supercat
Extreme
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2006
- Messages
- 83
so is it as simple as putting spring on a stationary bar and bending them open?
snowbeast
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2003
- Messages
- 5,498
- Age
- 69
- Location
- E waterboro,maine
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2015 apex xtx traded for a 2017 sidewinder L-tx-le
- yes
- YOUTUBE
- yes
Hey rex sense you have your track and drivers changed out,can you remember if it now feels faster than with the stock ripsaw you got it with,as i had that set up on my 06 and really liked it,and now i am back to tightening up my track alot more than before,plus it now feels way slower than it was with the 22 top that came stock,but like you stated the 22 top was an after thought from yamaha,as they never changed the clutching for the big gear change,if you think about it,my attak came w/23 top and had the white secondary spring,so even for that they changed the secondary spring,now my book that came with the rtx states it has 24 top 38 bottom,now that is what the apex er and gt comes with for 07 my 06 rtx has 24 top and it rips,but does not rev to 11,200 like my now 07 rtx with the 22,so all i changed was the 23 on top and now my clutching runs around 10,500 stock clutching sometimes it runs up to 10,700,so long story i will try and change out track and drivers again,to let stuff run freely again.
Love mine BIG TIME!! I am 180lbs and can just SMOKE any where on this sled!! 1,500 miles on it!!
Skydog
Skydog
rxmaninblack
Extreme
I have over 2000 mi on my RTX. I don't have any issues with Ice build up. I weigh 220 plus saddle bags. I just came back from a week long trip in Gaspe. 1100 mi. 14 miles to the gallon U.S. I run my torsion springs on Med. front shocks at 55psi. I shimmed the skis I really think 5.7 pilots will be my next investment.
RTX
I have to agree sounds like we're riding two different sleds. I really don't have an issue with ice build up (I don't think I give it a chance as it's always getting knocked out of the tunnel from roosting wheelies and catching air)! I'm serious I don't ever seem to have much ice build up at all??? Again, I go around 240 and have everything set on full soft on the rear suspension and am very happy with the ride for the most part. I can gaurantee it's being put through the paces.
On the flip side - yours seems to run very well with your indicated top speeds. Mine unfortunately doesn't pull near the speeds your posting. I get a pretty consitent high 13 - 14mpg about a mile less per gallon then the attack I drove last year.
XCR5
I have to agree sounds like we're riding two different sleds. I really don't have an issue with ice build up (I don't think I give it a chance as it's always getting knocked out of the tunnel from roosting wheelies and catching air)! I'm serious I don't ever seem to have much ice build up at all??? Again, I go around 240 and have everything set on full soft on the rear suspension and am very happy with the ride for the most part. I can gaurantee it's being put through the paces.
On the flip side - yours seems to run very well with your indicated top speeds. Mine unfortunately doesn't pull near the speeds your posting. I get a pretty consitent high 13 - 14mpg about a mile less per gallon then the attack I drove last year.
XCR5
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
mnmsnowbeast said:Hey rex sense you have your track and drivers changed out,can you remember if it now feels faster than with the stock ripsaw you got it with,as i had that set up on my 06 and really liked it,and now i am back to tightening up my track alot more than before,plus it now feels way slower than it was with the 22 top that came stock,but like you stated the 22 top was an after thought from yamaha,as they never changed the clutching for the big gear change,if you think about it,my attak came w/23 top and had the white secondary spring,so even for that they changed the secondary spring,now my book that came with the rtx states it has 24 top 38 bottom,now that is what the apex er and gt comes with for 07 my 06 rtx has 24 top and it rips,but does not rev to 11,200 like my now 07 rtx with the 22,so all i changed was the 23 on top and now my clutching runs around 10,500 stock clutching sometimes it runs up to 10,700,so long story i will try and change out track and drivers again,to let stuff run freely again.
I'm sorry but I really can't help with your Q's. I never rode it with the stock ripsaw so I can't compare.
In reality I don't do lake racing or anything so I don't have a good comparison speed wise before and after the extroverts either. I guess it seems similar other than now it rolls better at low speeds and the hyfax wear is more uniform.
It makes sense what you're saying about the gearing and I'm not surprised that the rpms came down with the gear change. Mine does rev too high at higher speeds IMO, just like the rest of the 07 RTX's.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
Re: RTX
The time when the ice builds up (with my sled and all of the other Apex's I ride with) is when there is decent snow dust and the temperatures are extremely cold - like in the mid -30°C range. It usually takes a very long day (or two) of riding at fairly high cruising speeds to get the maximum build up - typically 300-500 miles per day.
xcr5 said:I have to agree sounds like we're riding two different sleds. I really don't have an issue with ice build up (I don't think I give it a chance as it's always getting knocked out of the tunnel from roosting wheelies and catching air)! I'm serious I don't ever seem to have much ice build up at all??? Again, I go around 240 and have everything set on full soft on the rear suspension and am very happy with the ride for the most part. I can gaurantee it's being put through the paces.
