2" challenger or 1.75 BC

[fxnytro1050]

Need some help
Contemplating on gettin the 2" but not sure about t fitting. I will be having one if I know I can make it work without changing the drivers.
But are there any big differences in the 2" or 1.75?

 

[Mtnviper]

A 2" will fit with the stock 9 tooth drivers and exchanger/tunnel protectors removed no problem.
As for 2" or 1.75", it really depends on what type of riding that you like to do? If it's mostly off trail/deeper snow then I would go with the 2".
For trail riding or mostly trail riding with some off trail once in awhile, I probably would go with the 1.75".

 

[fxnytro1050]

ok. well id probably go with the 2" then. I got a 136 ext kit on the way to so hopefully I have a good year.
As for those stud guards I already have a 1.5 intense installed and I took about a half inch off them guards. I woulda toom em.off all together but its alot closer to the rad then I thought. I already had to do a rad replacement and I know how much it is and how big of a hassle it is. Really do not want to have to do it again. But do you think if I made them guards only stick off abot a 1/4" would i get a 2" to go on without rubbing?

 

[natedawgedog]

ok. well id probably go with the 2" then. I got a 136 ext kit on the way to so hopefully I have a good year.
As for those stud guards I already have a 1.5 intense installed and I took about a half inch off them guards. I woulda toom em.off all together but its alot closer to the rad then I thought. I already had to do a rad replacement and I know how much it is and how big of a hassle it is. Really do not want to have to do it again. But do you think if I made them guards only stick off abot a 1/4" would i get a 2" to go on without rubbing?

if the guards are only on there a 1/4" you will not get any protection out of them anyways, and if if rubs on them at all when cut down that far it will start cutting into the lugs of your track. just take them completly off.

what happened to the radiator that you had to replace it?

 

[fxnytro1050]

long story short. first year i had the nytro. went over a small drift, lifted the skis and landed on a rock the size of your hand. put a big hole in the rad. yold see the back of the motor clearly from up in under. cost 1450 in parts and labour.

 

[natedawgedog]

long story short. first year i had the nytro. went over a small drift, lifted the skis and landed on a rock the size of your hand. put a big hole in the rad. yold see the back of the motor clearly from up in under. cost 1450 in parts and labour.

dang, that sucks. I dont think the protecters would have done anything to help with something like that tho.
do you have Roest skid plate? if not you should, it goes past the lower radiator to give you a bit to give you protection from situations like that, mine has saved my engine/radiator from that happining to mine twice now.

 

[fxnytro1050]

yamaha did compensate a little bit. there was a few cases of that hapining and the cover the labour expense. all wr had to do was buy the rad which was 415$. No i dont have the skid plate. i just have the regular blue belly pan.
Id say ill get them stud guads down as close as possible. see wha happens. I am sort of mechanically inclined but really do not want to take the chance on clupping the rad woth a zip cut. really do not want the ras expense on top of a 136 ext and new track lol. that sklhit gets expensive.

 

[Mtnviper]

It not to bad of a job to cut out the heat exchanger protectors while the track and drive axle are out. A cut-off wheel works well and what I do is cut/grind the welds themselves. Besure to go at it slowly checking your progress as you go. When you take your time, its easier to make sure that you don't cut/grind to deep and strike coolant.

 

[fxnytro1050]

still risky tho lol. im ginna get the 2" so if I buys it its going to have to go on no matter what happens so i guess ill have to cut them to a certain point anyways.
also id say its better to use a die grinder with a small zip cut. id say you cpuld get a closer and easier cut with one of them then a rehular angle grinder.

 

[Mtnviper]

still risky tho lol. im ginna get the 2" so if I buys it its going to have to go on no matter what happens so i guess ill have to cut them to a certain point anyways.
also id say its better to use a die grinder with a small zip cut. id say you cpuld get a closer and easier cut with one of them then a rehular angle grinder.

Yeah I understand what you mean! I should clarify that the cut off wheel is mounted in an air powered die grinder tool. Its lighter and a little easier to handle then my angle grinder.
The easiet way to do it without damaging the heat exchanger, is to cut off protectors at the weld where it attaches to the protector itself. Then once the protector is off, slowly grind/cut the weld down on the exchanger.
I ground mine down fairly smooth, but its ok to leave some of the remaining weld on the exchanger as there is plenty of clearance between the remaining portion of the weld and the track. Better to leave some weld remaining than striking coolant!

Bill