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2007 Attak problems?

Hammertime

Newbie
Joined
Nov 20, 2005
Messages
17
Location
Croswell ,Mi
I currently have a 05 rx-1 but am looking at a 07 AttakGT. It has about 2600 miles on it. Is there anything I should look out for? Thanks for any help. Todd
 

Great sled! Donuts... then any cracks anywhere front end & rear suspension. Just the usual used sled sight check. Make sure the ohlin meters up & down on the pod means all is working there. Unless you weight 230lbs+ standard rear spring should be ok. Black was really good looking but red nice too. Put on Bergstrom skegs & hang on. How much? Any YES. If you have YES no worries at all.
 
You can put rags over the tail pipes to check the donuts. Maybe he has extended warraranty which would cover the replacement gaskets.
 
if the bearings behind the secondary clutch and speedo pick up havent ever been greased they could be in need of replacement. also check the wieght transfer rod for cracking where it mounts.
 
Hammertime said:
He wants 5300.00 for it , but said he would "work" with me because it is a 10 hour drive for me. Is that a fair price?

Yep that is a good price & low miles too. I would stud it for traction hookup.
 
snappy said:
no need to stud .pull out the transfer rod.

Don't do that you won't gave any front end control for trail riding. Studs give you hook up & stopping traction for low end 150 grunt.
 
Thanks for all the info guys, I didn't buy the GT but I did pick up a blue ER Attak 2007 with 1583 miles came with cover, undercover, wide Yamaha skies,and spare windshield. Paid $5500.00. Now I have to sell my 05 RX1-ER.
 
Did you give up the clickers up front with ER? RA is a good set up too liked the 1 I rode but I prefer clickers up front. The EC ohlin is trick once you get it set up right just smooths those stutters out. You will be able to sell RX1. I like rider forward never go any other way for me but lots of old Polaris riders out there want a Yammy 4s with sit in saddle. Try to get an old poo rider interested.
 
whitedust1 said:
snappy said:
no need to stud .pull out the transfer rod.

Don't do that you won't gave any front end control for trail riding. Studs give you hook up & stopping traction for low end 150 grunt.

studs work best on ice or super hard pack. i run an ice ripper for braking and did over a thousand trail miles last year with no transfer rod. i wont put it back in. it hooks up unreal and is a blast to ride.
 
snappy said:
whitedust1 said:
snappy said:
no need to stud .pull out the transfer rod.

Don't do that you won't gave any front end control for trail riding. Studs give you hook up & stopping traction for low end 150 grunt.

studs work best on ice or super hard pack. i run an ice ripper for braking and did over a thousand trail miles last year with no transfer rod. i wont put it back in. it hooks up unreal and is a blast to ride.

So you liked the ice ripper over studs? Good to know...... I was thinking ice ripper would be what I would replace my track & studs with but still looking good after 6,000 miles. I really don't like studs but have to have for 150 4s or any sled I'm too use to having stud control & would kill myself without them.
 


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