On the flip side - yours seems to run very well with your indicated top speeds. Mine unfortunately doesn't pull near the speeds your posting. I get a pretty consitent high 13 - 14mpg about a mile less per gallon then the attack I drove last year.
XCR5
The time when the ice builds up (with my sled and all of the other Apex's I ride with) is when there is decent snow dust and the temperatures are extremely cold - like in the mid -30°C range. It usually takes a very long day (or two) of riding at fairly high cruising speeds to get the maximum build up - typically 300-500 miles per day.
NY_Nytro
TY 4 Stroke Master
Re: RTX
Nothing to do with the skid question but also what I notice in those same conditions as you mention Rex is that the ice build-up eventually will partially reduce or completely block the amount of snow that gets thrown on the front heat exchanger. The top the tunnel gets so packed that any snow carried on the track gets blocked before it reaches the front. The first day in extreme cold is usually OK but the second day and so on is where the problem shows itself. My temp gauge will show higher than normal coolant temps and it will rise a lot quicker than it noramlly does even when its extremely cold and on hardpack where the fine snow dust will do an acceptable job cooling the front exchanger it no longer can because it gets blocked by the ice build-up. The occasional heated storage overnight at hotels is great way to getting back to day 1 status.
ReX said:xcr5 said:I have to agree sounds like we're riding two different sleds. I really don't have an issue with ice build up (I don't think I give it a chance as it's always getting knocked out of the tunnel from roosting wheelies and catching air)! I'm serious I don't ever seem to have much ice build up at all??? Again, I go around 240 and have everything set on full soft on the rear suspension and am very happy with the ride for the most part. I can gaurantee it's being put through the paces.
On the flip side - yours seems to run very well with your indicated top speeds. Mine unfortunately doesn't pull near the speeds your posting. I get a pretty consitent high 13 - 14mpg about a mile less per gallon then the attack I drove last year.
XCR5
The time when the ice builds up (with my sled and all of the other Apex's I ride with) is when there is decent snow dust and the temperatures are extremely cold - like in the mid -30°C range. It usually takes a very long day (or two) of riding at fairly high cruising speeds to get the maximum build up - typically 300-500 miles per day.
Nothing to do with the skid question but also what I notice in those same conditions as you mention Rex is that the ice build-up eventually will partially reduce or completely block the amount of snow that gets thrown on the front heat exchanger. The top the tunnel gets so packed that any snow carried on the track gets blocked before it reaches the front. The first day in extreme cold is usually OK but the second day and so on is where the problem shows itself. My temp gauge will show higher than normal coolant temps and it will rise a lot quicker than it noramlly does even when its extremely cold and on hardpack where the fine snow dust will do an acceptable job cooling the front exchanger it no longer can because it gets blocked by the ice build-up. The occasional heated storage overnight at hotels is great way to getting back to day 1 status.
peterk
Newbie
My impression of riding a couple of buddies APEX RTXs (I ride a Rev X for reference).
Engine - can't say enough, torque, power, sound.
Rear suspension. BIG disappointment. The Yamaha suspension department needs to lay off the crack on suspension tuning day. How they created a skid that is bad in stutters and bottoms at the sight of a big bump is beyond me. We opened up and revalved the rear shocks (thanks again for no specs on the shocks Yamaha!). What a joke - I've rebuilt hundreds of Doo and Cat shocks and never seen anything so lame. $150 in pistons and valves and the rear skid is in the ballpark with my Rev.
Front end. Decent, but does not have the straightline precision of my sled. I think we'll get it there, but again stock a little way from perfect.
Weight. Once the skid was under control not a big deal, until you get it really stuck.
Overall I'm impressed with what is there to work with, but out of the box I expected more.
Engine - can't say enough, torque, power, sound.
Rear suspension. BIG disappointment. The Yamaha suspension department needs to lay off the crack on suspension tuning day. How they created a skid that is bad in stutters and bottoms at the sight of a big bump is beyond me. We opened up and revalved the rear shocks (thanks again for no specs on the shocks Yamaha!). What a joke - I've rebuilt hundreds of Doo and Cat shocks and never seen anything so lame. $150 in pistons and valves and the rear skid is in the ballpark with my Rev.
Front end. Decent, but does not have the straightline precision of my sled. I think we'll get it there, but again stock a little way from perfect.
Weight. Once the skid was under control not a big deal, until you get it really stuck.
Overall I'm impressed with what is there to work with, but out of the box I expected more.
snowbeast
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2003
- Messages
- 5,498
- Age
- 69
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- E waterboro,maine
- Country
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- Snowmobile
- 2015 apex xtx traded for a 2017 sidewinder L-tx-le
- yes
- YOUTUBE
- yes
Are you talking the new 07 rtx ck rear skid,cause if you are i am not impressed either,my 06 mono would smoke this twin shock set up,ross from hygear said they have been pulling out there hair trying to get the valving in the shocks and the spring set up so you have some smoothness thru the stutters and some compliance thru the bigger bumps and the g-bump hits wont cripple your spine.peterk said:My impression of riding a couple of buddies APEX RTXs (I ride a Rev X for reference).
