Rotor c clip issue

[HUS457]

Hey guys, been a while since I was on here. Getting the sled ready for the season and I’m running into a issue getting the calliper & rotor back on. I removed them to repack the brake side drive shaft bearing. Now, after reassembling everything the rotor isn’t going on the driveshaft deep enough to completely reveal the grove for the c clip to snap into. Everything appears normal, but the rotor is covering 1/2 of the c clip grove.
Few facts;
I repackaged the bearing, but didn’t remove it from the calliper. It looks to be fully seated in the race
Pads in or out makes no difference, the rotor is in the same spot
Without the calliper on, the rotor moves free on the driveshaft & deeper on the shaft to reveal the c clip grove,
All surfaces appear clean, calliper to tunnel, bearing to shaft, inner face of the rotor where it goes on the shaft
the inner hub of the rotor does seem to contact the bearing, I assume it should?
There’s no in/out play in the drive shaft
if I put a flat head in the c clip grove (it’s only partially covered, just enough to prevent the clip from snapping in) and leverage it against the outer rotor hub, I can create the clearance to get the c clip in. The play looks to come from small movement in the tunnel where the caliper mounts.
I didn’t notice any pressure on the c clip when I removed it from the rotor, but that would be hard to tell especially since I wasn’t looking for it.
Skid is out. I have attempted to reassemble with the skid in though, same issue.
Before I did this I removed the chain case cover to clean it & change the gear oil. I removed the reverse gear first, so I didn’t disturb the chain. The only thing that came out with the cover was the washer from the middle gear. Which was replaced on assembly.

Any ideas, is something up? Anyone else seen this?

tx

 

[HUS457]

Also, if I put a ratchet strap on the floor boards, through the skid & give it a click or 2, it pulls the tunnel together to give the necessary play to get the c clip in place. But I’d be much more comfortable if the clip went back in place without any of that.

But, looking at some other threads ratcheting the tunnel together a 1/16th of an inch isn’t uncommon?

Tx

Hus

 

[FrozenTows4]

Don't be afraid of using the ratchet strap.
I had to do that, on both machines, when I replaced driveshafts & calipers.
I thought it odd too. Like you, I really didn't want to do it that way.
But, in the end, the ratchet strap was the best route, with the least amount of struggle.
Actually went pretty easy. Both rotors still had a little wiggle, when done, so I knew we were good.

 

[earthling]

normal, ratchet away.

 

[mike800]

https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK-GRIP-24-in-Heavy-Duty-One-Handed-Bar-Clamp/1003168270?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-vf-_-tol-_-ggl-_-SS_Irwin-_-1003168270-_-local-_-0-_-0&&ds_a_cid=279391351&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3rWXrKKL_AIVCrLICh17YAGzEAQYASABEgI0NPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Quick and works well. Extend it into the tunnel and clamp from a driver wheel to a slot in the running board.

 

[HUS457]

Wicked, thanks for the help fellas!

 

[Tod]

question— do u have to remove the pads to get the caliper out of the way to remove the rotor??

I tried to remove the caliper and rotor to do the bearing but was not successful (left pads in place) and was not going to spit the caliper…but it did all go back together without issue—-Tod

 

[HUS457]

No you don’t. I removed the bolt from the plastic shroud under the rotor in the floor board/pan. That gave me enough play to get it all out. But that being said it’s easy to take the pads in & out. Just don’t hit the leaver when they’re out. Might as well give them & the rotor a cleaning.