2006 Apex Coolant Leak

[karlburns]

I installed muffin works tunnel stiffeners the day I picked up the sled from the first weld job. Lasted another two years/1800 miles before I had it welded the second time. After that I yanked the monoskid suspension out, made my own brackets, and installed an M10 suspension. Put another 1500 miles on the seld and then sold it for my 2011 apex xtx. When I sold it I noticed it was just starting to leak again so even with my own drop brackets I created it still didn't solve the problem. Keep in mind that is the only issues (other then suspension arms breaking) I had with the sled, bought it new and sold it at 8500 miles.

 

[TBay Sledhead]

See the brace in the center of the photo, I put that on 4 or 5 years ago and hasn't cracked since. cracked twice on this side and once on the other. I know it's not the prettiest thing but it works.

 

[karlburns]

When I built my brackets I did the exact same thing and it didn't stop the crack. I will admit though that I beat down the trail standing on my boards at 80 MPH.

 

[gitrdun]

Did you put running board stiffners on? Wondering if a fabricator could make a bracket our plate to stiffen it up more...?

Like steiner said, it all depends how you ride whether you need the tunnel supports or not after you get this repaired. The last owner could have simply rode that sled hard, or if he was 280 and stood up on every bump, somethings got to give. Here is a tunnel support from Yamaha made to fit, with rivets, if I remember right, about 140. $. Just leave a couple rivets out where the heat exchanger is(don't drill through it), or move that rivet install over a little. Sorry, the decals are extra.

 

[DJ Hennessy]

View attachment 116115
See the brace in the center of the photo, I put that on 4 or 5 years ago and hasn't cracked since. cracked twice on this side and once on the other. I know it's not the prettiest thing but it works.

What did you make that out of? Looks simple, but strong, maybe that in combination with the tunnel stiffners the guys mention above should solve it for a good while?? Just got to taking everything apart and its the throttle side with a single hairline crack... Weld time I guess!

 

[TBay Sledhead]

Just cut them from some sheet stainless approx 1/16 thick and put a 90 deg bend along the length. they are about 5/8" on one side 3/8" on the other.

 

[steiner]

The reason I replaced my exchangers was that you can make a weaker point on the aluminum when welding the crack closed. Welding the crack makes that area stronger but can add more stress to the areas beside that weld. These exchangers need to flex as the rider puts weight on them. A good weld job could very well solve the issue for a long time especially if you are a sit down rider. If you tend to stand you will flex and load the exchangers. This is where the tunnel stiffeners come in. They distribute the weight over a greater area reducing the stress and flex on the area where this leak happens.
If gitrdun is correct on that price the Muffin Works stiffeners are half the price and with the choice of lettering and color it was an easy choice for me.
I added the blue in behind them.

 

[apex55]

My guess it's leaking where my 2006 did (no rear heat exchanger):

There is a cross over metal pipe in the back of the sled. On each side, the pipe connects to the running board exchangers via rubber hoses. Yamaha used rivets to hold that metal pipe in place. In time the rivets get loose and break and then the pipe will bounce up and down where it goes through the "framework" and cut a hole in the pipe.

I got a used pipe from BOP and when I put it in I wrapped the ends of the pipe in rubber where it goes through the frame. No movement at all after that. Kind of a pain time-consuming fix with the rear of the sled lifted way up and tied to the rafters in the garage.

For anyone that has an 06 or so Apex or Attak, look under the back at that pipe and make sure it does not move when you push on it. If it's loose (or even if it isn't loose yet) wedge some rubber material between the pipe and the frame and save yourself from having to replace it in the future.

Yep this same thing happens to me. The rivets broke and the tube rode up and down in the holes of the frame and almost wore all the way they. It's a good idea to check as many rivets and replace the loose my bed on these older sleds. Mine is an 06 ER with 12000 miles.

 

[MacAttak]

mine had a leak right where you bolt the skid in. tried welding it. Had to end up buying new heat exchanger because weld didn't hold

 

[Bluebullet]

I am having the same issue with the running board heat ex changers. small drip appears on the track mid way through a day of riding. had to add coolant last ride after 700 miles so far this year. I stand a lot during riding. I have looked at all my hose connections and coolers and can't find the issue. Hair line crack and drips when warm! sucks. I plan on just making through the rest of the season and carrying a quart or so of coolant with me. Last ride temp light came on in powder riding causing me to add around a quart of coolant. This summer I will put new ones on, hope to make it the rest of the year! Any one try a stop leak product? I may carry some in sled in case it gets worse for emergency.

 

[steiner]

I would refrain from using a stop leak product. These products and gum up areas in the system that you may not wanted gummed up and reduce the cooling of the system.

 

[maim]

you could always add dye to the system and then use a black light to locate the crack that is leaking.

 

[Bluebullet]

So, I melted all the ice and snow this week from suspension. refilled the coolant bottles and loaded the sled in truck for my ride today, left it running for a while and low and behold she is leaking from the area under the suspension mounting bracket as most of you say. just a small dribble. I have 2 qts of antifreeze with me so we will see on today's ride how far I can go until my light comes on. Tough time of year to find this issue! Wish me luck!

 

[steiner]

In a pinch you can turn the coolant tank cap one notch off. The cap will stay on but not will allow the system to build up pressure.