fredster
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***** UPDATE *****
I just wanted to provide this update on my handwarmer saga - last weekend we removed the grips and elements on the Vector, installed cork on the handlebars, then the elements, and new grips.
We got to go riding today (15-18 degrees) and the reworked grips are much hotter than before! You can actually feel heat everywhere there is a heating element (to within 1 inch of the bar end) and the main part of the grips actually feels close to hot - and just as warm as my 2007 Rage grips. HUGE improvement. This is the first time my son actually had to turn down the heat setting to about the mid-point because his hands were getting hot.
I was skeptical that putting cork under the heating elements would make much difference but it is a big improvement, especially for only $25 and one hour of my time!
For anyone unhappy with their 2008-2009 Vector grips, try the "cork trick" first. It really works!!
*****************
OK, I know this topic has been beat to death over on the 4cyl forum. But I had to ask!
My son rides an 08 Vector GT with the hooked bars. Virtually no heat in the bars as delivered and the dealer said "normal". Son and I installed the Phazer wiring harness, foamed the bars and added handguards and they are now acceptable down to 10-15 degrees or so. But anything colder or running at higher speeds and it is instant cold hands.
I have read through the 100's of posts on this topic. It looks like I have the following options:
1 - bypass the factory ECU controller and control the grips with a hotgrips controller (reostat). Would need to wire in a diode to the original wiring to fool the ECU
2 - in addition to 1, add the actual hotgrips along with the controller
3 - add a second set of heating elements under the stock grips, wired separately for the coldest weather (keeps factory control, stock grips, and no need to wire in a diode to fool computer)
4- gauntlets (not going to happen...my son is 15..."not cool"....)
5 - some people have suggested removing the metal bar ends and adding plastic hooks but not sure if this is any better than foaming.
I know a lot of people with the 4cyl sleds went back to 2006 bars. Not sure if this works with the 3cyl ECU.
My 07 Rage has the 'straight' grips and they do an OK job. I think the DB1 chassis didn't heat the grips through the ECU. I've wondering if I can somehow trace/compare the wiring and wire his like mine, but this is probably more work than it's worth. I would probably have to go to a DB1 ECU and all new wiring to accomplish that.
If anyone has done something that works well on the 08-09 Vector I would appreciate your input! Thanks in advance -
I just wanted to provide this update on my handwarmer saga - last weekend we removed the grips and elements on the Vector, installed cork on the handlebars, then the elements, and new grips.
We got to go riding today (15-18 degrees) and the reworked grips are much hotter than before! You can actually feel heat everywhere there is a heating element (to within 1 inch of the bar end) and the main part of the grips actually feels close to hot - and just as warm as my 2007 Rage grips. HUGE improvement. This is the first time my son actually had to turn down the heat setting to about the mid-point because his hands were getting hot.
I was skeptical that putting cork under the heating elements would make much difference but it is a big improvement, especially for only $25 and one hour of my time!
For anyone unhappy with their 2008-2009 Vector grips, try the "cork trick" first. It really works!!
*****************
OK, I know this topic has been beat to death over on the 4cyl forum. But I had to ask!
My son rides an 08 Vector GT with the hooked bars. Virtually no heat in the bars as delivered and the dealer said "normal". Son and I installed the Phazer wiring harness, foamed the bars and added handguards and they are now acceptable down to 10-15 degrees or so. But anything colder or running at higher speeds and it is instant cold hands.
I have read through the 100's of posts on this topic. It looks like I have the following options:
1 - bypass the factory ECU controller and control the grips with a hotgrips controller (reostat). Would need to wire in a diode to the original wiring to fool the ECU
2 - in addition to 1, add the actual hotgrips along with the controller
3 - add a second set of heating elements under the stock grips, wired separately for the coldest weather (keeps factory control, stock grips, and no need to wire in a diode to fool computer)
4- gauntlets (not going to happen...my son is 15..."not cool"....)
5 - some people have suggested removing the metal bar ends and adding plastic hooks but not sure if this is any better than foaming.
I know a lot of people with the 4cyl sleds went back to 2006 bars. Not sure if this works with the 3cyl ECU.
