2010 Ve6ctor LTX steers aweful..Why?????

CaptCaper

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2016 RS Vector XTX 1.25 Lug wifes..2013 RS Vector LTX.. 2003 600 VMax Past Machines 3-2007 Attaks 1-2010 Vector LTX.. sorry no Stinkdoos or poo's cats.
I switched sleds with my wife yesterday and was shocked how bad her sled was steering on groomed trails ( open graded road types) with lot's of powder,etc. compared to my Attak GT Totally OEM with only Woody's duallies. I had a lot of ski lifting too as the ski's caught it seems. Is it because of the Dualies that mine steered so much better ?
I have a pair of 5.7 Pilot's I got from Pioneer I took off my old Attak I'm going to put on hers for now. Has to be better with the Pilot's..
I feel so bad I didn't trade with her to see how it rode back when she got it new in 2011.. No wonder she say's her arms are sore. She's a trooper.
 
Definitely swap out those skis for the Pilots, should make a huge difference.

Also, look into doing some suspension adjustments. Pull out your owner's manual and read up on what each adjustment can accomplish, shocks, springs, weight transfer rod, etc.

Unhappy wife, unhappy life.
 
I would go right to the front shocks and stiffen them up a turn at a time to shift some of the front weight to the rear. I have Woodys Dooly's and my adjustment on the front shocks are like power steering.
 
Duallies have an awful "push" in the corners on the trails . Thats why you won't get ski lift with them.
As mentioned above setup the suspension for for her weight.
Snowtrackers will make the steering very positive and light, similar to power steering. No more sore shoulders and tired arms.
 
You have been on here long enough to know that you do not want to tighten the front shocks, the springs should be loose when the front of the sled is off the floor. The a-arms should be level.

Have you shimmed the ski's? If not, there is most of your problem. Lift up ski and see where your wearbar is worn the most, usually the front edge. If so, then you will need to shim the skis.


If the front end pushes, then you add transfer to the rear skid, not adjust the front shocks.

YOU SHOULD, check these items before spending lots of cash.
 
Indy said:
You have been on here long enough to know that you do not want to tighten the front shocks, the springs should be loose when the front of the sled is off the floor. The a-arms should be level.

Have you shimmed the ski's? If not, there is most of your problem. Lift up ski and see where your wearbar is worn the most, usually the front edge. If so, then you will need to shim the skis.


If the front end pushes, then you add transfer to the rear skid, not adjust the front shocks.

YOU SHOULD, check these items before spending lots of cash.


X2, Shim, Suck limiter strap up one hole, 1/4" toe out, set transfer rod to min transfer, springs all the way loose til you can move it by hand then one turn tight on adjuster nuts on threaded part of shock.
 
DGZRT said:
Indy said:
You have been on here long enough to know that you do not want to tighten the front shocks, the springs should be loose when the front of the sled is off the floor. The a-arms should be level.

Have you shimmed the ski's? If not, there is most of your problem. Lift up ski and see where your wearbar is worn the most, usually the front edge. If so, then you will need to shim the skis.


If the front end pushes, then you add transfer to the rear skid, not adjust the front shocks.

YOU SHOULD, check these items before spending lots of cash.


X2, Shim, Suck limiter strap up one hole, 1/4" toe out, set transfer rod to min transfer, springs all the way loose til you can move it by hand then one turn tight on adjuster nuts on threaded part of shock.

Something isn't adding up here.

Indy said "....If the front end pushes, then you add transfer to the rear skid, not adjust the front shocks. ..."
and DGZRT is saying "...set transfer rod to min transfer.....".

DGZRT - why are you "X2" when you're not saying the same thing?

Who is correct here?
 
Just set the Mother F-er up like this & thank me later....

This is for LTX or 121" also. This is the same setup I use on my '06 Apex GT (121") save for the ability to adjust the shock electrically vs manually.

Depending on everyone's given weight & trail conditions more compression may be needed on the remote dial on the tunnel. PLEASE realize this.

1. Front shocks-- pre-load measurement of 1 7/8" collar to collar

2. Front shocks-- compression. clicker dial is 3 clicks in from full soft. In other words, turn it in counterclockwise 'till it stops, & then in 3 clicks

3. Front shocks-- rebound. clicker dial is 3 clicks in from full fast rebound. In other words, turn it counterclockwise 'til it stops, & then 3 clicks in.

4. Rear Mono-Shock pre-load-- Leave it in the stock cam notch. This should be the middle notch.

5. Rear transfer rod-- Turn the transfer rod IN to a measurement of 1 1/8"

6. Rear Mono-Shock rebound-- 3 clicks from full soft, according to the dial on the tunnel. In other words, turn it all the way to full soft & then 3 clicks toward hard. NOTE: the compression feel will also change as the rebound is set tighter for weight & trail conditions.

