RedPhazer
Expert
Hi Guys,
I have close to 6500 miles on my 2007 Phazer and am wondering about idler wheel maintenance and bearing service/replacement. My buddy was able to pop off the dust shields on the idler bearings of his Attack and re-pack the bearings with grease. At any rate, I have the following questions...
1. At how many miles should the bearings be serviced or replaced? Do you guys recommend trying to remove the dust shields and re-grease the bearings or just replace them?
2. It is my understanding that the 2007 model idler wheels did not have replacable bearings. Can anyone confirm this? If so, I would like to replace them with wheels that have replacable bearings... should I just order up the 2010 Yamaha wheels or can someone recommend an aftermarket wheel that may be better or cheaper?
Thanks in advance for any help and/or advice!
I have close to 6500 miles on my 2007 Phazer and am wondering about idler wheel maintenance and bearing service/replacement. My buddy was able to pop off the dust shields on the idler bearings of his Attack and re-pack the bearings with grease. At any rate, I have the following questions...
1. At how many miles should the bearings be serviced or replaced? Do you guys recommend trying to remove the dust shields and re-grease the bearings or just replace them?
2. It is my understanding that the 2007 model idler wheels did not have replacable bearings. Can anyone confirm this? If so, I would like to replace them with wheels that have replacable bearings... should I just order up the 2010 Yamaha wheels or can someone recommend an aftermarket wheel that may be better or cheaper?
Thanks in advance for any help and/or advice!
marpolsdofer
TY 4 Stroke Guru
On the 07 skid I pulled out yesterday (using an iddleer wheel as a 4th wheel in my 08 skid). The inside wheel had a replacable bearing. Puul out the wheel, use snap ring pillers, then oush it out. Easy!!!!!
I dont know when they should be replaced but I usally cheak for free play and common wear. I dont see the part numbers or an item for bearings in parts diagram.
I would go to a hardware store and find the mech. Give him the bearing measerment and he gan give all types. High speed, enclosed, open cased, heavy duty, long distance, standerd small bearing for mowers, ext. I probley would be cheaper as well. Since I use to work at one and my dad still works there as the mechanic, I always scheak there first, exspecially with the discount.
I dont know when they should be replaced but I usally cheak for free play and common wear. I dont see the part numbers or an item for bearings in parts diagram.
I would go to a hardware store and find the mech. Give him the bearing measerment and he gan give all types. High speed, enclosed, open cased, heavy duty, long distance, standerd small bearing for mowers, ext. I probley would be cheaper as well. Since I use to work at one and my dad still works there as the mechanic, I always scheak there first, exspecially with the discount.
fraolib
Expert
your not gonna wanna buy yamaha wheels i would deff go aftermarket, i bought a yamaha one and it was a little over $50
spike337
TY 4 Stroke Master
I do mine every season, BUT not all Yamaha bearings can be done. Most you have to do while the bearing is still in the wheel, so that probably isn't the best way. Depends on how much you can spend i guess?
marpolsdofer
TY 4 Stroke Guru
spike337 said:I do mine every season, BUT not all Yamaha bearings can be done. Most you have to do while the bearing is still in the wheel, so that probably isn't the best way. Depends on how much you can spend i guess?
Even if they dont come out becaues they are bolded aroung the bearing this is also what I do. Get a over sized outer diamiter bearing.

biffdotorg
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I just rolled over 3,000 miles on my '07 fx. I had not done much maintenance on the skid other than it was lubricated when hyfax was changed and the track was changed.
After a nice 85 mile trail run on Saturday, I took it out for a few miles on Sunday and it feels like one of the guide wheels on the top rear of the skid has seized. Not sure if something in the suspension broke to have caused this or if a bearing has gone.
All I know is one wheel is actually squared off and clunking horribly now. I limped it home and started hitting the parts catalog to see what this is going to run me. Those top wheels look to be about $50 each and bearings at $24 each.
I am assuming those skid parts are considered consumable items? Or is this something that would be covered under my YES warranty?
When I first heard this horrible clunking underneith, I was sure I had the dreaded broken link that so many experienced, but the shocks are all solid and there is no play in that portion of the skid.
Thanks for any advice you can give.
After a nice 85 mile trail run on Saturday, I took it out for a few miles on Sunday and it feels like one of the guide wheels on the top rear of the skid has seized. Not sure if something in the suspension broke to have caused this or if a bearing has gone.
All I know is one wheel is actually squared off and clunking horribly now. I limped it home and started hitting the parts catalog to see what this is going to run me. Those top wheels look to be about $50 each and bearings at $24 each.
I am assuming those skid parts are considered consumable items? Or is this something that would be covered under my YES warranty?
When I first heard this horrible clunking underneith, I was sure I had the dreaded broken link that so many experienced, but the shocks are all solid and there is no play in that portion of the skid.
Thanks for any advice you can give.
fraolib
Expert
one of the wheels behind the tortion springs on mine locked up last year and flat spotted like u said yours is. i paid around $50 for the wheel. bearing came with it.

biffdotorg
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Good to know, I may just pull the skid to get the wheel out and start there. I would doubt that it is covered by my warranty.
That's exactly the one that stopped spinning on me. The squared off wheel could the clunking I hear.
That's exactly the one that stopped spinning on me. The squared off wheel could the clunking I hear.
fraolib
Expert
yea
warranty does not cover bearings so...... no its not covered
warranty does not cover bearings so...... no its not covered
Grimm
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You can replace them with Yamaha wheels, they have a cheaper priced one and are a direct replacement, link here: http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/acces ... etail.aspx
If you're stock wheels look like these ones, then the bearings are replaceable.
If you're stock wheels look like these ones, then the bearings are replaceable.

biffdotorg
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Ok, word back from the dealer.
The wheels are both squared off. They are unsure as to why the seized up. So $50 each for the wheel with included bearing.
Of course, as they took the skid out they noticed the w-arm is cracked. They are checking for the price on the replacement arm, but noted that the recommended way to fix this is the updated suspension kit for $375!!
I had heard this was the only real way to fix this dreaded link issue, but some got that when the link failed. Now that my w-arm is cracked, they want to charge for the whole kit. I think the w-arm alone is worth around $200.
Anyone got that number to Yamaha to check on service bulletins on the skid? Or is it worth looking into at this time and just chalk it up to parts failing in the wrong order to make a claim?
Thanks for any help you can give me.
Mark
The wheels are both squared off. They are unsure as to why the seized up. So $50 each for the wheel with included bearing.
Of course, as they took the skid out they noticed the w-arm is cracked. They are checking for the price on the replacement arm, but noted that the recommended way to fix this is the updated suspension kit for $375!!
I had heard this was the only real way to fix this dreaded link issue, but some got that when the link failed. Now that my w-arm is cracked, they want to charge for the whole kit. I think the w-arm alone is worth around $200.
Anyone got that number to Yamaha to check on service bulletins on the skid? Or is it worth looking into at this time and just chalk it up to parts failing in the wrong order to make a claim?
Thanks for any help you can give me.
Mark
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