'12 Apex SE: How to "unlock" transfer arm?

[Q. Arrius]

I know this is a silly question....but I can't seem to break the lock nut free on my control rod, so I can adjust my transfer. I have followed the treads on resolving my darting problems....so far I switched to the tuner skis, with 6" inside and 4" outside for my carbides. As predicted, I'm pushing through turns....which is still better than the "machine of death" the original skis gave me.

My transfer is set to about the middle....but I sure seem to have a lot of threads showing. Following the manual, I will rotate my adjustment towards the passenger side, so to speak. I cannot seem to read the pitch on my threads....so I'm struggling to grasp which way I turn to loosen my lock nut. Is there a way to lessen the pressure on my lock nut? It's so tight, I can't budge it with massive channel locks.

If I'm on the "driver's side," am I rotating or spinning to the "passenger" or right side....or rolling the nut towards myself?

I've torn apart and rebuilt plenty of Cats, but my Apex is new, with only 500 miles now....so I admit I'm being cautious vs banging and turning....and being left with a stripped out nut.

I will attempt to post a pic of my manual's instructions. I appreciate any and all help offered! I will also try to post a pic of the LED "road lights," I just finished. This is my first post, but have been using this great resource of a site since last spring. You guys are great, thank you!

Q. Arrius

 

[Shiek]

to loosen the lock nut use the spanner wrench on the nut and from the brake side of the sled pull the spanner wrench toward you if that makes sense?" lefty loosey--righty tighty"counterclockwise--loosens-- might need a pipe that fits over the spanner wrench to assist if its that tight

 

[stevieu1]

If you haven't loosened it yet, take it out,put it in a vise,spray the crap out of it with penetrating oil,and use a pipe wrench. The tool in the kit is worthless. After you get it loose,use anti-sieze on it. I just went through it,what nightmare. Also,clean the threads with a wire brush. Good luck!

 

[Winderallday!]

agreed, spanner tool in kit is useless, its a knuckle buster.

This nut needs a "shock" force to break it free, because there is so much surface area contact between the nut and housing, brute pull force alone will not break it free unless you use a pipe wrench which mangles the outside of the nut.
What I found works best is to use a cold chisel (not for wood) with a blunt or slightly rounded off end, set in the corner of the grooves or slots on the nut along with a brass hammer, a few good whacks and it will break free. Same with tightening back up, just don't over do it.
To loosen lock nut, drive it in one of the slots on top of the nut from the clutch side of sled, to tighten, drive it from chain case side of sled.
Good luck.

 

[sledheadgeorge]

agreed, spanner tool in kit is useless, its a knuckle buster.

This nut needs a "shock" force to break it free, because there is so much surface area contact between the nut and housing, brute pull force alone will not break it free unless you use a pipe wrench which mangles the outside of the nut.
What I found works best is to use a cold chisel (not for wood) with a blunt or slightly rounded off end, set in the corner of the grooves or slots on the nut along with a brass hammer, a few good whacks and it will break free. Same with tightening back up, just don't over do it.
To loosen lock nut, drive it in one of the slots on top of the nut from the clutch side of sled, to tighten, drive it from chain case side of sled.
Good luck.

X2. Use some anti sieze. Different metals react differently and some combinations increase corrosion rate between them.

 

[stevieu1]

FYI, i tried the chisel method and it didn't work for me. Once I did get it free the anti-sieze works wonders. I am now able to adjust it on the trail, with the tool,with no problems

 

[TBay Sledhead]

agreed, spanner tool in kit is useless, its a knuckle buster.

This nut needs a "shock" force to break it free, because there is so much surface area contact between the nut and housing, brute pull force alone will not break it free unless you use a pipe wrench which mangles the outside of the nut.
What I found works best is to use a cold chisel (not for wood) with a blunt or slightly rounded off end, set in the corner of the grooves or slots on the nut along with a brass hammer, a few good whacks and it will break free. Same with tightening back up, just don't over do it.
To loosen lock nut, drive it in one of the slots on top of the nut from the clutch side of sled, to tighten, drive it from chain case side of sled.
Good luck.

That's the way to do it.