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13mm sway bar install question

MXD

Pro
Joined
Nov 29, 2005
Messages
171
Location
Boston, MA
With the stock sway bar I was running my A arms pretty close to level. The installation instructions say to run no less than 5.4 inches from the top of the shock to the top of the spring. This was much more pressure than the way I was running it before and with the new bar and this set up, it handled worse. Can I go back to level or will it damage something?

Also, do you have to "load" the sway bar when you put it in or just slide it through and bolt it up? I took all the linkage off to make the install easier and I could only line up the mark on the end of the bar on one side. The other was off by a little. Will this effect the performance.

FYI, I installed it with the sled off the ground and the suspension completely unloaded
 

I installed a 12mm. I also found that the links didn't quite line up. The I flipped the link over, taht made it fit corretly. There shouldn't be any preload on the bar, it shold slide together and the bolts should go right in, assuming they came out freely.
 
I used the marker line on the new sway bar and matched it up to one edge of the expansion opening on the link. The tiny hash marker line on the 13mm sway bar is towards the back of the opening on the link on one side of the sled and that is on the opposite edge of the opening on the other side of the sled.

What I am saying is that the hash markers on the 13mm sway bar will not be exactly the same on both sides of the sled, or you can't put the sway bar links back in. I made sure that I did not change the posiiton of the stock sway bar links when removing and re-installing. If you have the hash marker clockwise just a hair on one side, remember that clockwise on the other side will look the opposite. I took a trip up north with it this past weekend and it worked great.
 
I used the marker line on the new sway bar and matched it up to one edge of the expansion opening on the link. The tiny hash marker line on the 13mm sway bar is towards the back of the opening on the link on one side of the sled and that is on the opposite edge of the opening on the other side of the sled.

What I am saying is that the hash markers on the 13mm sway bar will not be exactly the same on both sides of the sled, or you can't put the sway bar links back in. I made sure that I did not change the posiiton of the stock sway bar links when removing and re-installing. If you have the hash marker clockwise just a hair on one side, remember that clockwise on the other side will look the opposite. I took a trip up north with it this past weekend and it worked great.

I can see how sk-rx1 would get his to line up perfectly by flipping around the sway bar link. I didn't want to flip anything around, so as to keep it mounted the same as the link was from the factory. Either way, it should work fine. I had no problems. The 13mm bar didn't want to slide through the sled at first, but with some rotation and fenagling, it went through. Keep the mounting bolt out, slide the link onto the sway bar, re-thread bolt into mounting link.
 
Put the arms on before putting it in sled . They must be clocked the same , mark the bar , pull 1 off and install !!!!
 
MXD said:
The installation instructions say to run no less than 5.4 inches from the top of the shock to the top of the spring.

Really have to wonder where they came up with that nonsense.

Oh, I know... thats what their LAWYERS told them to say.



Its like this; if the springs are TOO LOOSE, then upon FULL SHOCK EXTENSION, the spring will not be under any/enough pressure to guarantee that it does not fall off the retainer tab. In order to make sure that this doesn't happen, they give you a specific minimum number. Its up to you what you do. As long as it isn't so loose that it will fall out, there is no risk of damage.
 
My issue came up when I took the link off completely. The instructions said something about positioning the chamfered side in. So I looked. I tried to put it back on and the bolts did not line up perfectly, indicating that I would have preload, not the way it should be. So I took the link back off, flipped it over, slid it back on and it was good to go. Bottom line is that the splined links are apprently not symetrical if flipped over. Doesn't really matter, I was trying to find the"chanfered" edge as per instructions. Those things always confuse me.
 
i rode all weekend with a freshly installed 13mm bar. it made the sled corner much flatter. i had some help when we installed it and ulmers bushing kit. we ignored the marks on the bar and just made shure that they where both pointing at the floor squarely before we bolted them to the lower a-arms.
 


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