Homer2002
Newbie
I bought a used 2005 Warrior with 3700 kms on it. Sled is mint so I believe the odometer is actual kms. My drive shaft bearing (chaincase side) failed a couple weeks ago. The bearing must have had a catastrophic failure because all that was left was the outer race in the chaincase. The collar on the drive shaft gouged the chaincase pretty bad so I had to replace it. While I had it apart I replaced all the bearings on the driveshaft and jackshaft including PTO side. Well 900 kms later the same drive shaft bearing failed! I haven't pulled anything apart yet, but the sounds are identical so I am certain it is the same bearing. My question to everyone out there is has anyone had a similar experience or know someone who has? I figure something isn't aligned properly and creating abnormal forces on the bearing. Nothing about the shaft or chaincase mounting area looked bent. Anybody have any ideas. I do a lot of high mile touring and I can't risk another breakdown if I just replace the bearing again. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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check the shaft. it might be bent. other than that i have no clue.
Homer2002
Newbie
I was going to check the driveshaft, but I was looking for other ideas also in case the driveshaft is straight. I actually hope the drive shaft is bent so I can be confident a new driveshaft will solve my problems. Hopefully I get some more replies.
RX1Jim
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
When you replaced the bearings after the first failure did you completely clean every component in the chaincase? Failed bearings generate a lot of junk that will end up destroying the other seal, bearings, chain, etc. if there is any crud left behind. I had a bearing in the chaincase which started to make noise. I took the chaincase completely apart and cleaned every part in carb cleaner prior to reassembly. Did the drive axle bearing which you installed have a seal on both sides it or on just one side?? You may have to press the drivers off the axle to allow you to check it for straightness. Did you check the condition of the axle bearing on the clutch side? This bearing fails much more often, I'd replace that bearing along with the others.
Homer2002
Newbie
ALL bearings were replaced, chaincase was new, seals were new, chain and gears were cleaned in varsol bath, then blown clean and dried. All bearings in the chaincase were Yamaha parts. I believe the drive shaft bearing had 1 seal and the jackshaft bearing had 2. The one on the chaincase cover had none. Everything in the chaincase was either new or cleaned.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
The bearing in the chaincase with 1 seal should have the seal facing INTO the chaincase. This is to keep debris from getting into the bearing and causing it to fail.
Homer2002
Newbie
From the factory the seals were the other way around. I thought maybe the oil would break down the rubber and that was why they were that way. I don't think this is a debris in the case issue. There is something causing an extreme load on that bearing. I am going to get the driveshaft in a lathe today and check it to see if it is straight.
pvsledhead
Newbie
Did you let the drive axle clutch side bearing "self centre" before you tightened the allen screws?(assuming its the same as my Vector)
Put everything without tightening the allen screws and give the sled a few burps on the trackstand to let it go where it wants to be,then tighten the screws.
Might not be related,just throwing it out there
Put everything without tightening the allen screws and give the sled a few burps on the trackstand to let it go where it wants to be,then tighten the screws.
Might not be related,just throwing it out there
blue05warrior
Newbie
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2004
- Messages
- 2
2005 Warrior Bearing Failure
My bearing by the speedo sensor had a major failure last weekend. I also thought it was just a chunk of ice....but then observed speedo was was 0 mph as i was riding.
I have the extended Y.E.S. plan that covered the repair $163.03 in parts and whatever yamaha paid for labor.
It repair parts consisted of 2 bearings, 1 seal, 2 set screws, 1 speedo sensor and 1 speedo (joint) gear.
The rep at yamaha at first said they would not cover the repair but after some heated discussions they caved. Plus I was able to get the $150 trip insurance refund.
I would post some pictures but for some reason they will not attach.
What update are you refering too ? I just got the standard bearings part numbers 93306-20589-00 and 93306-20592-00.
My bearing by the speedo sensor had a major failure last weekend. I also thought it was just a chunk of ice....but then observed speedo was was 0 mph as i was riding.
I have the extended Y.E.S. plan that covered the repair $163.03 in parts and whatever yamaha paid for labor.
It repair parts consisted of 2 bearings, 1 seal, 2 set screws, 1 speedo sensor and 1 speedo (joint) gear.
The rep at yamaha at first said they would not cover the repair but after some heated discussions they caved. Plus I was able to get the $150 trip insurance refund.
I would post some pictures but for some reason they will not attach.