Engine - can't say enough, torque, power, sound.
Rear suspension. BIG disappointment. The Yamaha suspension department needs to lay off the crack on suspension tuning day. How they created a skid that is bad in stutters and bottoms at the sight of a big bump is beyond me. We opened up and revalved the rear shocks (thanks again for no specs on the shocks Yamaha!). What a joke - I've rebuilt hundreds of Doo and Cat shocks and never seen anything so lame. $150 in pistons and valves and the rear skid is in the ballpark with my Rev.
Front end. Decent, but does not have the straightline precision of my sled. I think we'll get it there, but again stock a little way from perfect.
Weight. Once the skid was under control not a big deal, until you get it really stuck.
Overall I'm impressed with what is there to work with, but out of the box I expected more.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
mnmsnowbeast said:Are you talking the new 07 rtx ck rear skid,cause if you are i am not impressed either,my 06 mono would smoke this twin shock set up,ross from hygear said they have been pulling out there hair trying to get the valving in the shocks and the spring set up so you have some smoothness thru the stutters and some compliance thru the bigger bumps and the g-bump hits wont cripple your spine.peterk said:My impression of riding a couple of buddies APEX RTXs (I ride a Rev X for reference).
Engine - can't say enough, torque, power, sound.
Rear suspension. BIG disappointment. The Yamaha suspension department needs to lay off the crack on suspension tuning day. How they created a skid that is bad in stutters and bottoms at the sight of a big bump is beyond me. We opened up and revalved the rear shocks (thanks again for no specs on the shocks Yamaha!). What a joke - I've rebuilt hundreds of Doo and Cat shocks and never seen anything so lame. $150 in pistons and valves and the rear skid is in the ballpark with my Rev.
Front end. Decent, but does not have the straightline precision of my sled. I think we'll get it there, but again stock a little way from perfect.
Weight. Once the skid was under control not a big deal, until you get it really stuck.
Overall I'm impressed with what is there to work with, but out of the box I expected more.
I don't see any reason it should be hard to set up this suspension. I agree Yamaha left a lot on the table as far as shocks and springs, but this skid is so similar to most other torsion skids out there it should be simple to set up. The only "feature" that just has to be dealt with is the friction in the rear couplers. Most torsion spring suspension (including Yamaha's newest suspensions) have an extra pivoting arm attached to the rear arm that takes out this friction. Another issue is a lack of different torsion springs to allow heavier riders to get the right ride height.
peterk, what sort of a valve stack are they using? To me it "feels" like a simple old fashioned pyramid setup, instead of a more progressive multi-stage setup (that can provide a softer ride on smaller bumps/lower speeds and still have good anti-bottoming control). I was thinking of redoing mine also. Will the fox tools hold the shock and charge it? How much nitrogen did you put in (psi)?
peterk
Newbie
mnmsnowbeast said:Are you talking the new 07 rtx ck rear skid,cause if you are i am not impressed either,my 06 mono would smoke this twin shock set up,ross from hygear said they have been pulling out there hair trying to get the valving in the shocks and the spring set up so you have some smoothness thru the stutters and some compliance thru the bigger bumps and the g-bump hits wont cripple your spine.
Yes, the 07 RTX.
peterk
Newbie
ReX said:I don't see any reason it should be hard to set up this suspension. I agree Yamaha left a lot on the table as far as shocks and springs, but this skid is so similar to most other torsion skids out there it should be simple to set up. The only "feature" that just has to be dealt with is the friction in the rear couplers. Most torsion spring suspension (including Yamaha's newest suspensions) have an extra pivoting arm attached to the rear arm that takes out this friction. Another issue is a lack of different torsion springs to allow heavier riders to get the right ride height.
peterk, what sort of a valve stack are they using? To me it "feels" like a simple old fashioned pyramid setup, instead of a more progressive multi-stage setup (that can provide a softer ride on smaller bumps/lower speeds and still have good anti-bottoming control). I was thinking of redoing mine also. Will the fox tools hold the shock and charge it? How much nitrogen did you put in (psi)?
You are correct - we applied my DOO knowledge and hit a setup pretty much right on.
Valve stacks are not progressive or a pyramid. Just a big fat pile of valves sitting on top of a piston with way too much bleed. I can see why Yamaha won't share the valving info - I'd be embarrased to if I had done it.
My Fox needle did the job. No need to hold these shocks other than in a vise from the base (bottoms are not removable like the Fox). Charge to 300 psi. Front shock has the POS circlip style cap that DOO uses. Can be a pain if the nitrogen gets past the IFP. Feel free to PM me if you need more info.
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