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LTX-LE - Suspension Set up help

hmmm....lots of posts on other skis using slim jim dually to lighten ski effort on comparatively heavy steering skis i.e. c&a razors ...might try that?
 

hmmm....lots of posts on other skis using slim jim dually to lighten ski effort on comparatively heavy steering skis i.e. c&a razors ...might try that?
Ya I called woodys too they only make dually for c&a not the usi stud boy makes a dial for the usi but expensive and don't want to put more money into them if I only get mediocre results
 
This is where I am at and its an excellent handing setup:

LTX=LE 220lb rider

Front Suspension

-Compression on 1, rebound 12 clicks from hardest
-Spring tension removed. When lifted just enough spring tension to keep spring seated.
-Pilot 6.9 Ski's with 8" Woodys Executive runner in center, nothing for outboard runner

Rear Suspension

-Center shock on compression setting 1
-Spring tightened to 10 threads showing (may go a little more)
-Rebound factory

-Rear shock on compression setting 2
-Rebound factory
-Spring tension 1
-Blocks removed from transfer rod

Handles like a dream now with light steering.

Rebound adjustment on rear shocks? Show me please!
 

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If you want to kill 30-40 minutes and maybe learn a bit more about setting up a suspension, Jake from Skinz has a decent 4 part video series on Youtube.

Search for 'Skins Protective Gear' and you should be able to find it in their list of videos.
 
I thought that I'd share something that I've tried recently that has really made a significant difference in the heavy feeling steering and lack of weight transfer in the LTX models.

I've got a LTX-LE and agree with what other owners have said about the heavy feeling steering and the lack of weight transfer with the stock settings. I swapped out the stock Tuner skis with SLP Mohawk skis right from the get go and found that with the more aggressive skis installed that it only make the steering effort even worse. I lengthened the limiter strap to the longest position and also increased the preload on the front skid shock along with lighting up the preload on the ski shocks, and set the rear torsion springs to the softest position as was recommended on this thread. I also installed a Racewerx Quick Adjust coupler block and set it in highest weight transfer position. All of these adjustments did make for a slightly lighter steering effort and a marginal increase in weight transfer.

I should mention that I have replaced the stock Fox QS3-R stock shocks with a full set of Custom Axis shocks from Hygear Suspension. After recently talking to Hygear they suggested swapping out the stock rear torsion springs with their lighter rate torsion springs. With their testing of the 137" skid that's in this model they have found over the years that the stock torsion springs are too heavy of a rate that doesn't allow proper rear sag of the suspension and also limits the weight transfer. I measured the diameter of the stock torsion spring at .420" compared to their lighter rate spring which measures .375". Hygear also re-arches the spring ends that allows for more sit it sag. I found with my weight (150lbs.) that the rear of the sled would barely move or collapse when I got on the sled with the stock torsion springs.

After I installed their lighter torsion springs on the skid I was amazed at the difference in the steering effort and weight transfer. The heavy feeling steering effort is totally gone and the weight transfer now is very noticeable. There is actually some initial sit in sag in the rear suspension even before I sit on the sled and the rear of the sled will actually drop down even more when I sit on the sled. I haven't tried to see if the sled will actually carry the skis off the ground under full acceleration, but I have found that I can get the skis to just touch the tops of successive bumps in the trail now using the throttle where before the front would be plowing through the same bumps. I can now actually feel the weight transfer to the rear of the sled under power and the weight transfer back to the skis when letting off the throttle, yet the steering effort remains light through the corners without any push whatsoever.

I would say that for most riders that weigh under 200 lbs.to give these springs a try if you're looking to lighten up the steering effort of your LTX along with getting the best weight transfer available from this skid. One other benefit that I found when using these springs is that since the rear of the sled now rides lower, snow now actually collects on the inside of the snow flap and gets thrown up on the rear heat exchanger instead of just getting shot out the back of the sled under the snow flap. I noticed that the coolant temperature has actually gone down since I've installed these springs.

In the picture below you can actually see how much snow has accumulated on the inside of the snow flap, and this was riding in very hard pack snow conditions where the snow was almost solid on the trails:
17.03.09_Mar-UP-Snowmobiling_487_IMG_20170309_110935.JPG


Here's a link to the springs on the Hygear site: https://www.hygearsuspension.com/co...aha-viper-ltx-arctic-cat-xf-137-pair-modified
 
Hey, somebody stole your windshield. Glad to see you finally got some seat time.
 
I thought that I'd share something that I've tried recently that has really made a significant difference in the heavy feeling steering and lack of weight transfer in the LTX models.


Here's a link to the springs on the Hygear site: https://www.hygearsuspension.com/co...aha-viper-ltx-arctic-cat-xf-137-pair-modified

I am not so concerned with the steering effort , and that is even with me coming off an Apex XTX 144 tipped rails , with the star kit and power steering, and Tuners with snowtrackers .
I am not sure I will even replace the Tuners , as I might just try the skis off the Apex with Snowtrackers , make some suggested adjustments to the set up , and go from there .
The transfer , to me is the bigger issue , and rather than replace the fabulous shocks , these are the suggested changes to deal with the transfer .

"Stiffer center shock spring with shorter limiter straps.

Valving is needed in the center shock to keep comfort with the stiffer spring

We also remove the coupler blocks shaft for best acceleration and cornering, but comfort is a little bit compromised with the very short limiter straps.


Your stock spring is a dual spring arrangement. Together they are way to soft. Preload wont be enough.

Yes, we have the stiffer spring here. this is a 3.0 kg/mm

Valving is required but not mandatory.. the shock will bounce up a little to much.

This will lighten the steering at the same time.

Limiter straps are usually loose when we sit on the sled. Longer straps wont really help steering effort.

Also, very tight track tension will reduce transfer. This is something we have to remember" .


This is a little of what you are doing , without changing the shocks , as you did .

This is from Robert at Star Suspensions , whose kit was an amazing improvement to the stock set up on my Apex .

Great post , and your experience will greatly assist other SW owners , make a great sled better .
Your sled looks good , at quick glance it looks a little like the 2008 40th Anniversary Nytro , which my son had , and unfortunately had front end issues , that were not easily fixed , so it was quickly replaced .
My solution will be a little different than yours , as I am 240 lbs. dressed up , and ready to ride.
 
Has Anyone tried the Sno Trackers? The dealer in my area run them on all of their sleds. The problem I have experienced is poor steering in light snow conditions. On hard pack it is heavy feeling, but I can live with that as long as it turns.
 
Has Anyone tried the Sno Trackers? The dealer in my area run them on all of their sleds. The problem I have experienced is poor steering in light snow conditions. On hard pack it is heavy feeling, but I can live with that as long as it turns.

Yep, I've got them on the oem skis.
Been trying different setups... they work good.

Sent from my SM-T705W using Tapatalk
 


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