What update are you refering too ? I just got the standard bearings part numbers 93306-20589-00 and 93306-20592-00.
bonzi88
Newbie
2100 miles on '05 Warrior that i bought brand new , driveshaft bearing on chaincase side went. How could a bearing bathed in oil go like that !! Didn't get the extended warrenty thinking that i wouldn't need to on a Yamaha...silly me. disappointed.
Anybody find out what's going on with that bearing. Any alternative bearings to Yamaha ones ??
Anybody find out what's going on with that bearing. Any alternative bearings to Yamaha ones ??
dakine
Veteran
driveshaft bearing with zx-2
I have over tightened my track for the suspension to work properly. I have installed the zx - 2 151. I too thought at first thought I had ice jamming in the tunnel. . I would also like to find out what replacement numbers other than yamaha?
I have over tightened my track for the suspension to work properly. I have installed the zx - 2 151. I too thought at first thought I had ice jamming in the tunnel. . I would also like to find out what replacement numbers other than yamaha?
bonzi88
Newbie
Chaincase side is pretty easy.
25mm id X 52mm od X 15mm wide. Basicly a 6205 series bearing "6205rs ,etc ... starting at $5.00 . Found a NTN extra capacity bearing " BL205Z"
Now clutch side has been much harder with the extended ID lip with the set screws .... still looking. 25mm ( inner id)X 52mm (outer od ) X 15 wide outer race , inner race is 27mm wide with set screws. I guess if i knew the terminolgy of that kind of bearing, would be easier . There's about 2 trillion kinds of bearings out there. My bearing has " NSK UB205 ) which crosses over to dead air ....maybe i try U6205 ....
Any help out there ??
25mm id X 52mm od X 15mm wide. Basicly a 6205 series bearing "6205rs ,etc ... starting at $5.00 . Found a NTN extra capacity bearing " BL205Z"
Now clutch side has been much harder with the extended ID lip with the set screws .... still looking. 25mm ( inner id)X 52mm (outer od ) X 15 wide outer race , inner race is 27mm wide with set screws. I guess if i knew the terminolgy of that kind of bearing, would be easier . There's about 2 trillion kinds of bearings out there. My bearing has " NSK UB205 ) which crosses over to dead air ....maybe i try U6205 ....
Any help out there ??
whits-end
Pro
UB 205 should be a good number. NTN makes one that I've ued in numerous Yammy Pro-Actions.
It's just a 6205 with a collar and set screw.
It's just a 6205 with a collar and set screw.
Highmiler
Expert
Homer2002 said:I bought a used 2005 Warrior with 3700 kms on it. Sled is mint so I believe the odometer is actual kms. My drive shaft bearing (chaincase side) failed a couple weeks ago. The bearing must have had a catastrophic failure because all that was left was the outer race in the chaincase. The collar on the drive shaft gouged the chaincase pretty bad so I had to replace it. While I had it apart I replaced all the bearings on the driveshaft and jackshaft including PTO side. Well 900 kms later the same drive shaft bearing failed! I haven't pulled anything apart yet, but the sounds are identical so I am certain it is the same bearing. My question to everyone out there is has anyone had a similar experience or know someone who has? I figure something isn't aligned properly and creating abnormal forces on the bearing. Nothing about the shaft or chaincase mounting area looked bent. Anybody have any ideas. I do a lot of high mile touring and I can't risk another breakdown if I just replace the bearing again. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
The fact that you bought your machine used makes me wonder if maybe the previous owner might have taken the chaincase apart and forgot to put a spacer during re-assembly. Sounds to me like maybe you're missing the spacer between the bearing and gear on the bottom sprocket. Once you tighten the bolt on the bottom sprocket all strain is pulling on the inner race of that bearing causing it to fail. Go to a microfiche (like hlsm.com) and make sure you have all the parts to assemble properly. Just my 2 cents!!!
Homer2002
Newbie
That spacer you are referring to is called a collar which I have. The first time I did the job I almost forgot it. The second time the bearing failed that collar was "welded" to the inner race of the driveshaft bearing. I'm pretty sure I tightened the set screws on the bearing on the PTO side of the driveshaft before I installed the chaincase, so when I tightened the bolts that secure the chaincase to the tunnel, I put too much pressure on the chaincase bearing. This time I tightened the set screws last to allow the shaft to find its final "home" in that PTO side bearing. Time will tell.
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