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121" to 136" Conversion

Dalton

Pro
Joined
Mar 13, 2013
Messages
131
Location
Chippewa Falls, WI
Country
USA
Snowmobile
Sidewinder XTX SE 141
Yamaha Phazer 2007 GT
Hello there everyone

I'll be using this thread to record my progress for my 2007 Yamaha Phazer GT 121" convert to 136".

Rail extensions are on their way here. While I already purchased a 136" x 14 x 1.5" Camo.

I have some questions regarding the conversion before I start tearing it apart.

- What necessary parts / items would I come across that would need to be replaced during the change? Like seals etc? If any?

- I have done quite a bit of research on this, and quite a few people suggest getting another wheel to keep the track aligned better. Is there a specific product I should be going for?

- Is there any special tools required for doing the conversion?

- Any other tips / hints would be great!

This will be my first ever track change on a snowmobile. Forgive me if I sound like a complete "noob" at this.

Thanks guys!
 

The extra wheel kit is good to have regardless of the length of track you have. You'll need chaincase lube and you really should have the tunnel extended as well. My brothers tunnel was not extended when he first bought it and there was damage to the snow-flap mount. No special tools required, Phazers are easy to swap tracks on.
 
Jeffz said:
The extra wheel kit is good to have regardless of the length of track you have. You'll need chaincase lube and you really should have the tunnel extended as well. My brothers tunnel was not extended when he first bought it and there was damage to the snow-flap mount. No special tools required, Phazers are easy to swap tracks on.

Do you by chance have a link to the wheel kit or an example of one?

Any particular brand of chaincase lube?

Thanks for the info on the tunnel as well!
 
Use the Yamaha 4th wheel kit. As far as lube lots of people using a variety of oil but just get the Yamaha chaincase lube while your in at your dealer buying the wheel kit. I would suggest you buy the two driveshaft bearing so you don't have to go back in there any time soon. Also check your drive sprockets for wear and change them out if needed.
 
Mooseman said:
Any good synthetic 75W90 gear oil will work. No need for the overpriced Yamalube.

I suggested the Yamalube because people get weird about using anything different. I'm running a synthetic ATF.
 
Isn't the ATF a bit thin? The gear oil has some "stick" to it so it can ride up the chain and into the reverse gear case.
 
Ruggybuggy said:
Mooseman said:
Any good synthetic 75W90 gear oil will work. No need for the overpriced Yamalube.

I suggested the Yamalube because people get weird about using anything different. I'm running a synthetic ATF.

Not the frst time I hear of ATF swap.

My brother in-law is a pro-mx mecanic (Honda for a while and now KTM) and he runs ATF in almost everything.
 
Thanks for the info guys!

As far as the process of taking it apart. Does anyone happen to have a video or a step process of how exactly to start tackling the swap?
 
Ruggybuggy said:
Mooseman said:
Any good synthetic 75W90 gear oil will work. No need for the overpriced Yamalube.

I suggested the Yamalube because people get weird about using anything different. I'm running a synthetic ATF.

If the $2.00 or 3.00 extra cost to use yamahalube or Amsoil 2000 chain case lube is going to break somone, you should find another sport. With the chain case using just a few ounces of fluid, not sure why anyone would mess around and run something else???

G.B.
 
Have ran ATF in my chaincases for years on various sleds with no problems.
Phazer was dealer serviced when I got it so it had Yamaha.

Wife's '10 Z1 turbo 'Cat with diamond drive runs it.
Arctic Cat just "recommends" their stuff, DD is a $1400 item I'm trusting to ATF as well.
Works fine for me.
 
porkchop said:
Have ran ATF in my chaincases for years on various sleds with no problems.
Phazer was dealer serviced when I got it so it had Yamaha.

Wife's '10 Z1 turbo 'Cat with diamond drive runs it.
Arctic Cat just "recommends" their stuff, DD is a $1400 item I'm trusting to ATF as well.
Works fine for me.

Totally agree. I ran ATF in my diamond drive for years and never had an issue. Synthetic ATF works great in chaincases. It's a high quality lubricant that works well in that style of case. It's not a case of saving a few buck but just easier to get.
 
Thanks guys for the inputs.

Snow has been getting less and less even though we still have quite a bit. Debating whether or not to do the track swap this weekend or just wait for spring.

The main thing I'm considering is when I have the skid out I will want to replace some stuff that needs to be replaced.. And that means less riding time

Would you guys just go ahead and do the switch now and then worry about replacing parts in the spring later?

Thanks!
 
Most everything can be checked before you start. Lift the sled and check all your idlers and sliders. Check can see if your track drives are worn. Buy both the chain case bearing and left side bearing, your going to replace them regardless of condition. Have all the parts on hand before you start and go to it. It's good to have a buddy around to help remove and install the skid. It's not that difficult and everyone here will help you out if you get stuck. Have a shop manual handy.
 


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