137 Sidewinder SE owners. Suspension set up?

[jonlafon1]

This is a bunch of stuff I posted and or wrote to other members as far as set up went on mine this year. Sorry for the copy and paste but figured it was easier.

Not sure what's up with this .. But I really have no problem getting mine to float the skis(1-2 inches off ground) to 80 mph.. I guess I will say that my LTX-SE transfers very well for how hard I ride. NOW after running two different 129's(12 cat,15 cat) before this>those transferred better.. The problem I had this year with my first 137 was trying to set it up and make it act more like a 129.. These have to be set up to be SOMEWHAT flatter into and through the corners.. I know if your riding on the blocks all the time and or to soft in back it is a lot harder to get transfer. And I understand that makes no sense but you HAVE to adjust your front half also. It handles like SH&% if your bottomed out and riding on the blocks and or bar(if blocks are removed).. Very fine line and its hard not to ride on the coupler blocks and still be somewhat soft in back(especially on the 137).. When I sit on my sled (stopped)after riding for 30 miles it does not touch the metal rod (coupler blocks removed).
My sled does drop a bit in front when I let off gas > which is also a huge part of the transfer process. IMO

It took me a bit this year to get it through my head that I needed to set it up to be flatter then past sleds, and its (137 coupled) just a different approach into and through the corners. . The one thing I changed on mine from stock was the front track shock spring. I feel the stocker is to soft on initial sit in.. And What I mean is when you sit on the sled its to soft and sags to much (in the middle).. Which I believe puts more ski pressure on sled and gives hard steering. So then I cranked mine up and I lost the travel some and it got to stiff. I have always felt that this spring is VERY important on the procross chassis. And maybe even more so on the 137 coupled.. Just seems if this spring is to soft or to stiff it throws the whole handling off.. If your a light weight guy (under 180) the front track shock(stock) is probably fine.. The front track shock spring on the LTX- SE model is to soft on the initial sit in rate.. I went with a RAPTOR spring.. Which I believe to be very close to 135/260... The stocker is 90/260 I believe

Just my two cents on a LTX_SE not sure if this pertains to other models.. Guys that want a lot of transfer should really go with a 129.. The 137 is more of a flat riding sled. ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::



I will say that the first 500-700 miles will be ALOT different then after. The shocks and everything need miles to loosen up .. So just something to think about.. I weigh 225 dressed and riding.. I was on the stiffest setting in back(plastic triangle on torsion springs). The front TRACK shock spring is not stock and that shock spring I turned just so its snug. The front shocks I need to take a measurement for you(as far as how tight the springs are on the shock body).


I will measure the front springs for you and get back to you in the next few days..
The sled will be TO STIFF the first 500 miles if you run my settings.. If you deviate from the settings for the first few hundred that would be okay.. BUT After 500-600 miles my setting are damn good IMO.. The stock spring I replaced is baby soft IMO. I chased my setting until about 600 miles.. And actually hated the sled and handling until I changed out the front track spring and got 600 or more miles on.. I put 2300 last season and it was pretty damn good ride for a SE model..

I FORGOT skis.. I never tried the stockers.. I ran SLT skis for awhile and then switched to Cat skis with 1/4 shims(shimmed skis>which is important) and slim jim 6" from Woodys.. It was very good and turned easy .. This is also with 192 studs.. One would think those skis (CAT) wouldn't be good with only a 6" slim jim. Don't underestimate stock CAT skis.. You can get them cheap if you shop around.. I put white ones on my sled and like that set up a lot.. I don't drive SUPER aggressive but will ride hard when trails are flat


Limiter straps ALL the way out.. I found another hole under the washer .. forgot that also.. I guess My mind is with ATV's and fishing now


I need to take a measurement and will post on front shock spring location on front shocks

 

[snowbeast]

This is a bunch of stuff I posted and or wrote to other members as far as set up went on mine this year. Sorry for the copy and paste but figured it was easier.

Not sure what's up with this .. But I really have no problem getting mine to float the skis(1-2 inches off ground) to 80 mph.. I guess I will say that my LTX-SE transfers very well for how hard I ride. NOW after running two different 129's(12 cat,15 cat) before this>those transferred better.. The problem I had this year with my first 137 was trying to set it up and make it act more like a 129.. These have to be set up to be SOMEWHAT flatter into and through the corners.. I know if your riding on the blocks all the time and or to soft in back it is a lot harder to get transfer. And I understand that makes no sense but you HAVE to adjust your front half also. It handles like SH&% if your bottomed out and riding on the blocks and or bar(if blocks are removed).. Very fine line and its hard not to ride on the coupler blocks and still be somewhat soft in back(especially on the 137).. When I sit on my sled (stopped)after riding for 30 miles it does not touch the metal rod (coupler blocks removed).
My sled does drop a bit in front when I let off gas > which is also a huge part of the transfer process. IMO

