Swiss Sledder
TY 4 Stroke God
XPooGuy, thanks for sticking your neck out. I believe you read the 5% of the time bottoming out being O.K. in SnowTech. Their point was that if you don't bottom out every once in a while, then your suspension is too stiff for your riding style, i.e. you could ride a softer setting and let the suspension take the bumps instead of your back, knees, etc.
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
Sounds right suisse :wink: Although I think Supertrax had something on the topic too?
I have a pile of snowmomags around the house, my wife hates them because in the off season I start looking at spending money on things I don't need :lol:
Now that the snow is here, I just gas and go :wink: That's what I LOVE about the RX1
OT. Oh yeah, was it you who were looking for ideas on what to pack? I think a sewing kit and fish line would be a good thing to have incase something rips (bags, pants, socks, etc...) - I had to sew on new buckles for my saddlebags :wink: I've also fixed windshield bags before (not a good place for oil containers)
XPG
I have a pile of snowmomags around the house, my wife hates them because in the off season I start looking at spending money on things I don't need :lol:
Now that the snow is here, I just gas and go :wink: That's what I LOVE about the RX1
OT. Oh yeah, was it you who were looking for ideas on what to pack? I think a sewing kit and fish line would be a good thing to have incase something rips (bags, pants, socks, etc...) - I had to sew on new buckles for my saddlebags :wink: I've also fixed windshield bags before (not a good place for oil containers)
XPG
Swiss Sledder
TY 4 Stroke God
Yep, that was me. Good idea on the sewing kit. I have a couple kits compliments of some fancy hotels on business trips. It is now on my list. I know what you mean by reading the magazines during the off season. People over here laugh at me when I am reading them in June.
race24x
TY 4 Stroke Master
OK guys I hate to do it because you will think I am not mechanical at all but I was a technician for GM for 8 years. Some of the terms used I do not kno where to find the parts. General terms I get like the limiter which is a strap on my MXZ appernatly is a bolt on the RX1???? Next spring rate I have a race car so I understand weight distibution of harder springs in the front. This wold make my race car push in a corner. But about all of these shock adjustments and skid stuff for the rear I need alittle more help. Please work with me on figuring out where all of these adjustments are etc. I am not a dummy I do all of my work myself that I can I also have a 2000 Suzuki Hayabusa GSXR 1300 that I have done all of my adjusting on. All of my own work on all of my other bikes and sleds. But I have never had one that I was this far off on the suspension. Point me in the right direction I will document each adjustment I have made and let you know how each one turns out. Where do I get the new springs to try them???
PS I am 6 foot 4 260 pounds with gear
PS I am 6 foot 4 260 pounds with gear
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
Welcome Race24x
One of the things I like about the Pro-action is the design of the limiter strap adjustment. You simply back off one of the nuts and count your turns on the other, then duplicate it on the other side.
Which sled do you have? '04 has longer swaybar links and straight rate springs. Pioneer Performance carries springs, stiffer bars, and wider front end kits, as well as a host of other goodies.
Is the suspension too stiff or too soft?
Mine was too stiff from the dealer :evil: . I moved the FRA to soft and it bottomed too easily :evil: . I found a tip on this Forum to back off the rear (horizontal) shock pre-load and put the FRA (3 position pivot point) on the lowest position (hardest setting) Then I added 1/4" of center shock pre-load, 4" Roetins, and tightened the limiter straps so there was 1" of thread left. This made a HUGE difference in the overall ride and handling characteristics. Keep in mind that these are adjustments to an '04 shorty.
I'm now zeroing in on weight transfer under acceleration and have adjusted the control rods just to where the paint is covered - to decrease the weight transfer. I have a copy of the Pro-action shop manual so I may be able to help you out.
You might try the same adjustments except start with rear pre-load at #2 or #3 and close to 3/8" more center preload. Sit on your sled in full gear and have a buddy lift the bumper then let your weight settle. Next have him check the gaps on the top and bottom of the rear control rod spacers (white discs) you should be 75/25 to 50/50 top/bottom. More gap on the bottom=softer ride. You can cut one in 1/2, or buy thinner and thicker spacers too.
Hope this helps 8)
One of the things I like about the Pro-action is the design of the limiter strap adjustment. You simply back off one of the nuts and count your turns on the other, then duplicate it on the other side.
Which sled do you have? '04 has longer swaybar links and straight rate springs. Pioneer Performance carries springs, stiffer bars, and wider front end kits, as well as a host of other goodies.
Is the suspension too stiff or too soft?
Mine was too stiff from the dealer :evil: . I moved the FRA to soft and it bottomed too easily :evil: . I found a tip on this Forum to back off the rear (horizontal) shock pre-load and put the FRA (3 position pivot point) on the lowest position (hardest setting) Then I added 1/4" of center shock pre-load, 4" Roetins, and tightened the limiter straps so there was 1" of thread left. This made a HUGE difference
in the overall ride and handling characteristics. Keep in mind that these are adjustments to an '04 shorty.I'm now zeroing in on weight transfer under acceleration and have adjusted the control rods just to where the paint is covered - to decrease the weight transfer. I have a copy of the Pro-action shop manual so I may be able to help you out.
