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07 VK Pro Drive Sprocket Alignment

John B

Newbie
Joined
Oct 4, 2016
Messages
23
Age
50
Location
Watertown, MN
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2007 RS Viking Professional
Picked up a used 2007 VK Pro with 1700 miles, everything appeared in order until I went to drain the chaincase. I could barely get the drain plug out because the bolt was hitting the drive sprocket.

This seemed odd, so when I took a closer look at the drive sprocket it has shifted to the right about 1".

I assume the only way to fix this would be to remove the entire shaft and have the sprocket pressed back on?
I am not even sure if I could remove the shaft, since it there is only about 1/2" of clearance.

The rest of the sprockets are in alignment. I think I might just use it as is for now, unless it starts causing issues or uneven wear. Anyone have any other suggestions or thoughts?

Thanks in advance..
-John

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You have to remove your chaincase in order to remove driveshaft, even if the sprocket didn't drift you would still have to remove the chaincase. take lots of pics if you're doing it yourself. a lot of parts due to the low range trans. Might want to check with your local dealer as the 07 were the first year with the low range transmission and they changed the gear ratios. best of luck!
 
Even after removing the chaincase I wonder if I can even get the shaft out because the cog shifted over so far. I assume you need more than 1/2" of clearance to free the shaft from the clutch side bearing. I might just use it as is for awhile...
 
Interesting, might have to give something like that a try. Thanks!
 
For the record I too just recently bought a used 2007 vk with 1800 miles on it from a dealer. Identical issue to the picture you posted. Discovered it only while trying to remove chain case bolt to drain oil. Called the dealer and he told me after talking to his mechanic that after being in business for over 20 years as a yamaha dealer they had never heard or seen of such an issue. I reminded him where he could actually find one to see. I then asked him if he would check with yamaha for a bulletin on this. He told me to drive it like this ???? Basically he just doesn't want to pay to fix it. Now this is a used machine and understandably you are between a rock and a hard place if you get stuck with this issue. For now I will drive it like this as I want to ride not fix. Will not drive forever before I will pull it apart and address it. I have in the past plenty of experience with removing and pressing drive cogs onto shafts. So far I really love this sled. Was just really surprised to see something like this on a quality yamaha product. Thanks for that initial picture... it showed me that I was not alone on this... and oh yes strike 3 for the dealer. Recommend to anyone buying one of these used to check for this issue before buying. This is not the end of the world and I still am extremely impressed with this machine.
 
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I had the same problem when I bought mine, it's a 2010. I cut some maple shims and shimmed it back into place, I also placed a hair drier in there to warm things up to more then room temp. Started out sketchy because I didn't want to put too much side pressure on the tunnel and chain case, but once it started moving it slipped right over. If I notice it moving again I will get the axle locking collars from WAHL Bros Racing and never have to think about it again.
02-570ATN.jpg

Also check your track alignment onto your skid frame. I had to beat all of my other drivers over about a 1/4" to the chain case to get the track aligned. My track was almost rubbing the PTO side of the tunnel and the track clips where rubbing on the mag side of the rails at the tips.
 
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I had the same problem when I bought mine, it's a 2010. I cut some maple shims and shimmed it back into place, I also placed a hair drier in there to warm things up to more then room temp. Started out sketchy because I didn't want to put too much side pressure on the tunnel and chain case, but once it started moving it slipped right over. If I notice it moving again I will get the axle locking collars from WAHL Bros Racing and never have to think about it again.
02-570ATN.jpg

Also check your track alignment onto your skid frame. I had to beat all of my other drivers over about a 1/4" to the chain case to get the track aligned. My track was almost rubbing the PTO side of the tunnel and the track clips where rubbing on the mag side of the rails at the tips.
Thanks for the tip.... has it moved back any?
 
Thanks for the tip.... has it moved back any?

Checked it out last night, no noticeable movement in about 3500 (hard)km. When I bought the machine (second hand 9000km) the mag side rail was broken right where the front pivot arm bolt goes through. The whole front section of the rail was up into the driver, held in place on machine by the slider, with that driver having the worst misalignment At first I thought it was that section of rail that jammed up into them and messed everything up. But I don't think it was that, reason being is the only time that broken section would move forward into the driver was when the machine was in reverse so it wouldn't be a hard impact, and that wouldn't explain the misalignment of the other drivers. What I think it is, especially for those outside drivers, is they do not have the steel locking collar on them and they are prone to walking sideways.

