2009 nytro fx xtx

[jimbur]

If chaincase oil looks good chances are that side is all ok. On clutch side of the sled I would do drive shaft and jackshaft just For peace of mind. Then go over the skid and make sure those bearings are smooth and tight. Not sure your situation, but I only get to Ride 3 trips 3 weeks a year and I can't afford to have problems on the trail. I do my own work too so couple of bucks and an evening on the sled should fix you up if you're able.

 

[Mark1894]

If chaincase oil looks good chances are that side is all ok. On clutch side of the sled I would do drive shaft and jackshaft just For peace of mind. Then go over the skid and make sure those bearings are smooth and tight. Not sure your situation, but I only get to Ride 3 trips 3 weeks a year and I can't afford to have problems on the trail. I do my own work too so couple of bucks and an evening on the sled should fix you up if you're able.

Jimbur
Yeah same with me don’t ride a bunch think my last sled I put 550 miles in 2 years! No trips at this point just normally do 1 weekend trip a year but not a lot of miles put on then! Are all the drive and jack shaft bearings pretty easy to get to? Also something bout trackshaft bearings?? And would you buy Yamaha bearing?

 

[Hooray!]

As Jimbur said, the two on the right are lubricated with chain case oil. If you don't see any oil leaking on the inside of the tunnel at these two points, likely they are ok. The clutch side bearings likely need to be repacked at least, there are several threads about it, or if stock replaced which means pulling the entire skid, shafts on both sides in which case do all four. It is pretty easy to pull the skid, see my rebuild thread: https://ty4stroke.com/threads/2009-nytro-front-end-rebuild.149099/; I started a slow methodical tear down last year around this time and except for the four main bearings which were replaced by the prior owner, replaced all front end wear items, new skis/skegs and every wear bushing, rubber component possible on front end and skid. Mine had the Hy-gear suspension upgrade and a new Camoplast 1.6" track. With 12,000 miles on it, you will be amazed how many skid bushings are shot. They are simple to replace and if you don't catch them, you start to wear metal at which point things get expensive to rebuild. I went with some Schmidt Brothers upgrades which dramatically tightened up the front end and rear end. I noticed my limiter straps were quite worn and after 1200 miles this year, I can already see wear on the new set I installed. I would check these and I assume you re-grease your skid after every few rides (a must) as water gets in every ride / use. I would change the chain case oil and engine oil (assume you do this annually) as well. Bottom line, changing oils and greasing and you might be fine but have a person hold your bars stationary and then move your skis left and right and see how much play you have in the front end. After all new front end parts and the SB pins and shims, my bars don't move independent of the skis, zero play. Good luck, you have all summer to play, again, my rebuild thread is step by step with pics which may be helpful, it shows all the items you should consider. Cheers!

 

[4strokes]

dont forget about the driveshaft lower sprocket bolt breaking off and coming through cover. needs a spacer

 

[porkchop]

OFT steering relocate kit + WRP seat, my best 2 mods.
Stock seat is like sitting down on an old shitty broken couch....

 

[4strokes]

OFT steering relocate kit + WRP seat, my best 2 mods.
Stock seat is like sitting down on an old shitty broken couch....

x2 and after that, star kit in back and triple rates up front. after that, skis, after that, larger primary rollers, after that, a spacer on sprocket bolt, after that, copper donuts, after that, sidewinder

 

[Hooray!]

OFT steering relocate kit + WRP seat, my best 2 mods.
Stock seat is like sitting down on an old shitty broken couch....

Lol! True dat!

 

[Hooray!]

x2 and after that, star kit in back and triple rates up front. after that, skis, after that, larger primary rollers, after that, a spacer on sprocket bolt, after that, copper donuts, after that, sidewinder

Along the same lines, HyGear full suspension, triple springs, valving, hi flow hose, for me tuners w full Bergstrom kit, ironic SB smaller primary rollers & spring for 2800 rpm engagement, Oilite bushings a-arms/skis, SB airbox, SB tunnel block, SB steering shims / pins, Rocz HIDs / Yamaheaters, copper donuts, 1.6" Camoplast... And so on and so on!