Kestrell
Newbie
Hi All,
One of the Idler wheels on my old phazer fell off last winter, and now I'm getting around to fixing it.
This is a 1991 phazer II, with an aftermarket track extension.
I noticed the Idler Wheel lying in the snow, and the bolt was still in the shaft, so the metal center of the Idler Wheel broke off somehow.
I have since lost the bolt, and it looks like the inside threads on the shaft might be stripped?
I'm not sure what I need to fix this, does anyone know?
I'll attach some pics.
Thanks,
-K
One of the Idler wheels on my old phazer fell off last winter, and now I'm getting around to fixing it.
This is a 1991 phazer II, with an aftermarket track extension.
I noticed the Idler Wheel lying in the snow, and the bolt was still in the shaft, so the metal center of the Idler Wheel broke off somehow.
I have since lost the bolt, and it looks like the inside threads on the shaft might be stripped?
I'm not sure what I need to fix this, does anyone know?
I'll attach some pics.
Thanks,
-K
- Joined
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- sudbury on
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1988 vk 540
that bolt is supposed to be pinned into the shaft with a split pin. when it breaks the pin, it strips the threads on the way out. a new one is $41.15 from port yamaha part #
REAR AXLE
8L8-47520-02-00
i have fixed them before by tapping it for a coarse thread standard bolt with a washer and using red locktight to hold it in there. i would go through all the wheels and check all the bearings as it sounds like it hasn't been done in awhile. bearings should be replaceable in all those wheels if rubber is still good on them.
REAR AXLE
8L8-47520-02-00
i have fixed them before by tapping it for a coarse thread standard bolt with a washer and using red locktight to hold it in there. i would go through all the wheels and check all the bearings as it sounds like it hasn't been done in awhile. bearings should be replaceable in all those wheels if rubber is still good on them.
Kestrell
Newbie
Interesting. So I need to take the old shaft out and replace it with a new one. I also need a new Idler wheel as well, right?
When I check the other idler wheels, how can I tell if the bearings need replacing?
Also, I relaxed the two tension nuts in the back, but the track is still pretty tight. Is there something else I need to do to loosen the track up so I can look at the other wheels?
When I check the other idler wheels, how can I tell if the bearings need replacing?
Also, I relaxed the two tension nuts in the back, but the track is still pretty tight. Is there something else I need to do to loosen the track up so I can look at the other wheels?
- Joined
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2009 phaser rtx/x
1997 et410t/r
1988 vk 540
you need to loosen the nut off on the other side and smack on the end of it with a hammer. adjusters/shaft will move towards the front of the slot. sounds like it has not been apart in awhile. just make sure the track is held away from the wheel when you spin it to check the bearings. do not forget the ones up in the top in the tunnel.
when you spin the wheels, it will rumble or feel notchy if the bearings are bad. if just out of grease theyt make a a shhhhshing noise. some times you can get away with picking a seal out, and cleaning them before repacking as the grease can get hard and cause issues.
if the rubber is still good on the old one, you can just put a new bearing into it.
when you spin the wheels, it will rumble or feel notchy if the bearings are bad. if just out of grease theyt make a a shhhhshing noise. some times you can get away with picking a seal out, and cleaning them before repacking as the grease can get hard and cause issues.
if the rubber is still good on the old one, you can just put a new bearing into it.
Kestrell
Newbie
I see. Thanks, this is good stuff!
Are the bearings universal? I searched for "phazer ii idler wheel bearing" and got a bunch of hits on ebay, but I'm a little leary of those.
Are the bearings universal? I searched for "phazer ii idler wheel bearing" and got a bunch of hits on ebay, but I'm a little leary of those.
- Joined
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- Messages
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- Location
- sudbury on
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2011 apex xtx
2009 phaser rtx/x
1997 et410t/r
1988 vk 540
you can buy them at any bearing supply house or sleds parts store but the ntn ones are better in my personal experiance.
yamaha usually uses 6004 in the idler wheels and 6204 in the rear wheels. i usually buy them in a sleeve of 10 from our local power sports aftermarket store as i tend to use that many every couple of years pre seasoning a minimum of 5 sleds (or more) a year. a couple of good guys to buy from that are sponsors on here are barn of parts, port yamaha, ulmer racing or pats yamaha to name a few off the top of my head.
yamaha usually uses 6004 in the idler wheels and 6204 in the rear wheels. i usually buy them in a sleeve of 10 from our local power sports aftermarket store as i tend to use that many every couple of years pre seasoning a minimum of 5 sleds (or more) a year. a couple of good guys to buy from that are sponsors on here are barn of parts, port yamaha, ulmer racing or pats yamaha to name a few off the top of my head.
Kestrell
Newbie
Alright, thanks. I'll check them out.
Kestrell
Newbie
Wow, I checked the rest of the Idler Wheels, they are all rough and sticky! Looks like I should replace all the bearings.
There are two on the top that go through a shaft that looks like it bolts to the side of the snowmobile. Do I just take this whole shaft off in order to get at the wheel bearings?
How about these ones near the shock? Is there anything I should consider before taking those off? Does the shock make it hard to get back on?
Thanks,
-K
There are two on the top that go through a shaft that looks like it bolts to the side of the snowmobile. Do I just take this whole shaft off in order to get at the wheel bearings?
How about these ones near the shock? Is there anything I should consider before taking those off? Does the shock make it hard to get back on?
Thanks,
-K
- Joined
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1997 et410t/r
1988 vk 540
yes, you just pull the bolts out to drop the shaft out to replace or repack the bearings in the wheels.
if the shock is good it can make your life difficult getting it back in but it is still doable. take the long end of the springs off of their pertch at the bottom on the rail and only put them back on when everything is in and tight.
if the shock is good it can make your life difficult getting it back in but it is still doable. take the long end of the springs off of their pertch at the bottom on the rail and only put them back on when everything is in and tight.
Kestrell
Newbie
Hmm, sounds foreboding, but I'll give it a try.
Should I take the springs off before I try to put the new rear axle back in? The old one was still under a surprising amount of tension, I had to pound it out.
Also, can the C3 version of bearings be used? They are more readily available than the normal "CN" version.
Should I take the springs off before I try to put the new rear axle back in? The old one was still under a surprising amount of tension, I had to pound it out.
Also, can the C3 version of bearings be used? They are more readily available than the normal "CN" version.
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1988 vk 540
as long as the dimensions are the same on the bearings, it is all good.
the rear axle was most likely seized in the bearings/spacers/adjusters. i bet the new one will go in not too bad. don't loose any of the washers that protect the rail from the spacers digging in. springs off or on will not make any difference i have found in assembling it.
the rear axle was most likely seized in the bearings/spacers/adjusters. i bet the new one will go in not too bad. don't loose any of the washers that protect the rail from the spacers digging in. springs off or on will not make any difference i have found in assembling it.
Kestrell
Newbie
Good deal. I'll give it a go when the parts come in. Thanks for your help.
Kestrell
Newbie
Kestrell
Newbie
- Joined
- Jun 1, 2004
- Messages
- 7,740
- Location
- sudbury on
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2016 apex xtx
2011 apex xtx
2009 phaser rtx/x
1997 et410t/r
1988 vk 540
that one is on a shaft that goes across to the other side. you need to pull the wheel on the other side, unload the springs and tap it out without messing up the threads on the other end.
