137 Sidewinder SE owners. Suspension set up?

[jonlafon1]

I actually think your probably spot on about rear shock in YOUR SITUATION. I weigh at least 220 dressed riding. It's WAY TO STIFF STOCK. AT 170 and that LXR shock might be your ticket.
Thanks for post. Keep us informed what you find and you thoughts.

 

[jonlafon1]

I would do the cat LXR. I'm a cat guy from the past and they usually are very good with shocks IMO. THE LXR is what you want of the two IMO

 

[jonlafon1]

Just make sure you stay flat WHILE SITTING ON SLED. Anything less then flat is to soft

 

[uprider800]

Mine is on hole one. Very loose.

Did you change it from the factory? Mine had a hidden hole under the washer. I let my Rtx out to the last hole and it's a totally different sled. Much more balanced.


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[jonlafon1]

I will check to make sure. But I think I saw 3 holes beyond the one I'm in. So thinking four total? But no it's in factory I believe

 

[jonlafon1]

Did you change it from the factory? Mine had a hidden hole under the washer. I let my Rtx out to the last hole and it's a totally different sled. Much more balanced.


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How many holes total did you see?

 

[geez150]

Yeah the center shock/spring is soft as baby sh*t. I could not really get a good feel for adjusting anything else do to the constant bottoming. I have a feeling that the LXR rear shock could be too soft for you all. I adjusted my center spring tighter quite a bit then put the torsion springs on 3 and it still bottomed easy and then rode stiff on the smaller bumps. Hoping to get my shocks back this week but no snow on the ground and going to be 50 on Tuesday here in western NY.

 

[jonlafon1]

That LXR shock will work for a LIGHT WEIGHT RIDER. But I agree with the center suspension shock being mush!

 

[Doc Harley]

Jon, I'm a huge fan of shapers. As I stated. Like to ride the sled as delivered. That way I can ride it and see how much needs to be adjusted.
Going from factory 4" to 7.5" shapers is massive. Wonder if there's enough adjustment on the springs to compensate? That question would depend on the rider.

 

[snowbeast]

It's just so damn nose heavy and the ski pressure is outrageous. Still working on mine. Getting close. But it was way off stock. Especially front shocks. I now have about 1.5 inches of thread on the top of the springs. I started with at least 3! It's almost to the point of not being able to loosen anymore and still keep upper A arms level to the ground while sitting on sled

Why did you back off the ski shock preload so much? For less ski pressure? Where are your straps set at? What ski and carbides do you currently have on? Where is your front skid shock preload set at? Where are your transfer blocks at? Just trying to figure out why yours is so hard to turn,my sons sled is same sled,and with all settings stock,except we did pull straps down one maybe two holes and that's it,i thought it handled well and was not to hard on steering,but if I had installed my 5.7 pilots w/7.5 shapers,than it may need some tweeking.

 

[snowbeast]

Why did you back off the ski shock preload so much? For less ski pressure? Where are your straps set at? What ski and carbides do you currently have on? Where is your front skid shock preload set at? Where are your transfer blocks at? Just trying to figure out why yours is so hard to turn,my sons sled is same sled,and with all settings stock,except we did pull straps down one maybe two holes and that's it,i thought it handled well and was not to hard on steering,but if I had installed my 5.7 pilots w/7.5 shapers,than it may need some tweeking.

Sorry Jon,i did not see all the other posts on your set up,hope you get it sorted out bro.

 

[jonlafon1]

No problem! I will get it soon enough. Its getting close now.. NEED more miles..
The issue is so hard to compare when its different skis, carbides, and 192 studs. They are set stock for the Tuner skis. I went SLT with 7.5 shapers - totally different set up.. I might have notices something last night on the skis/carbide. I did shim them and it seems like I may have to shim more or move the ski one hole.. Based on carbide wear pattern

 

[jonlafon1]

*** UPDATE**

Okay .. Made some adjustments on my SE. First I noticed the carbides on my SLT ski are worn pretty heavy in the front.. I had shims on them, but I installed slightly thicker ones. Next I went to the limiter straps and actually found another hole under the washer .. So they have 5 holes in them, and now I have mine in number one(longest length).. Next the front suspension shock under the limiter straps. Going off What Cannondale said(who knows his shock SH*&).. I moved spring on shock until the coils that are tight together were about 1/8 apart.. These coils are kind of hard to see but if you use a light and pull the rubber booty thing off to one side you can see them with light. Next I set the front shock springs about dead even as far as shock threads go.. So 2 inches of thread from top of collar to the end of the threads on top. Heading up Thursday to the cabin in the UP.. Will report back..

Sled info.. 192 studs 1.325.. SLT skis w/7.5 shapers.

 

[number1kyster]

Any update on your setups? My dad just picked up an LTX SE.

 

[justin1620]

This is what I did on my '17 LTX SE. Loosen spring preload off front ski shocks somewhat, tighten spring preload on front skid shock. I left my rear spring position stock position, limiter strap on last hole (loose) it was hidden under the washer. Coupler blocks turned to most transfer. Approx 200lbs dressed, stock skis, no studs. This was night and day difference for reducing ski pressure, improved weight transfer, and easier steering. Make small adjustments until you find the sweet spot.