Sorry for the jack!
 
Thanks for the update. I too would like to know why it moved. Guess it will remain a mystery.
Nice to see that it hasn't moved back on you. I will get to work on mine soon and will give an update then. Appreciate your help.
 
I have a 2007 vk and had the same thing happen to me. I tried all the things noted here and finally had to take the hole thing apart and bring the main shaft to the dealer and have all the sprockets put in proper alignement and he added a welding tack to the first one. Note that the transmission is complicated to put back in place take lots of pictures.
 
I have a 2007 vk and had the same thing happen to me. I tried all the things noted here and finally had to take the hole thing apart and bring the main shaft to the dealer and have all the sprockets put in proper alignement and he added a welding tack to the first one. Note that the transmission is complicated to put back in place take lots of pictures.
Yes it looks like I will shortly be doing the same in the off season... thanks for the reply.
 
Just finished removing drive sprocket shaft... decided to go through the whole sled for maintenance reasons and to fix or realign the sprockets on the track drive shaft. Ended up using a porta power between the tunnel and the plastic sprockets. Worked surprisingly well. Could not have gotten the shaft off the tunnel without moving the misaligned sprockets first. Insert the duckbill spreader between the sprocket and the tunnel.... pump it until it gets firm but do not over do it...until sprocket is cocked slightly because you are pushing only on one side of sprocket... Release the hydraulic pressure...then rotate the sprocket shaft 180 degrees and repeat on the opposite side without changing the position of the porta power. Do this a couple of times and the sprocket will walk back into position. Hope this helps anyone else with this issue.
 
Just finished removing drive sprocket shaft... decided to go through the whole sled for maintenance reasons and to fix or realign the sprockets on the track drive shaft. Ended up using a porta power between the tunnel and the plastic sprockets. Worked surprisingly well. Could not have gotten the shaft off the tunnel without moving the misaligned sprockets first. Insert the duckbill spreader between the sprocket and the tunnel.... pump it until it gets firm but do not over do it...until sprocket is cocked slightly because you are pushing only on one side of sprocket... Release the hydraulic pressure...then rotate the sprocket shaft 180 degrees and repeat on the opposite side without changing the position of the porta power. Do this a couple of times and the sprocket will walk back into position. Hope this helps anyone else with this issue.
UPDATE... not one of the drive sprockets was in its proper position??? I can only assume a very large chunk of ice went through and possibly pushed them over. I was driving it like this for some time. Glad I took it right apart.
 
For the record I too just recently bought a used 2007 vk with 1800 miles on it from a dealer. Identical issue to the picture you posted. Discovered it only while trying to remove chain case bolt to drain oil. Called the dealer and he told me after talking to his mechanic that after being in business for over 20 years as a yamaha dealer they had never heard or seen of such an issue. I reminded him where he could actually find one to see. I then asked him if he would check with yamaha for a bulletin on this. He told me to drive it like this ???? Basically he just doesn't want to pay to fix it. Now this is a used machine and understandably you are between a rock and a hard place if you get stuck with this issue. For now I will drive it like this as I want to ride not fix. Will not drive forever before I will pull it apart and address it. I have in the past plenty of experience with removing and pressing drive cogs onto shafts. So far I really love this sled. Was just really surprised to see something like this on a quality yamaha product. Thanks for that initial picture... it showed me that I was not alone on this... and oh yes strike 3 for the dealer. Recommend to anyone buying one of these used to check for this issue before buying. This is not the end of the world and I still am extremely impressed with this machine.
Mine as the same issue, I think, i already changed the bearing 4 years ago on left side and it was like this , now i have to do it again because i put too much tension on the track. I'm pulling it appart to fix it and notice that it is still shifted 3/4 inch again. Probably going to change the sprocket and put a new one and try to fix it tighter to the shaft. sometimes dealers have selective memory!
 


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