Thanks.
Should I worry about these rivets? I do have some bigger headed steel rivets that may work, but leave more material on the back side. I wouldn't want that rubbing on the new y-pipe.
Also, I have new exhaust gasket sleeves for the y-pipe/muffler connection. Should these be lubbed with something, so I can get these apart in the future unlike now?
Thanks.
THKSNOW
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Firecat_Freak said:Well I got the clamps pulled off tonight, and donuts were completely shot. The flanges were very beat up too, so planning on changing the y pipes. I took the flex pipes off to and they were fine.
My Flex Pipes all looked real good when I did my donuts. I'm not sure why, but I decided to cover the end of each one with my hand and blow into the other end. 3 held the air, the 4th one had a hairline crack and the air was blowing out the side of the ribbed area. I was glad I checked them good before I put it all back together.
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