It took me a bit this year to get it through my head that I needed to set it up to be flatter then past sleds, and its (137 coupled) just a different approach into and through the corners. . The one thing I changed on mine from stock was the front track shock spring. I feel the stocker is to soft on initial sit in.. And What I mean is when you sit on the sled its to soft and sags to much (in the middle).. Which I believe puts more ski pressure on sled and gives hard steering. So then I cranked mine up and I lost the travel some and it got to stiff. I have always felt that this spring is VERY important on the procross chassis. And maybe even more so on the 137 coupled.. Just seems if this spring is to soft or to stiff it throws the whole handling off.. If your a light weight guy (under 180) the front track shock(stock) is probably fine.. The front track shock spring on the LTX- SE model is to soft on the initial sit in rate.. I went with a RAPTOR spring.. Which I believe to be very close to 135/260... The stocker is 90/260 I believe

Just my two cents on a LTX_SE not sure if this pertains to other models.. Guys that want a lot of transfer should really go with a 129.. The 137 is more of a flat riding sled. ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::



I will say that the first 500-700 miles will be ALOT different then after. The shocks and everything need miles to loosen up .. So just something to think about.. I weigh 225 dressed and riding.. I was on the stiffest setting in back(plastic triangle on torsion springs). The front TRACK shock spring is not stock and that shock spring I turned just so its snug. The front shocks I need to take a measurement for you(as far as how tight the springs are on the shock body).


I will measure the front springs for you and get back to you in the next few days..
The sled will be TO STIFF the first 500 miles if you run my settings.. If you deviate from the settings for the first few hundred that would be okay.. BUT After 500-600 miles my setting are damn good IMO.. The stock spring I replaced is baby soft IMO. I chased my setting until about 600 miles.. And actually hated the sled and handling until I changed out the front track spring and got 600 or more miles on.. I put 2300 last season and it was pretty damn good ride for a SE model..

I FORGOT skis.. I never tried the stockers.. I ran SLT skis for awhile and then switched to Cat skis with 1/4 shims(shimmed skis>which is important) and slim jim 6" from Woodys.. It was very good and turned easy .. This is also with 192 studs.. One would think those skis (CAT) wouldn't be good with only a 6" slim jim. Don't underestimate stock CAT skis.. You can get them cheap if you shop around.. I put white ones on my sled and like that set up a lot.. I don't drive SUPER aggressive but will ride hard when trails are flat


Limiter straps ALL the way out.. I found another hole under the washer .. forgot that also.. I guess My mind is with ATV's and fishing now


I need to take a measurement and will post on front shock spring location on front shocks

Awsome write up Jon,my son has your sled,mine is the LTX-LE,but steve the shoc-Doc believes what you do about the spring on front skid shock,now mine is a two spring set up,but even that steve still feels that that spring is wrong for this sled,and he may be 100% correct. Is the spring you got off the raptor,is it a single complete spring,meaning its all one piece,but still dule rate? Like I said,mine is two separate springs separated by a spacer,and one of them springs or maybe both could be wrong for this set up. Pete

 

[jonlafon1]

Thank You Pete.
This is it. It's called a triple rate Raptor. It's a company called Raptor. They are a shock company I believe. I really feel this helped my ride a lot.

 

[jonlafon1]

this is where I have my shocks. Its in mm. Its measured from the top of the adjuster ring to the LIGHT thread on top. Its the very top shallow thread where I measure from.

FRONT SHOCKS

 

[Shagnos]

Than You Pete.
This is it. It's called a triple rate Raptor. It's a company called Raptor. They are a shock company I believe. I really feel this helped my ride a lot.

Part #?

 

[jonlafon1]

http://www.raptorshocks.com/store/products/Triple-Rate-Springs-(Front-Track).html

 

[snowbeast]

Thank You Pete.
This is it. It's called a triple rate Raptor. It's a company called Raptor. They are a shock company I believe. I really feel this helped my ride a lot.

Ya,thats what I was speaking of Jon,its like the one on my wifes 06 classic poo ski shock,but I am sure those springs are to tall,but same idea. Thanks bro.

 

[snowbeast]

this is where I have my shocks. Its in mm. Its measured from the top of the adjuster ring to the LIGHT thread on top. Its the very top shallow thread where I measure from.

FRONT SHOCKS

View attachment 128567

Hi again Jon,is that close to 43mm which is 1.6899 thou. man nice looking spring,raptor sounds like a good company,for 60 bucks,i may just have to get one,now the big question,is it possible to install that spring w/out removing the skid,

 

[JestersYamacat]

The good part is yoiu can take out both shocks without removing the skid. Done it many times. The front is easiest to do. I am gonna grab one for the fall for mine as that is my biggest gripe is hoe fast it collapses on bigger stuff. The ride is actually pretty damn good if you remove the coupler blocks and just put rod back in. Cheers

jester

 

[snowbeast]

The good part is yoiu can take out both shocks without removing the skid. Done it many times. The front is easiest to do. I am gonna grab one for the fall for mine as that is my biggest gripe is hoe fast it collapses on bigger stuff. The ride is actually pretty damn good if you remove the coupler blocks and just put rod back in. Cheers

jester

Hi jester,we did remove blocks,so now it does have desent transfer,but can you exsplain how to remove front shock,and leave skid attached,maybe with a pic or two. Thanks Beast