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2005 Yamaha RS Vector Overheated......New problems

tjcz71 said:
One of my other questions is the LCD supposed to light up when you turn the key or only after the engine starts? It seems this problem is electrical....thank you
Click to expand...

Gauge pod comes alive after the sled is running. Just like the headlight.
 

tjcz71 said:
I've replaced the head gasket, and the sled is running better, but if I let it idle for too long it stalls out and its very difficult to re-start, if I keep the track in air, on and off the throttle it runs fine....until I let off the throttle, the idle is properly adjusted. One of my other questions is the LCD supposed to light up when you turn the key or only after the engine starts? It seems this problem is electrical....thank you
Click to expand...

Are you sure it's timed properly? If the timing chain is off by a tooth it'll run at higher rpm's but have a difficult time idling.
 
Yep got the timing right on the money, it idles perfect, until it warms up, then starts missing and will stall out. Putting a rectifier in it tmr.....
 
can i suggest somthing a bit weird?

can you try it with an eletric fuel pump? might be having a vacume signal issue with the stock pumps.
 
Tried a different temp-sensor....will look into fuel pumps, but the problem seems electrical now, if its not the rectifier I may look for a cdi...I have a feeling when the stator got as hot as it did, it may have spiked something...
 
What was done to inspect the head/valves when off? I doubt it's the regulator/rectifier. Have you checked to see if it's charging when running? It could be the ECU but I would try to determine if it's fuel or electrical before replacing expensive parts. When it's starting hard you could mist some fuel in the carbs with a spray bottle.
 
I sent the head to a machine shop to be checked, he had to deck it slightly, other than that it was fine, I did try another rectifier today, no change....yes its charging while running. When its hard starting I have tried to spay fuel into carbs, no change.....it just makes it harder to start(flooded) I replaced the rectifier because the stator plugs into it, and that stator got hot! The only other thing I can think of is the ecu....no codes...starts right up when cold...after the heat exchangers get warm to the touch it starts acting up....
 
if this thing got that hot I'd be checking weird things now like valve seals, carb seals and o rings, Fuel pump seals any other coolant seals and possibly water pump. Did you pull the engine out completely to do the work or leave it in....maybe a melted harness somewhere? It will be interesting to see what you find. Do you know how hot it gets before this happens?
 
I don't think it's the ECU because engine heat shouldn't affect it. Although, if you can find a used one it would be worth a try to eliminate the chance of it being the cause. If it got as hot as you say I would be looking at valve guides and seats for damage and I would be a little concerned about the condition of the piston rings. If they got hot enough they could have lost their temper or be sticking.
 
I just bought an ecu on ebay, so we will see what that reveals when it comes in. Im hoping that's it, the compression is still great, 150lbs or so. Cylinder walls looked great while head was off, not blowing any smoke....leak down test seems perfect....How would water pump affect the engine running??? Antifreeze is circulating, but it won't hurt to pull water pump cover. I did all the work without pulling engine completely. What gives the fuel pumps the pulse signal?? Thanks everyone for your input.
 
I would think the fuel pumps would act up all the time not just when it's hot. They are controlled by vacuum off of the carb and can be easily checked with a hand Vacuum pump. How are the vacuum lines? Could they be collapsing when hot? Have you sync'd the carbs?
 
All the lines look good, without the airbox on I can see slides moving up and down when throttle is applied
 
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