I am in the process of trying to make some needed upgrades to my 07 rtx. I had the rear shocks revalved along with a heavier front spring to help control the bottoming. I bought extroverts and a fully clipped track to control the track ratcheting. As long as I was buying a new track I got the 136" rail and tunnel extensions. I have 150mi on this machine and the hyfax is within a 1/6" at the bend and about the same at mid rail. When I pulled the skid I noticed the front pivot bushing was broken. Pretty discusted at this point with the quality and engineering of the rear suspension of this machine.
1) looking for suggestions for additional wheels or larger wheels at the rail bend and another set mid rail.
2) Need to find some pivot bushings other than OEM these thing look to be made out of pressed fiber or something.
3) do the rails need to be trimmed to clear the extrovert drivers?
1) looking for suggestions for additional wheels or larger wheels at the rail bend and another set mid rail.
2) Need to find some pivot bushings other than OEM these thing look to be made out of pressed fiber or something.
3) do the rails need to be trimmed to clear the extrovert drivers?
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
Those front upper pivot bushings are useless. I've done everything you have (except the 136" extension) plus had custom oilite bushings machined for the top of the front pivot arm.
This time I'm trying 135mm Skidoo wheels in the front 4 positions (keeping the 130mm Yamaha wheels in the optional rear positions since I already have a cracked slide rail because of them). If you look at the on-line fische you'll see the optional wheels. They mount the same way the monoshock inner wheels mount and this leads to cracked rails. Yamaha does not have rail reinforcements available for the RTX (they do for the Monoshocks).
The rail caps do need to be trimmed by about 1/4" to clear the extroverts. Stock they will "just" touch if you compress the front of the skid the right amount (I spent a fair bit of time testing it out and making sure mine don't touch in the end).
Another thing you should do (if you want durability) is drill an extra hole so you can use 2 nuts and bolts to hold the rail caps in place. Without that, the rivet and cap becomes very loose very quickly.
One final issue you might have one day is the chaincase might start leaking oil. Yamaha has an updated chaincase cover with improved geometry that will hold the seal in place properly.
I still consider these great sleds once all of the custom upgrades are done, but Yamaha needs to start shipping sleds ready to ride like some of the competition is doing (or at least trying to do) these days.
This time I'm trying 135mm Skidoo wheels in the front 4 positions (keeping the 130mm Yamaha wheels in the optional rear positions since I already have a cracked slide rail because of them). If you look at the on-line fische you'll see the optional wheels. They mount the same way the monoshock inner wheels mount and this leads to cracked rails. Yamaha does not have rail reinforcements available for the RTX (they do for the Monoshocks).
The rail caps do need to be trimmed by about 1/4" to clear the extroverts. Stock they will "just" touch if you compress the front of the skid the right amount (I spent a fair bit of time testing it out and making sure mine don't touch in the end).
Another thing you should do (if you want durability) is drill an extra hole so you can use 2 nuts and bolts to hold the rail caps in place. Without that, the rivet and cap becomes very loose very quickly.
One final issue you might have one day is the chaincase might start leaking oil. Yamaha has an updated chaincase cover with improved geometry that will hold the seal in place properly.
I still consider these great sleds once all of the custom upgrades are done, but Yamaha needs to start shipping sleds ready to ride like some of the competition is doing (or at least trying to do) these days.
Any other ideas for mounts for a rear set of wheels that havent led to cracked rails.
