zr8000
Extreme
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2005
- Messages
- 62
- Reaction score
- 4
- Points
- 688
Just purchased a real nice black 2007 Attak GT with about 3400 miles.
Not entirely new to Yamaha...I've had Nytro before and thought about another one but was nervous about subframe issues so I chose Attak.
Can anyone on this forum tell me if the weld on the rails where the shock mounts is 'factory'? Both sides look the same (sorry, picture is rotated on side). The guy I bought it from has had it for the last 2000 miles and he stated he has not touched it. Looks like it was beefed up but would like to see if anyone can confirm if what the pictures show is stock or something that was welded by one of the previous owners.
Not entirely new to Yamaha...I've had Nytro before and thought about another one but was nervous about subframe issues so I chose Attak.
Can anyone on this forum tell me if the weld on the rails where the shock mounts is 'factory'? Both sides look the same (sorry, picture is rotated on side). The guy I bought it from has had it for the last 2000 miles and he stated he has not touched it. Looks like it was beefed up but would like to see if anyone can confirm if what the pictures show is stock or something that was welded by one of the previous owners.
Attachments
Stubbs
TY 4 Stroke Master
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2006
- Messages
- 1,163
- Reaction score
- 677
- Points
- 1,378
- Location
- Uxbridge, On, Can.
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- ‘16 Apex XTX with 137” Mono II
+ other gooodies
- LOCATION
- Uxbridge ON
That's not factory. It likely developed hairline cracks in the rails and was repaired/made stronger.
Ding
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2004
- Messages
- 547
- Reaction score
- 71
- Points
- 988
- Location
- Howell, MI
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- Black & Blue
Yes, that appears to be a fix. Although I am no metallurgist, what I have learned about aluminum heat treating makes me wary of field welded repairs. I suggest watching that spot closely as it likely weakened the surrounding area. I understand that skilled welders can limit this to a point by carefully controlling heat, but you have no way of knowing how it was welded of course.
On the cracking topic, I have been convinced that the cracks occur more from flexing the rails side to side or even harmonic vibration than the primary stress of loading and unloading the rails (up and down). Thus cross shafts can really help limit this cracking.
On the cracking topic, I have been convinced that the cracks occur more from flexing the rails side to side or even harmonic vibration than the primary stress of loading and unloading the rails (up and down). Thus cross shafts can really help limit this cracking.
Winderallday!
VIP Member
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2007
- Messages
- 588
- Reaction score
- 167
- Points
- 1,058
- Location
- SW, Ontario
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2018 Sidewinder DX
I have seen it where these suspension cross shaft bolt holes have worn/elongated badly if the bolts have backed out or weren't tightened back up properly
Seems like the weld repair is pretty beefy for just damaged holes, but possible rails were cracked as well. Maybe could tell the extent of the damage from inside the rail if it wasn't welded inside.
Most rail cracks I've seen are adjacent to the single bolt wheel mounts that can flex (torque) the rail, this repair is between wheels it seems.
I find it pays to double check your suspension mounting bolts for proper torque for peace of mind, if they back out completely it can make a mess. Avoid use of impact wrenches on bolts that go into aluminum, very easy to strip the threads in aluminum. FWIW.
Seems like the weld repair is pretty beefy for just damaged holes, but possible rails were cracked as well. Maybe could tell the extent of the damage from inside the rail if it wasn't welded inside.
Most rail cracks I've seen are adjacent to the single bolt wheel mounts that can flex (torque) the rail, this repair is between wheels it seems.
I find it pays to double check your suspension mounting bolts for proper torque for peace of mind, if they back out completely it can make a mess. Avoid use of impact wrenches on bolts that go into aluminum, very easy to strip the threads in aluminum. FWIW.
