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2005 vector overheating fast

.....i bet your cap does not allow to keep enought pressure in the system. Heat exchange performance is proportional to pressure in a close system. That said, heat your system up some then crack your cap open. Wear gloves, cover with rags and wear eyes protection...
 

Have tons of thermostats here. $10 plus $6 to ship via priority mail.
would you have one for a 2007 RS Vector GT ? I think the part is 8FA-W1258-01-00 that I could buy for that price?
 
would you have one for a 2007 RS Vector GT ? I think the part is 8FA-W1258-01-00 that I could buy for that price?

I would call Travis....717-821-9639 Always the fastest way to get a response.
 
Well new thermostat didn't do anything got a mile out of it and temp lights came on and symbol! Does anyone know the proper way to bleed these coolant systems???
 
Did you run it without a tstat?
 
None else than let it idle cold, then hot which should trap bubbles passing thru the reservoir. After purge & refill i lift the back and open the purge of the coolant bypass between floorboard at the rear.

To another... did you aligned the breather hole of the thermostat with the dot on the housing ? Might not matter that much but from where your at, every little count.
 
No i didn't run it without a stat! I'll be looking to make sure the hole lined up. If all else fails I'll rip the entire coolant system apart to figure this out!! Would it shoot coolant out the back bleeder hole like 6 feet if the pump wasn't working?? I think it's just trapped air I can't get out of the system myself!
 
Get the sled under a hoist.

Rad cap loose.

Raise front end 2-3 feet off the ground.

Run the sled till hot.

If there's air in the system it will come out.
 
The service manual says the rear end but I remember years ago we did the front end lift too! At this point I'm ready to try the front end lift again!!
 
The service manual says the rear end but I remember years ago we did the front end lift too! At this point I'm ready to try the front end lift again!!
I've done it that way too...much easier than using the bleeder.

Another option you should consider is to flush and replace your coolant. 10 year old coolant can't be that effective. After draining your coolant, disconnect your fittings and inspect, particularly your heat exchangers. It's possible there is a blockage. I've seen pics over in the Nytro forum where the radiator inlet/outlet were plugged solid with "gunk".
 
I've changed the coolant multiple times already but never inspected all the fittings! I'm going to try the front end lift shortly and if that doesn't work I'll start tearing it apart!
 
I pull out the t-stat and run it first without it before you start ripping everything apart. Using voice recognition on the phone, sorry for the weird spelling.
 
Are the coolers getting warm at all?

If you idle sled with cap off are there air bubbles coming out?

You may have an air lock now, but the source of your original overheat problem when it first happened would not have been an air lock because you never introduced air into the system on your previous 70 mile ride. The only way I see an airlock happening is a head gasket leak that injects air into the coolant system and disrupts flow.

The other option could just be a faulty temp sensor. Sensor may be providing a bad reading to ECU. Coolers may not feel that hot because it really isn't that hot.
 
Well I did open the cap 2 miles from ending that 70 mile ride to check out the coolant color and the next morning when I went to use it I opened the hood and noticed I didn't tighten it all the way and it was loose!! Hence the air introduction!! And no the coolers aren't heating up!
 


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