You might try the same adjustments except start with rear pre-load at #2 or #3 and close to 3/8" more center preload. Sit on your sled in full gear and have a buddy lift the bumper then let your weight settle. Next have him check the gaps on the top and bottom of the rear control rod spacers (white discs) you should be 75/25 to 50/50 top/bottom. More gap on the bottom=softer ride. You can cut one in 1/2, or buy thinner and thicker spacers too.
Hope this helps 8)
vmaxjohn
Pro
Xpolarisguy, I think you stated something backwards.
When you tighten the limiter straps, is takes weight away from the center shock, and onto the rear the skid and the skis. If you want good transfer, it helps a ton to hace the center shock with some preload and loose straps. When you're on the throttle, the center shock will extend and help the transfer.
Other than that, I concur, lol.
When you tighten the limiter straps, is takes weight away from the center shock, and onto the rear the skid and the skis. If you want good transfer, it helps a ton to hace the center shock with some preload and loose straps. When you're on the throttle, the center shock will extend and help the transfer.
Other than that, I concur, lol.
race24x
TY 4 Stroke Master
Thanks for all of the help guys I have an 03 shorty. I will take a look from your descrition at the rear suspension and see if I can find some of these settings. I love the sled so I hope this makes it somewhat better.
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
vmaxjohn,
Now that you mention it...the track IS pitched somewhat (exageration) when you tighten the strap. My thinking was that tightening the strap actually pulls the front of the rail up, against the applied force of the center shock. Since the center shock spring force is pushing down, tightening the strap puts more resistance on that spring force. I thought the limitter strap aided in shifting weight forward only. I now see how the weight of the sled gets applied to both the skiis and the rear of the skid. Loosening the straps lets the skid rest flatter resulting in better hook-up.
Thanks
Now that you mention it...the track IS pitched somewhat (exageration) when you tighten the strap. My thinking was that tightening the strap actually pulls the front of the rail up, against the applied force of the center shock. Since the center shock spring force is pushing down, tightening the strap puts more resistance on that spring force. I thought the limitter strap aided in shifting weight forward only. I now see how the weight of the sled gets applied to both the skiis and the rear of the skid. Loosening the straps lets the skid rest flatter resulting in better hook-up.Thanks
vmaxjohn
Pro
XPguy...you're on the right track.
The only way tightening the limiter straps would increase your resistance to bottoming, would be if you've got a progressive spring on your center shock, and you bottom out a section of coild. But you're losing travel to do this, and a soft center spring added onto really tight limiters can result in broken arms, since it will be bottoming more often if ridding in the rough stuff.
You want the limiter straps to be used for controling the push in the skis, and 'try' to use it only for that. Adjusting them for slide wear, while sometimes nescesary, isn't always a good idea, especially if you're happy with how it steers and handles.
The only way tightening the limiter straps would increase your resistance to bottoming, would be if you've got a progressive spring on your center shock, and you bottom out a section of coild. But you're losing travel to do this, and a soft center spring added onto really tight limiters can result in broken arms, since it will be bottoming more often if ridding in the rough stuff.
You want the limiter straps to be used for controling the push in the skis, and 'try' to use it only for that. Adjusting them for slide wear, while sometimes nescesary, isn't always a good idea, especially if you're happy with how it steers and handles.
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
Don't get me wrong john,
At least I hope I wasn't looking to decrease bottoming by adjusting the straps or the center shock pre-load :? . I'm only refering to the strap adjustment to put more weight on the front end to get it to bite a little better. That's really the only reason I would tighten them. If I rode deep powder, I'd let them out more. So far tightening the straps has helped a lot.
At least it was my interpretation that tight straps=more ski preasure.
I'm going riding now. 8)
At least I hope I wasn't looking to decrease bottoming by adjusting the straps or the center shock pre-load :? . I'm only refering to the strap adjustment to put more weight on the front end to get it to bite a little better. That's really the only reason I would tighten them. If I rode deep powder, I'd let them out more. So far tightening the straps has helped a lot.
At least it was my interpretation that tight straps=more ski preasure.
I'm going riding now. 8)
I would like to add my two cents worth to this discussion. This suspension issue has been the one that has caused the most disagreement and has defied solution. I don't believe that throwing your suspension away and buying a new one is a solution. I placed an M10 in my 93 V max 4 and it worked great except the first time I landed a jump my studs took out my rear heat exchanger. I might have expected something like this when installing a one size fits all suspension. Incidentally, the instructions did say that Fast doesn't recommend studs. A couple of years later, I installed a Maxximum Performance long travel kit in my 98 SRX 700. It road really good, maybe better than an M10 and studs never ever touched the heat exchanger. What I am trying to say is that the Proaction skid is a very well built piece that has been engineered to fit in the RX1 tunnel and go through its movements without destroying anything. It is quite a bit like the M10 in design and suffers from some of the same problems. The aftermarket is addressing this issue but may not have it figured out yet. I would like to start a discussion where we try and figure out the fundamental problem with this suspension. I have my suspicions but unless anyone wants to hear them will keep my mouth shut.
Honk
TY 4 Stroke Master
LFM, go ahead! would love to hear about your thoughts. I guess I thought that the rear suspension was just really old! Yammi sure could use a new skid! Just keep playing with it, it will get better! At least bearable anyway. Honk
