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just speeking my mind , you can call it how you see it :twisted:
monker
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Same here. Call it as you see it. I've run without studs the last 2 years and saw my track wear compared to my buddy's with studs. Now I've got a new sled and am studding for traction down the middle. The old SX is getting studded this year just for saftey for my girlfriend. I don't need her coming into an icy corner and panic when she can't slow down since she doesn't have that much riding experience.
snowbeast
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Hey guys i am not saying not to stud at all,it just seems to many people way over stud,and the stud companies welcome you to buy there studs. Now i do dutd but minimal,so i can grab as much top speed as i can get. And i use steel for light weight to boot,thrusters and alum. backers for speed and unwanted rotating mass,plus i use thrusters for better hook up,so i use less studs.
vmaxjohn
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I'd like to see a side by side comparison between these two styles of studding. I think that would be the only fair way to gain good info. Other than that, and we're all blowing in the wind!hehe
MrSled, have you studded all the way across too?
MrSled, have you studded all the way across too?
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I have 2 different patterns. My long track gets them down the middle and my shorty RX1 gets them all over 168 pics. I have done my days of testing....I know what I like.... :twisted: :twisted:. I would like to here from others on this topic. My results are as posted but maybe my theory is wrong. So lets hear it guys...whats your findings????
craig
Extreme
Tom, I put 192 studs in my 1 1/4" X 136" track and studded the outside. I do get a slight push in the corners, but that could just be from going to a 136. I never rode it without studs. Of course you have a little more built in traction sitting on the seat than I do. :lol:
boone
Extreme
When climbing ice hills on trails, and you can't make it and start sliding back down, you will wish you had at least min studs or grabers! boone
KEITHFD
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rx-1 studs/skis
What's up Guys?
Last year was my first season owning a sled and I bought the RX-1. My first decison was to sud or not to stud. I rode the first few times unstudded, and inexperinced to boot. Then I studded it w/ 144 woodys and 4" douly carbides. I couldn't believe how much more I liked it. Night and day. With that said, I decided to do some pre season research and I think I've decided on adding 24 more studs. I bent allot of them last season and was told this was from under studding. Makes sense to me.
As far as the carbides go, I liked the doulys, but they hang down more in the front and get caught (hard) sometimes on obstructions such as rail road crossings, trailes, ect.. My question is this, what do you guys run/recomend for ski/carbide set up for a rx-1 w the short track/168 studs. I have the new longer arms and a 12mm bar. I'm condidering the true dual crbide ski's like the ski-doos come with, or posibly the 6"or 8'doulys. Any info woulld be great, you guy's seem to know what you're talking about.
I ride mostly groomed trails in NH & Maine with experienced, aggresive trail riders.
What's up Guys?
Last year was my first season owning a sled and I bought the RX-1. My first decison was to sud or not to stud. I rode the first few times unstudded, and inexperinced to boot. Then I studded it w/ 144 woodys and 4" douly carbides. I couldn't believe how much more I liked it. Night and day. With that said, I decided to do some pre season research and I think I've decided on adding 24 more studs. I bent allot of them last season and was told this was from under studding. Makes sense to me.
As far as the carbides go, I liked the doulys, but they hang down more in the front and get caught (hard) sometimes on obstructions such as rail road crossings, trailes, ect.. My question is this, what do you guys run/recomend for ski/carbide set up for a rx-1 w the short track/168 studs. I have the new longer arms and a 12mm bar. I'm condidering the true dual crbide ski's like the ski-doos come with, or posibly the 6"or 8'doulys. Any info woulld be great, you guy's seem to know what you're talking about.
I ride mostly groomed trails in NH & Maine with experienced, aggresive trail riders.
jimmie d
TY 4 Stroke Master
John, the only recommended use, from what I have been told, for those
screw in studs are on LOW PERFORMANCE sleds. Once you get to a higher hp sled they get thrown out and are dangerous especially to the guy following you.
