zigoapex1
Extreme
I got the sled a couple weeks ago and soon as i got it i was checking it out
and the weight transfer was set with no threads showing, the front shocks had 120 in one and the other had 90.also went to pull on the ski handles and it poped up in the air,no bolt in it.i put 100 miles on it noticed the slides are almost down to the wear line from the middle to the back bogie.
the track seems to be to loose also.if you pick up the back of the sled ,should the track sag off the slides about 2 inches?
THanks guyz
and the weight transfer was set with no threads showing, the front shocks had 120 in one and the other had 90.also went to pull on the ski handles and it poped up in the air,no bolt in it.i put 100 miles on it noticed the slides are almost down to the wear line from the middle to the back bogie.
the track seems to be to loose also.if you pick up the back of the sled ,should the track sag off the slides about 2 inches?
THanks guyz
Kevin Garceau
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
bring fox floats to 50 with skis off the ground
if hyfax is wearing fast track cant be that loose, if its not ratcheting, its probably not as loose as you think
I would be giving the dealer a call and kindly explaining what you found so far - maybe they will bring it in and have a diff mechanic go over it.
My RTX was HORRIBLE when I first picked it up, so much so I took it to a different dealer for proper set up and what a differnce.
if hyfax is wearing fast track cant be that loose, if its not ratcheting, its probably not as loose as you think
I would be giving the dealer a call and kindly explaining what you found so far - maybe they will bring it in and have a diff mechanic go over it.
My RTX was HORRIBLE when I first picked it up, so much so I took it to a different dealer for proper set up and what a differnce.
Blue Dave
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I am sure that like anything else, some dealers are much better than others at setting up the sled.
The "factory" settings for the front and rear suspension seem to be much different than most TY'ers have changed them to. However in defense of the factory, there can not be a "universal" setting that is going to work best for everybody.
I agree that they should be closer to what we all think the "average" user needs, but this is where a "good" dealer steps in and makes sure that the sled is set up for your weight, riding style, preference, etc.
My sled had handlebar / ski alignment issues and an empty coolant reservior which clearly are dealer set-up issues. I ended up fixing both issues myself.
Because I bought a sled off of the show room floor, all of the the front clickers had apparently been "clicked" by a lot of curious hands. In my opinion that also should have been checked and set to factory settings by the dealer.
The coolant glycol concentration being off the scale (100% ?) rather than the specified 60/40 is obviously a factory issue but you would think that our dealers should be aware of this problem.
The "factory" settings for the front and rear suspension seem to be much different than most TY'ers have changed them to. However in defense of the factory, there can not be a "universal" setting that is going to work best for everybody.
I agree that they should be closer to what we all think the "average" user needs, but this is where a "good" dealer steps in and makes sure that the sled is set up for your weight, riding style, preference, etc.
My sled had handlebar / ski alignment issues and an empty coolant reservior which clearly are dealer set-up issues. I ended up fixing both issues myself.
Because I bought a sled off of the show room floor, all of the the front clickers had apparently been "clicked" by a lot of curious hands. In my opinion that also should have been checked and set to factory settings by the dealer.
The coolant glycol concentration being off the scale (100% ?) rather than the specified 60/40 is obviously a factory issue but you would think that our dealers should be aware of this problem.
zigoapex1
Extreme
The track was ratcheting a couple times when i jumped on it and i dont have it studded.would a loose track make the slides wear uneven?
Blue Dave
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Zig,
For hyfax longevity and top speed I have always found that looser is better.
I run a very loose track. In the past if I would get some ratcheting (usually only under full power in deep snow) I will just tighten the track only enough to eliminate it.
By "uneven" do you mean right side to left side? Or do you mean from front to back (but the same on both sides) which is very common if you have not added optional wheel kits.
Please also keep in mind that without wheel kits the hyfax will always wear thinner in the same spots. However my experience has been that once they "wear in" in these areas they will then stay about the same for quite a while as long as you have adequate snow.
Add some wheels and ride worry free on about any surface within reason. Please also add your location to your profile (site rules).
For hyfax longevity and top speed I have always found that looser is better.
I run a very loose track. In the past if I would get some ratcheting (usually only under full power in deep snow) I will just tighten the track only enough to eliminate it.
By "uneven" do you mean right side to left side? Or do you mean from front to back (but the same on both sides) which is very common if you have not added optional wheel kits.
Please also keep in mind that without wheel kits the hyfax will always wear thinner in the same spots. However my experience has been that once they "wear in" in these areas they will then stay about the same for quite a while as long as you have adequate snow.
Add some wheels and ride worry free on about any surface within reason. Please also add your location to your profile (site rules).
mattsapex
Extreme
the dealer near me leaves it to you to adjust the track on a new sled when you bring it in for the first oil change is when they do the track that way it has some miles on it. the way it comes in the box is the way you buy it, its prolly the same at your dealer too! ALWAYS double check the dealer they are quick to get it out the door.
Bowhunter
Extreme
I bought a new rtx this year and I am happy with the skid set up, however I do find it a little tippy, when checking the fox pressure should the front be lifted off the ground? Maybe need a heavier stablizer bar?
Yamaholic22
Pro
Slides always wear quickly when new, even in good conditions. Then after the initial set in and having some heat cycles on them, they basically stop wearing if you are riding in good conditions. The problem most people have is that they see them wearing like crazy at first and think they need to change them, only to find that the new ones wear down to the same point very quickly. Get them nice and hot on an ice/hardpack surface, then pull off in the powder and let them get nice and cool and they wont wear anymore.