My 07 Rage has the 'straight' grips and they do an OK job. I think the DB1 chassis didn't heat the grips through the ECU. I've wondering if I can somehow trace/compare the wiring and wire his like mine, but this is probably more work than it's worth. I would probably have to go to a DB1 ECU and all new wiring to accomplish that.
If anyone has done something that works well on the 08-09 Vector I would appreciate your input! Thanks in advance -
fredster
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Hotgrips and RSI - a little info.
An update on my quest, and some questions -
I emailed hotgrips and asked about an OEM replacement. They said that their grips have a 3 ohm resistance each and to just wire both grips in parallel in order to get 6 ohms resistance, which should be in the acceptable range for the Vector ECU. Good idea but wouldn't this result is less heating versus parallel? Also the hotgrips support said this is the first they had heard of the ECU error code issue?
I emailed RSI. They forwarded their installation instructions which says to just wire both the high and low hot leads to the yamaha hot lead and connect the ground.
So this got me to wondering - what happens is you just wire them up like RSI suggested? Will the ECU burn up? Will the fuse blow? Or will the grips just not work?
It seems like the more information I gather the more confused I am.
An update on my quest, and some questions -
I emailed hotgrips and asked about an OEM replacement. They said that their grips have a 3 ohm resistance each and to just wire both grips in parallel in order to get 6 ohms resistance, which should be in the acceptable range for the Vector ECU. Good idea but wouldn't this result is less heating versus parallel? Also the hotgrips support said this is the first they had heard of the ECU error code issue?
I emailed RSI. They forwarded their installation instructions which says to just wire both the high and low hot leads to the yamaha hot lead and connect the ground.
So this got me to wondering - what happens is you just wire them up like RSI suggested? Will the ECU burn up? Will the fuse blow? Or will the grips just not work?
It seems like the more information I gather the more confused I am.
PJVMAX
Extreme
Re: Hotgrips and RSI - a little info.
Wiring them in parallel will halve the resistance. Wiring them in series will double the resistance
fredster said:
Wiring them in parallel will halve the resistance. Wiring them in series will double the resistance
fredster
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Series....not parallel
PJVMAX - you're correct. Hotgrips support suggested wiring both grips in series (rather than parallel) in order to increase the resistance. My bad.
PJVMAX - you're correct. Hotgrips support suggested wiring both grips in series (rather than parallel) in order to increase the resistance. My bad.
fredster
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Nelson's Speed Shop
I paid Nelson's Speed Shop a visit today and asked them what they have done to 'fix' the handwarmers. What they do is remove the grips; carefully remove the heater elements from the bars; install a thin layer of cork on the handlebars; reinstall the elements; install new grips.
They have done this to quite a few skidoo and yamaha sleds and when the took before and after measurements the grips were 25 degrees hotter. Apparently the cork provides a much-needed layer of insulation between the metal bars and the heater elements.
Since this is a relatively cheap mod at $30, I'm going to give it a shot. I'll post an update once the work is done and we have snow to ride on again (it all melted here in West MI last weekend).
I paid Nelson's Speed Shop a visit today and asked them what they have done to 'fix' the handwarmers. What they do is remove the grips; carefully remove the heater elements from the bars; install a thin layer of cork on the handlebars; reinstall the elements; install new grips.
They have done this to quite a few skidoo and yamaha sleds and when the took before and after measurements the grips were 25 degrees hotter. Apparently the cork provides a much-needed layer of insulation between the metal bars and the heater elements.
Since this is a relatively cheap mod at $30, I'm going to give it a shot. I'll post an update once the work is done and we have snow to ride on again (it all melted here in West MI last weekend).
lasrtim
Veteran
Also, try a set a of handgaurds. Add them to my LTX and noticed a difference. Much "cooler" than gauntlets too. 
Gone Blue
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Re: Nelson's Speed Shop
The cork layer sounds interesting. Keep us posted if you give this a try. G.B.
fredster said:
The cork layer sounds interesting. Keep us posted if you give this a try. G.B.
fredster
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cork install done - now just waiting for snow....
My son and I did the 'cork install' today. Basic process:
- We drilled out the two rivets per grip and had to cut the grips off (carefully) by scoring with a utility knife and ripping - lots of glue everywhere and we didn't want to damage the elements underneath. Fortunately the glue holding down the elements is stronger than the grip glue so no damage to the elements occured.
- Used a hair dryer to warm up the heater elements and they peeled right off the bars.
- Lightly sanded/filed the bars to get rid of remaining glue.
- Applied the cork strips - they are precut to fit curved bars (or you can just cut away what you don't need) and adhesive backed.
- Re-installed the heater elements, original glue was still fairly sticky.
- Used electrical tape here and there to cover the element seams (dealer said they use e tape for this step).
- Slid on the new grips using compressed air - tight fit but got them on.
- We also installed a single rivet per side on the outer rivet hole - the one facing down/forward - the new grips were not quite long enough to reach the rivet hole closest to the controls - dealer told us no glue required, the cork makes for a pretty tight fit as is. From what we can tell, the grips will not be moving around. If they do we'll remove the rivet, and grip, add some glue and reinstall. But they seem to be a pretty tight fit.
A few comments -
- The original Yamaha grips are a smaller diameter and will not 'stretch' enough to go over the cork. The grips we installed are actually from BRP but fortunately you can't tell! And the grip pattern is a pretty close match to the originals.
- Nelson's doesn't carry any grips as long as the OEM grips, so there is about 1" of bar right by the controls that is "open" - right where the rivet is at on the stock grips. We will probably cover this area with heat shrink tubing but right now it's covered by good old e-tape.
- With the cork underneath the new grips appear to be the same diameter as my 2007 Rage - slightly larger than the DB2 standard but pretty much on par with other grips.
- We were very surprised to find that the OEM heater elements go ALL THE WAY to the end of the curved bars - we have never felt any heat on any of the curved sections, but the element goes to within about 1 inch of the bar end.
Now...we wait for snow. Might be up north next weekend and hope to try it out then. Will post an update after we have results (good or bad).
My son and I did the 'cork install' today. Basic process:
- We drilled out the two rivets per grip and had to cut the grips off (carefully) by scoring with a utility knife and ripping - lots of glue everywhere and we didn't want to damage the elements underneath. Fortunately the glue holding down the elements is stronger than the grip glue so no damage to the elements occured.
- Used a hair dryer to warm up the heater elements and they peeled right off the bars.
- Lightly sanded/filed the bars to get rid of remaining glue.
- Applied the cork strips - they are precut to fit curved bars (or you can just cut away what you don't need) and adhesive backed.
- Re-installed the heater elements, original glue was still fairly sticky.
- Used electrical tape here and there to cover the element seams (dealer said they use e tape for this step).
- Slid on the new grips using compressed air - tight fit but got them on.
- We also installed a single rivet per side on the outer rivet hole - the one facing down/forward - the new grips were not quite long enough to reach the rivet hole closest to the controls - dealer told us no glue required, the cork makes for a pretty tight fit as is. From what we can tell, the grips will not be moving around. If they do we'll remove the rivet, and grip, add some glue and reinstall. But they seem to be a pretty tight fit.
A few comments -
- The original Yamaha grips are a smaller diameter and will not 'stretch' enough to go over the cork. The grips we installed are actually from BRP but fortunately you can't tell! And the grip pattern is a pretty close match to the originals.
- Nelson's doesn't carry any grips as long as the OEM grips, so there is about 1" of bar right by the controls that is "open" - right where the rivet is at on the stock grips. We will probably cover this area with heat shrink tubing but right now it's covered by good old e-tape.
- With the cork underneath the new grips appear to be the same diameter as my 2007 Rage - slightly larger than the DB2 standard but pretty much on par with other grips.
- We were very surprised to find that the OEM heater elements go ALL THE WAY to the end of the curved bars - we have never felt any heat on any of the curved sections, but the element goes to within about 1 inch of the bar end.
Now...we wait for snow. Might be up north next weekend and hope to try it out then. Will post an update after we have results (good or bad).