Jim
screw in studs are on LOW PERFORMANCE sleds. Once you get to a higher hp sled they get thrown out and are dangerous especially to the guy following you.
Jim
vmaxjohn
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Green, they can be used, and have been used in long distance racing. There's great info on www.bergstromskegs.com and you can decide for yourself. I like the idea, but have yet to put it to practice.
Scott recommend using alot of the trailgrabbers if you've got a liquid sled, a triple, or ride hard. I'd probably go with 300 or so. It's usually double what you'd run with studs, then add 48 for liquid, then add 48 for agressive riding, and so on. I think you'd reach a point where you wouldn't over stress individual screws and would still have near the same top speed as with nothing in there.
As far as I can see, theories are great, but what works for ya works. Having a 136" track can throw off a sleds balance, to get it back more agressive skis are in order. We can see that in what Yamaha is doing with teh Warrior this year.
Come to think of it, I bent a few studs last year on my lil 5, maybe I should go with 120, hehe.
Scott recommend using alot of the trailgrabbers if you've got a liquid sled, a triple, or ride hard. I'd probably go with 300 or so. It's usually double what you'd run with studs, then add 48 for liquid, then add 48 for agressive riding, and so on. I think you'd reach a point where you wouldn't over stress individual screws and would still have near the same top speed as with nothing in there.
As far as I can see, theories are great, but what works for ya works. Having a 136" track can throw off a sleds balance, to get it back more agressive skis are in order. We can see that in what Yamaha is doing with teh Warrior this year.
Come to think of it, I bent a few studs last year on my lil 5, maybe I should go with 120, hehe.
MrSled said:
Why did you elect to stud only the center belt?.
Bigtimesledder1
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Studding Continued
Guys, I purchased this RX Warrior this year and also own am 03 F7 and O2 ZR 800 ( Wifes Sled) both are studded the ZR 8 with 144 on inner belt and outer belts. The F7 has 153 on the center belt. We rode 1500 miles last year and for me to give you an honest comparison handling wise would be mose difficult based upon the fact that these sleds are (2) totallydifferent animals.
The ZR 8 handles aboluty like it is on rail and in straight line runs hooks up beautifuly and my wfe is not a very heavy person. The f7 on the other hand is excellent in straight line and very good cornering but pushes a bit do to the 128" track. It requires that you have your body into it on turns at higher speeds, the nice part is it doesn't swing the #*$&@ end round.
Where-as my daughter will be riding the RX warrior the majority of the time I want to be darn sure the Yami stays true in the turns and boogies out of the chute on straight line runs. So this is why I am listining to suggestions for the Warrior before I stud it. Rip Saw track or not it's being studded as it is a much more enjoyable ride and most inportantly a safer one, Thanks for all you sugestions but I am still unsure whether it is best to stud the outside belt on this particular sled. :roll:
Guys, I purchased this RX Warrior this year and also own am 03 F7 and O2 ZR 800 ( Wifes Sled) both are studded the ZR 8 with 144 on inner belt and outer belts. The F7 has 153 on the center belt. We rode 1500 miles last year and for me to give you an honest comparison handling wise would be mose difficult based upon the fact that these sleds are (2) totallydifferent animals.
The ZR 8 handles aboluty like it is on rail and in straight line runs hooks up beautifuly and my wfe is not a very heavy person. The f7 on the other hand is excellent in straight line and very good cornering but pushes a bit do to the 128" track. It requires that you have your body into it on turns at higher speeds, the nice part is it doesn't swing the #*$&@ end round.
Where-as my daughter will be riding the RX warrior the majority of the time I want to be darn sure the Yami stays true in the turns and boogies out of the chute on straight line runs. So this is why I am listining to suggestions for the Warrior before I stud it. Rip Saw track or not it's being studded as it is a much more enjoyable ride and most inportantly a safer one, Thanks for all you sugestions but I am still unsure whether it is best to stud the outside belt on this particular sled. :roll:
