2010 Ltx - what to look for when buying

[ontarioyamaha]

Going to London to Look at an LTX. It's a long drive and he tells me it is in good shape. I know the Revs and the Vmax well and I know what to look for.
Besides obvious damage and wear are there any specific things to look for? With all the plastic that is not easily removable I guess a compression test is out of the question. I know the rails tend to crack.

Really appreciate any input


Cheers

 

[theCATman]

Lift/jack up the front, check for excessive play in the front arm bushings. They are greasable, but if neglected or the sled was beaten, there will be slop.

Check for excessive play in the steering/bars, another indication of abuse.

Check to see that the remote dial adjust the shock from hard to soft & vice versa. If not, either the cable is broke, which is common, or the shock is blown.

Running at idle, with gloves on, plug the tailpipes tight with the heels of your hand. If the engine quickly (3-4 seconds) begins to die, or does die, the exhaust "donuts" between the headers & Y-pipes are good. If it continues to run, they are shot. Which if left go long enough will break the pipes ( costly repair)

Look at the track & see if any clips are missing. Good indicator of what conditions it was ran in. If alot are missing, it's been abused & the track has been overheated.

If it's been trailered open, it's been exposed to road salt & grime. The fuel pump and starter relays will have corrosion ( located left side behind clutch) Also, all the aluminum & magnesium parts will have scaly corrosion (bulkhead, valve cover, brake caliper, etc.)

Otherwise, the sled itself is a great machine. Engines are bulletproof. So, it's all about how it's been treated & maintained.

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[ontarioyamaha]

Lift/jack up the front, check for excessive play in the front arm bushings. They are greasable, but if neglected or the sled was beaten, there will be slop.

Check for excessive play in the steering/bars, another indication of abuse.

Check to see that the remote dial adjust the shock from hard to soft & vice versa. If not, either the cable is broke, which is common, or the shock is blown.

Running at idle, with gloves on, plug the tailpipes tight with the heels of your hand. If the engine quickly (3-4 seconds) begins to die, or does die, the exhaust "donuts" between the headers & Y-pipes are good. If it continues to run, they are shot. Which if left go long enough will break the pipes ( costly repair)

Look at the track & see if any clips are missing. Good indicator of what conditions it was ran in. If alot are missing, it's been abused & the track has been overheated.

If it's been trailered open, it's been exposed to road salt & grime. The fuel pump and starter relays will have corrosion ( located left side behind clutch) Also, all the aluminum & magnesium parts will have scaly corrosion (bulkhead, valve cover, brake caliper, etc.)

Otherwise, the sled itself is a great machine. Engines are bulletproof. So, it's all about how it's been treated & maintained.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

 

[ontarioyamaha]

Very good thanks, Hopefully all will be well. I plan on pulling skid and a arms right away as that is something I always do. They tell me they haul in a big enclosed trailer and the donuts were done. So if everything should be top shelf.

Cheers

 

[ontarioyamaha]

Very good thanks, Hopefully all will be well. I plan on pulling skid and a arms right away as that is something I always do. They tell me they haul in a big enclosed trailer and the donuts were done. So if everything should be top shelf.

Cheers

 

[ontarioyamaha]

Its a 2010, I know they were first year EFI, can you tell if it is without pulling off panels?

 

[theCATman]

Its a 2010, I know they were first year EFI, can you tell if it is without pulling off panels?

If EFI or year?

EFI... yeah, turn the key to run, but don't start it. You'll hear the fuel pump prime & the gauges will light up.

The year is tagged on the right, lower rear outside of the tunnel. A '10 model will be dated sometime May-September /'09.... example, 8/'09 will be stamped on the tag.

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[ontarioyamaha]

Perfect thank you, It's one of those "too good to be true" scenario's so I am a bit leery. Price/Km seems to be skewed. I am thinking something is hidden. Is it possible that the low km's are incorrect. Can you tell if the Gauge has been changed? Years ago a Blew the dash out of my car and when the replaced it there was an mark next to the distance that indicated the dash had been changed. There seems to be lots of wear in the suspension based on the pictures; rust and paint chips. My other sleds have 10,000k and there is not a mark on the suspension.

Anyway, thanks for helping to put me at ease, buyer beware has me worried

Cheers

 

[theCATman]

What are the miles or Km and asking price?

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[ontarioyamaha]

It has 4800k and they wanted 4500 Cdn. Most of them up here are 5500 - 6000 with 15,000 plus km. This one is not really clean. It appears that they ride and put them away. I am very fussy, I ended up buying it but It does need cosmetic work. It runs great and handles nice. The suspension is very rusty. I normally rinse the sleds off after a run and I always leave my enclosed trailer open to dry. I figure over the summer I can take it all apart , install bushings and paint it all up nice. I initially had a bit of buyers remorse but I started cleaning it yesterday and it is starting to look nice.

 

[theCATman]

Nice score. Roughly $3400 USD for a 3,000 mile sled.

That's a good buy here in the United States too. 2010 Vectors around my neck of the woods are $5000+

A little time & elbow grease, you should have a great sled that'll last a really long time.

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[AndyApexLTX]

I have a 2013 Vector with 9000km , look after it very well. But, the condition of the skid paint is a factor of how much ice builds up in the tunnel, then spits out, or logging roads you get stuck on (without snow). I've opted to get the front swing arm commercially powder coated, and I painted the rear arm with Tremclad. Here is before and after pics. . At the ends of next winter, I'll see how the powder coat held up.
Having just pulled much of the suspension apart, cleaned and re-greased many of the steel bushings, what Catman said is 100% spot on. I also just had all three shocks re-valved, serviced by SHOCK TEC, for my weight and riding style. I also just did the speedo bearing for the first time, likely could have gone another year, but going forward I'll change it every 6000KM or about 3 years. Solid State fuel solenoid (red) is recommended for sledding north of North Bay - no more hair dryer mornings getting the sleds started.

 

[ontarioyamaha]

This far I have, replaced the starter solenoid, powder coated front, redid shocks, pulled chain case apart cleaned and reassembled, installed iridium plugs, changed oil, installed oil light bushings, pulled every connection and used dialectic grease, verified that the updated relay is in place, replaced two control arms, machined a gps mount, replaced jack shaft bearing..... Still need to reassemble front, align skiis, then I plan to attack the skid.

 

[ontarioyamaha]

Love the gold! looks great

 

[AndyApexLTX]

Love the gold! looks great

thanks. exact match to the gold pin stripe on the hood of my blue 2013.