06 Yamaha apex gt oil Change

gytrapex

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06 yamhah apex gt
this is the first time ever doing a oil change on my apex how do you do it do u have to dran the block and how do you put the oil back in to the block and what is the plug on top of the motor and what would be the best oil to use u was going to go with full synthetic yamalube is that good oil to go with or no
 
Pull off the right side panel and under panel. Drain oil tank with the plug under the tank. Pull off cover underneath sled and drain the block. To add oil you need to unplug the the cap on top of the side tank then unscrew the cap and add it there. To change the oil filter you need to remove the ceiling, light pod, air box, battery and battery bracket. Then you find the oil filter. Tough the first time but easy after.
 
I buy the full synthetic oil change kit from yamaha that includes 4 quarts of oil, oil filter and drain plug gasket.
 
Ok were is the plug to brain block and with the block haveing no oil in it how dose the oil get back in the block dose the oil tank pump it in the block if it dose will it hurt it running with with no oil in the block till oil pump in there
I buy the full synthetic oil change kit from yamaha that includes 4 quarts of oil, oil filter and drain plug gasket.
 
Ok the plug to drain block is inside the black door under your motor ...it has a round head ...just by filling the tank with oil will pump the oil back to put oil in the block. no harm. you would be best to get the owners manual ...free from yamaha site ..it shows you how there and will help with the procedure.
 
If you have a plastic skid plate, it has to come off to access the cover plate that covers your oil pan. If you just have a cover plate, take it off and you will see your oil pan bolt. I suspect that the plug that you are talking about on top of the motor, goes to the oil gallery, but nobody uses it because it is difficult to add oil there, and it apparently is not necessary. Everybody adds oil to the tank, 2.1 U.S. quarts, start the motor and run it for a few minutes(at least till the operating temp light goes out), then top up the tank with at least another U.S. quart or so depending if you changed filter, until dipstick shows full. Remember to check oil without screwing dipstick in.
 
yamalube is good enough oil but very expensive for what you are getting but that is a whole other thread in fact prolly 5 threads with well over 400 posts between them. I run mobil 1 fwiw
 
Mobile 1 0w40 is around $8 a quart. It works out to a little over $10 a quart for the full synthetic in the kit. I'm over 10,000 miles so why change.
 
While you are at it, I would drain and replace the chaincase oil if it hasn't been done in a while. Drain plug is accessed on inside of tunnel beside track, right behind the chaincase. 8oz or 250ml of chain/gear oil, I use Amsoil chain/gear oil.
First oil change can be a head scratcher, but gets easier after that.
 
I just don't want to pay a yamaha shop all that money to do it if I can do it my self and make it cheep
While you are at it, I would drain and replace the chaincase oil if it hasn't been done in a while. Drain plug is accessed on inside of tunnel beside track, right behind the chaincase. 8oz or 250ml of chain/gear oil, I use Amsoil chain/gear oil.
First oil change can be a head scratcher, but gets easier after that.
 
It helps to warm the motor up before draining too- flows out easier. Another vote for Mobil 1 0W40 European Formula, although this will be my first year with it I have read that it is better for really cold starts.
 


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