2006 Yamaha Nytro 1000

[ramrod11]

I was riding my sled one day and I shut it off and it was dead. I charged it and it fired right up then the light was getting weak as I was riding. I shut it off and it was dead again. I heard that's either the regulator or the stator. Then I noticed the spedometer wasn't working and so I took that apart and the driveshaft needed a baring and the speed sensor. So I fixed that and rode it ten minutes and I let it idle and it died. I went to put the charger on it and it started cranking over with the key and everything off. I bought a new starter relay and it's still starting by itself. Does anyone know what it could be


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[SXRider7Hundo]

First off, welcome. Nice to know I'm not the only one on an RS Nytro anymore these days. Before jumping on the wagon that it's your stator- let's check a few things first.

1. Your battery- is it junk? Use a float charger overnight and make sure that it maintains a voltage the next day. Check it a couple times through the day to be certain it doesn't drop.
2. V/R (voltage regulator)- Open your hood and it is sitting dead front and center by the bumper. You can remove the front lower nose to gain an extra tiny bit of access if need be. These regulators are the MOSFET design, which are usually stable and reliable. What can be of trouble, like mine was- is the connections themselves to the regulator. Remove the connectors and carefully inspect them. You may need to replace the connectors and terminals. These can be purchased at either www.easternbeaver.com or I have seen them on ebay for reasonable prices. Port Yamaha can hook you up with OEM also if you would like that route. If you see any scoring or corrosion/black pitting they most likely are not making a proper connection. Personally I would investigate this first. I also highly recommend a good quality dielectric grease on your connections for reliability and longevity.
3. Stator- I recommend using the search function as there have been a few different methods to test. For me I would consult the service manual (which is available here on the site with a VIP membership. ) and check for the specification of the resistance and check with a multimeter.

 

[ramrod11]

First off, welcome. Nice to know I'm not the only one on an RS Nytro anymore these days. Before jumping on the wagon that it's your stator- let's check a few things first.

1. Your battery- is it junk? Use a float charger overnight and make sure that it maintains a voltage the next day. Check it a couple times through the day to be certain it doesn't drop.
2. V/R (voltage regulator)- Open your hood and it is sitting dead front and center by the bumper. You can remove the front lower nose to gain an extra tiny bit of access if need be. These regulators are the MOSFET design, which are usually stable and reliable. What can be of trouble, like mine was- is the connections themselves to the regulator. Remove the connectors and carefully inspect them. You may need to replace the connectors and terminals. These can be purchased at either www.easternbeaver.com or I have seen them on ebay for reasonable prices. Port Yamaha can hook you up with OEM also if you would like that route. If you see any scoring or corrosion/black pitting they most likely are not making a proper connection. Personally I would investigate this first. I also highly recommend a good quality dielectric grease on your connections for reliability and longevity.
3. Stator- I recommend using the search function as there have been a few different methods to test. For me I would consult the service manual (which is available here on the site with a VIP membership. ) and check for the specification of the resistance and check with a multimeter.

I can check the charging issue once I start it. I need to figure out why it's starting on its own when I plug the relay in. Thanks for the reply


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[ramrod11]

I can check the charging issue once I start it. I need to figure out why it's starting on its own when I plug the relay in. Thanks for the reply


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My battery is bran new


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[SXRider7Hundo]

If it is starting by itself check to see if something is touching the terminals and completing the circuit. FYI- you can still check your rectifier without the machine running. I am guessing that the starter motor is continuing to crank after it is running and causing a heavy drain on the system.

 

[ramrod11]

If it is starting by itself check to see if something is touching the terminals and completing the circuit. FYI- you can still check your rectifier without the machine running. I am guessing that the starter motor is continuing to crank after it is running and causing a heavy drain on the system.

We tried everything messed with a wire and it finally stopped but then moved a different wire and it did it again then it kept going from wire to wire and we unplugged one at a time and that did nothing. It's not the ignition. We finally got it to stop and we ran it and then shut it off then a minute later it tried starting out of nowhere again it wasn't the relay


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[grizztracks]

There is only the starter relay between the battery and the starter so there's not much that can go wrong. If it wants to start cranking on it's own then the relay has to be in a closed circuits state which will only happen if either the relay is bad or the red/white wire has 12 volts power to it. The red/white wire comes directly from the key switch and if it's powered without the key in the start position it's shorted to a constant 12 volt wire. The only constant 12 volt wire near it is the red/yellow ignition feed which runs from the 15 amp fuse in the box up to the ignition. You could try pulling the fuse to see if it continues or unplugging the key switch harness to eliminate the key switch causing the issue. I've also seen corrosion in the key switch harness connector and the relay control connector so check them both. You may need to trace the red/wh wire from the starter relay back to the key switch to find where it's shorted. Do you have a mouse problem?

Pull the battery and put it on the charger so it's fully charged then take it to autozone or a part store that will load test it for free. If the battery is good you'll need to check the stator either by measuring it's resistance or with the engine running measuring the battery voltage to see if it's 13 to 14.5 volts. Inspect the wires coming up out of the stator cover to the regulator and battery to make sure they haven't been damaged.

 

[ramrod11]

My battery is bran new, I do not have a mouse problem. It is just weird cause it didn't do it once and we hit a button and it started cranking then we got it to where it won't again and then moved a set of wires and it did it again. Then we got it and could start it and shut it off then we shut it off and two mins later it started cranking over again


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[grizztracks]

The problem is between the starter relay and the key switch. When the key is turned to the "on" position it provides 12 volts through the red/white wire to the starter relay coil and when in the "start" position the switch provides ground through the black wire to close the contact in the starter relay. There is nothing else wired in the start circuit that energizes the starter motor. If the starter relay is good then there is either damage to the wire harness to the key switch or the key switch is shorting internally. Because the key switch provides the 12 volts and the ground to the relay and both of those have to be present for the relay to energize the starter I'd say you have a bad switch.

 

[steiner]

Couple of things to take a look at.
The starter relay block as Grizztracks mentioned. Is there corrosion on the contacts or in the white connector that plugs into it? Common problem on these 4s as this connection is set up in such a way to collect moisture and the connection is not protected from the elements.
The connection from the ign switch to the harness. Have run into a couple of sleds with weak terminals in these connectors. Not enough pressure on the female side to deliver power thru. This causes corrosion and arcing. A tell tale sign is a brownish/yellow tint on the white plastic on the connector.

 

[ramrod11]

There is no corrosion at all


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[steiner]

There is no corrosion at all.

Well if everything is good then as grizztracks mentioned , you may have a bad ign switch

 

[ramrod11]

Does anyone know how to pull a the stator off a 2006 Yamaha nytro 1000? My stator is bad


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[Elton Buss]

There is a thread in the Apex FAQ section on removing the stator. Pretty much the same. Error code 12 stator replacement.

 

[ramrod11]

I can't find anything online about it. Is there a way to do it without removing the motor? We have it loose the cover is getting caught on the frame


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