Rove44
Extreme
a few posts ago a guy mentioned how to get rid of the 2 sec. delay on the rx1s something about loading the secondary 10 degrees tighter. will this work? and if so how do i go about doing this?
99SRX700
Extreme
OK, I am no clutch expert. This is something that was mentioned to me at the end of last season and I only put a couple hundred miles on tops after making this change but it eliminated the delay and didn't seem to hurt anything else. Since I didn't put that many miles on I am not sure about how it will effect belt life etc. but it seemed to be working fine for me. Any feedback by the cutching experts on this site would be greatfully appreciated. I am guessing its too small of a change to cause any big problems, but it does get rid of that delay.
Step 1
Remove the side panels so you have easy access to the secondary clutch. With side panels removed loosen the three nuts on the outside of the secondary evenly. When you get to the end of the threads on each nut make sure you put pressure on the helix and remove all three nuts before slowly releasing it. Once you have removed those nuts the secondary will come loose with a twisting motion as the spring forces it around and towards you. Its not hard but get good grip so this happens slowly.
Step 2
Now you have the helix off, next you will want to notice how the spring is held within the secondary. There are holes that each end of the spring sits in, and each hole is numbered. Its here where you will be making the change. By placing the spring in different holes you change the amount of twist it applies when you rotate the helix to reinstall it. This is the preload on the spring and therefore controls how stiff the secondary clutch is and thats how it will effect your shifting. The stock setting has the spring set in holes 3 and 3 (which is 60 degrees). You will be able to see this for yourself when you remove the helix (believe me its self explanitory).
Step 3
This is where we make the change. When you put the helix back on and set the spring up you will want to use holes 6 and 1 (70 degrees). This will give you 10 degrees more twist on the spring and will tighten the secondary clutch therefore giving you a faster back shift and eliminating that delay. Once you get the spring in the right holes simply twist the helix so that it lines up with the bolts, install and tighten the nuts down (I think the manual calls for around 10 ft/lbs on those so don't go crazy tightening them) and your good to go.
Just understand that all you want to do is make that spring that holds the secondary closed stiffer. Keep this in mind and as you remove the helix you will know what to do and you won't even need the directions. All you need to know is use holes 6 and 1 instead of 3 and 3.
I did this with my sled sitting next to my trailer while my buddies put their snowsuits on so that should give you an idea of how easy it is.
If you try this please provide feedback. I want to hear how it works for everyone else.
Step 1
Remove the side panels so you have easy access to the secondary clutch. With side panels removed loosen the three nuts on the outside of the secondary evenly. When you get to the end of the threads on each nut make sure you put pressure on the helix and remove all three nuts before slowly releasing it. Once you have removed those nuts the secondary will come loose with a twisting motion as the spring forces it around and towards you. Its not hard but get good grip so this happens slowly.
Step 2
Now you have the helix off, next you will want to notice how the spring is held within the secondary. There are holes that each end of the spring sits in, and each hole is numbered. Its here where you will be making the change. By placing the spring in different holes you change the amount of twist it applies when you rotate the helix to reinstall it. This is the preload on the spring and therefore controls how stiff the secondary clutch is and thats how it will effect your shifting. The stock setting has the spring set in holes 3 and 3 (which is 60 degrees). You will be able to see this for yourself when you remove the helix (believe me its self explanitory).
Step 3
This is where we make the change. When you put the helix back on and set the spring up you will want to use holes 6 and 1 (70 degrees). This will give you 10 degrees more twist on the spring and will tighten the secondary clutch therefore giving you a faster back shift and eliminating that delay. Once you get the spring in the right holes simply twist the helix so that it lines up with the bolts, install and tighten the nuts down (I think the manual calls for around 10 ft/lbs on those so don't go crazy tightening them) and your good to go.
Just understand that all you want to do is make that spring that holds the secondary closed stiffer. Keep this in mind and as you remove the helix you will know what to do and you won't even need the directions. All you need to know is use holes 6 and 1 instead of 3 and 3.
I did this with my sled sitting next to my trailer while my buddies put their snowsuits on so that should give you an idea of how easy it is.
If you try this please provide feedback. I want to hear how it works for everyone else.
99SRX700
Extreme
PS not sure how this will work with '03's and '04's. From what I understand the clutching on those years is different.
cj7e
Newbie
has anyone done this on an 04
rx1mtn
Expert
The secondary is the same on 03 & 04 even on my 06 Attak. The differance is the amount of twist that is stock. My 03 RX1 Mtn. was at 60 degrees. I have run it as high as 90 degrees with not much problem, but it works best at 70 degrees. It seems that an extra 10 degrees from stock is the norm. Last year I tried a 0.060 thick washer between the helix and the body, that lets the secondary "open" just a little wider to gain some top end speed.
cj7e
Newbie
I am going to make the change this week and test it out this weekend.
It will be nice to get rid of that slight delay.
thanks
It will be nice to get rid of that slight delay.
thanks
Mikey
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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I noticed that nobody has told you to remove the belt before you do this as it will be easier in the end. ALSO watch when you remove the three nuts as the helix is under tension. It will want to turn and it will want to fly off its not serious "im going to kill you" pressure but it still could cause pain.
josepy121380
Newbie
this has helped me also. i will be doing this tonight
black john
TY 4 Stroke Guru
2 secound
before doing this check your belt defecton this will do the same thing.
before doing this check your belt defecton this will do the same thing.
99SRX700
Extreme
Woops, I did forget to mention the part about taking the belt off.
josepy121380
Newbie
well i did this tonight. took 2 tries. first time i didnt twist the spring to the right and then tighten it down. i put it straight on. went to drive it and it went nowhere and made god awful noises. took it apart again realized what i needed to do. test drive in and out of the garage seemed ok. will find out for sure tomorrow.
Rove44
Extreme
I changed the settings on the secondary, Very easy to do . i went out yesterday and i deff. notice a difference throttle response is immediate. Thanks for the tip. One more question, will i lose any top end with this adjustment?
99SRX700
Extreme
I'm not sure about the top end. Again, I have had limited time on the machine since making this change. Even now with the snow we have even though I have been riding the conditions have not been right for a true top end test so I don't know. When I first made the adjustment I did get a good squeeze out of it and seemed to feel the same.
cj7e
Newbie
I adjusted mine and tested it against my buddys. we swapped a few times and it seems to make a little differnce. It seemed to pull hard from the start to end while his would have a slight delay. Didnt seem to do anything to the top end but I would need a frozen lake to realy test it.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
More twist on the Secondary Spring will give you a faster backshift. But, ... it may take a bit off the top end and may actually slow acceleration a bit. Faster backshift would be useful in coming out of a corner and wanting to WOT out of it. More twist would position the Secondary in a "lower gear" faster.
I spent all P.M. today testing different combos today. 70 degrees on a White Spring slowed down the acceleration (on my sled with my setup) noticeably over setting it at 60 degrees. Also, I lost ~ 4 mph on top end, when set at 70 degrees.
I guess it all depends on what you want. Every change you make has some sort of a trade-off.
I spent all P.M. today testing different combos today. 70 degrees on a White Spring slowed down the acceleration (on my sled with my setup) noticeably over setting it at 60 degrees. Also, I lost ~ 4 mph on top end, when set at 70 degrees.
I guess it all depends on what you want. Every change you make has some sort of a trade-off.
