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2005 vector overheating fast

hibshman25 said:
Are the coolers getting warm at all?

If you idle sled with cap off are there air bubbles coming out?

You may have an air lock now, but the source of your original overheat problem when it first happened would not have been an air lock because you never introduced air into the system on your previous 70 mile ride. The only way I see an airlock happening is a head gasket leak that injects air into the coolant system and disrupts flow.

The other option could just be a faulty temp sensor. Sensor may be providing a bad reading to ECU. Coolers may not feel that hot because it really isn't that hot.
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Still Fighting this problem as the sled sat for 2 years. Drained coolant, refilled, bleed system multiple times and got coolant flowing in all heat exchangers as all heated up in the 3 to 5 mins per manual. Ran sled 400 feet overheated. (we tried this 6x) New thermostat, pulled most coolant lines when drained didn't see any blockages. Didn' pull the lines in front of exchangers yet. Repeated bleed procedure like 6 times. Stumped. Tryng a pressure tester next for leaks.
 

RSVECTORFREAK said:
Still Fighting this problem as the sled sat for 2 years. Drained coolant, refilled, bleed system multiple times and got coolant flowing in all heat exchangers as all heated up in the 3 to 5 mins per manual. Ran sled 400 feet overheated. (we tried this 6x) New thermostat, pulled most coolant lines when drained didn't see any blockages. Didn' pull the lines in front of exchangers yet. Repeated bleed procedure like 6 times. Stumped. Tryng a pressure tester next for leaks.
Click to expand...

Sounds like your water pump is toast.
 
I've never had any problem bleeding these cooling systems. I fill the system then run the engine long enough to open the thermostat. With it running top off the coolant until it stops taking it then cap it and let it cool. After it cools top off coolant then run it through another heat cycle and keep adding coolant after it cools until it no longer takes it. Usually 2-3 heat cycles will bleed all the air out.

If it's pushing coolant out the overflow it may have a blown head gasket. I've done several head gaskets on these engines over the years but have not yet ran into a coolant pump failure.
 
grizztracks said:
I've never had any problem bleeding these cooling systems. I fill the system then run the engine long enough to open the thermostat. With it running top off the coolant until it stops taking it then cap it and let it cool. After it cools top off coolant then run it through another heat cycle and keep adding coolant after it cools until it no longer takes it. Usually 2-3 heat cycles will bleed all the air out.

If it's pushing coolant out the overflow it may have a blown head gasket. I've done several head gaskets on these engines over the years but have not yet ran into a coolant pump failure.
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Ouch! It held pressure at 14lbs when we tested the system. I thought a head gasket would show a drop.
 
Engine compression along with heat expansion will find it's way into the cooling ports if the head gasket is bad and/or head is warped. The engine compression is up around 200 psi which is well above the maximum running pressure of the cooling system.
 
And it will still run good and idle with a bad gasket or warped head??

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Yep, not enough compression lost to make a noticeable difference in how the engine runs. All the head gasket jobs I've done so far ran great. They just couldn't be ran down the trails without pushing coolant out and overheating.
 
grizztracks said:
Yep, not enough compression lost to make a noticeable difference in how the engine runs. All the head gasket jobs I've done so far ran great. They just couldn't be ran down the trails without pushing coolant out and overheating.
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Yeah this one wouldn't go past 400 feet and it's hot already.

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Dealer said motor has internal damage because the shaft that spins the water pump isn't turning(balancer shaft) and they are broken pieces in water pump.
 
The pump drives off of the counter shaft so if the counter shaft isn't turning I'd think you'd have a vibration. Pump drive gears bad because the pump came apart and locked up?
 
grizztracks said:
The pump drives off of the counter shaft so if the counter shaft isn't turning I'd think you'd have a vibration. Pump drive gears bad because the pump came apart and locked up?
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Man I wish I knew what to do at this point Grizz. Dealer said too much $$ not worth fixing. Do I buy a used motor probably not worth it at the cost then the labor to install. Ugh
 
RSVECTORFREAK said:
Man I wish I knew what to do at this point Grizz. Dealer said too much $$ not worth fixing. Do I buy a used motor probably not worth it at the cost then the labor to install. Ugh
Click to expand...
Sorry for the bad news ! Lots of Apex's and Vectors out there. Part it out and find another. How many miles were on it ?
 
DGZRT said:
Sorry for the bad news ! Lots of Apex's and Vectors out there. Part it out and find another. How many miles were on it ?
Click to expand...
9641 I'm having it fixed. Too much into it to let go now. :)

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