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2003 overheating, I know, I know

subysti04

Extreme
Joined
Nov 22, 2009
Messages
58
Location
East Longmeadow Massachusetts
I know this has been beat to death and I've searched all the old posts. I've checked the coolant and yes it was almost pure coolant. I've tried to bleed it but not sure if I did it right. I have the back of the sled on a stand but is that high enough? How can I be sure all the air is out? I removed the bleeder screw and started the engine and it started flowing out pretty steady. I've also added a rear tunnel heat exchanger last year and water wetter this year. it still overheats. How often do thermostats go? The running boards do get hot so I don't think its the thermostat. The overflow is about 3/4 full and when it gets hot, it goes right to the top and starts pissing out the hose. should it really expand that much?
 

If the coolers are hot the thermostat is opening. I would say the T-stat is good. But you can test it by putting it in a pot of water and bring the temp up to 165-170 degrees F. It should start opening them and be full open at 180 degrees F.

Are you riding in loose snow or hard packed or icy conditions. Snow has to actually hit the coolers for them to work.

Did the sled ever run cool after your cooler mod?

Did you get a temp alarm/light? If not, how do you know you are actually overheating?

Are you just overfilling it? If you over fill it, the overage will be passed out.

A head gasket failure will cause the coolant to be pushed out of the system. Is there any discoloration or oil showing up in the coolant overflow bottle. A compression check will definitively tell you if you have a bad head gasket.
 
The trails were a mix of packed and loose snow. not much ice. It did seem to run better when the cooler was first added but I can't remember. This is my wife's sled but it was real bad this past weekend. I drove it back on out trip. symtooms were that a couple of minutes after restarting the lovertemp ight would come on, I would keep driving it trying to kick a lot of snow up to cool it down, eventually the light would go out and it would be good for 15-20 minutes then go back on. It seemed to go on more oftem when going up hill and go off when driving down hill. We were in a large group, 14 sleds, and there would always be a stop for a water bar or road then it would go back on in a few minutes. If we stopped for 15 minutes for a rest then light would always go back on when first started. i'll do a compression check tomorrow, what shoulf it be? I noticed a little rust colored sruff in the overflow but not much so I figure its just crud.
 
Also, you might want to run some "water wetter" in the system. I ride here in May and June sometimes, and it really does work. You can buy it most auto parts stores.Just calculate the oz for size of the system capacity, I can let you know how much to add if you need.
 
You don't want pure coolant, you want a 50/50 mix. Water is a better fluid for heat transfer than ethylene glycol.
 
subysti04 said:
... i'll do a compression check tomorrow, what should it be? ...

Please see attached file for Compression Check Instructions. Compression Check info starts at the bottom of the first page. When the sled is cooled down a couple hours, is the return hose still hard?

Also, I would get the rear end of the Sled up in the air about 3 feet and then open up the coolant system via the vent plug or loosen the hose to the relatively new rear cooler, if there is no vent plug and check for air. This is just to be certain you got the air all out.

Also, if you pack snow on the Running boards, does it stay cool enough to keep the light off? If it does, then you just do not have enough snow hitting the coolers.

Did you take out the thermostat and test it? What was your result?

If the compression is good and the thermostat is good and you can not keep the High Temp light off with snow on the running boards, maybe the temp sensor is bad. You can test that. See the other attachment.
 

Attachments

  • 03RX1 Compression Check.pdf
    66.4 KB · Views: 6,653
  • 03RX1 Coolant Temp Sensor Testing.pdf
    43.8 KB · Views: 289
I hate to ask this because it implies that you haven't looked at the obvious... Are you sure it is the water temperature with the warning light or could it be something else that uses the same light? I ask because my oil light would come on at times. It looked just like the temperature light, it just had a different indicator below on the display. My issue was a faulty sending unit on the dipstick. Once I replaced that, my issues were gone. I was riding my warrior last weekend and didn't have any overheating issues at all... no mods... no water wetter...
 


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