7. Some people have gone 1-2 notches tighter on the limiter strap. I personally have tried it & noticed no difference from the stock location.

REMINDER!! the rear setting can & will have to change some depending on your weight & trail conditions. This also will change the feel of the compression too.

On a side note also. As we all know the stock Yamaha skis suck major balls. Dually runners in the 6-10" range are highly recommended. As are Snow-Trackers if you choose that route.


ONE EDIT TO THIS SETUP: Whenever my wife rides the sled, I put the Mono-Shock preload to full soft. She said the middle setting was a little harsh for her. She's about 125 lbs with gear. I don't think many of us guys here are only a buck-thirty geared up, but be aware that a light rider may want the Mono set on soft.

Any other questions, just ask.



_________________
 
Thanks guys..I put the 5.7 pilots on yesterday. I set the shocks,etc. like catman said today and try it out tommorrow
 
Just put SnowTracker's on and your wife will do things for you like never before. ;)!
 
kviper said:
Just put SnowTracker's on and your wife will do things for you like never before. ;)!

Will Sno Trackers go into the trailers,etc. o.k. I thought I read they hang up in trailers or while crossing rail beds. I drive in a back out of a Vnose enclosed trailer.. Also I drive them into a shop with a rug on the floor so the concrete doesn't get slashed out.
 
theCATman said:
Just set the Mother F-er up like this & thank me later....

This is for LTX or 121" also. This is the same setup I use on my '06 Apex GT (121") save for the ability to adjust the shock electrically vs manually.

Depending on everyone's given weight & trail conditions more compression may be needed on the remote dial on the tunnel. PLEASE realize this.

1. Front shocks-- pre-load measurement of 1 7/8" collar to collar

2. Front shocks-- compression. clicker dial is 3 clicks in from full soft. In other words, turn it in counterclockwise 'till it stops, & then in 3 clicks

3. Front shocks-- rebound. clicker dial is 3 clicks in from full fast rebound. In other words, turn it counterclockwise 'til it stops, & then 3 clicks in.

4. Rear Mono-Shock pre-load-- Leave it in the stock cam notch. This should be the middle notch.

5. Rear transfer rod-- Turn the transfer rod IN to a measurement of 1 1/8"

6. Rear Mono-Shock rebound-- 3 clicks from full soft, according to the dial on the tunnel. In other words, turn it all the way to full soft & then 3 clicks toward hard. NOTE: the compression feel will also change as the rebound is set tighter for weight & trail conditions.

7. Some people have gone 1-2 notches tighter on the limiter strap. I personally have tried it & noticed no difference from the stock location.

REMINDER!! the rear setting can & will have to change some depending on your weight & trail conditions. This also will change the feel of the compression too.

On a side note also. As we all know the stock Yamaha skis suck major balls. Dually runners in the 6-10" range are highly recommended. As are Snow-Trackers if you choose that route.


ONE EDIT TO THIS SETUP: Whenever my wife rides the sled, I put the Mono-Shock preload to full soft. She said the middle setting was a little harsh for her. She's about 125 lbs with gear. I don't think many of us guys here are only a buck-thirty geared up, but be aware that a light rider may want the Mono set on soft.

Any other questions, just ask.



_________________

Cat Man, going by this vid, (second vid below beginning at 1:40) I would assume the 3 clicks in would actually put them on the number 2 setting then?


Also, just curious, but how often do you or others rebuild/freshen your front shocks?
I have almost 6500k on mine now and I don't believe they have ever been done so I am thinking I am probably due and in all likelyhood, I am probably overdue?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPKrqxQTWlU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0dZk17QcP9U
 
I might add a litle extra to this:

Vector is lighter, every sled is different, every shock & spring is different.

So instead I would still raise the front end of the sled and loosen both top nuts on the shock spring. Loosen until the springs turns freely in your hand, but has just a little contact with the bottom spring nut, tighter the top nut down to the bottom nut. Count threads showing and try to match the other side, you can add or loosen to make them match (they do not need to be perfect). Put it down on the floor, hop on it and bounce a couple of times, thus giving it the lowest stance possible w/o changing to shorter shocks.
 
Doo 5.7's should improve the steering right away on LTX. After 2 years of fighting, I went with Tuner skis ( 4 in inside 2 in carbide outside) Sled handled great, no darting, no push in corners felt like I was stuck to the trails. I will say again this is the best update to make my sled handle...... finally. Here is my best set up today:
-Transfer rod set to min
-front end springs backed as far off as possible
-rebound clicker set to 6 and damping set to 10.
-Limiter strap shows 2 and 1/2 holes( factory set point).
-Mono shock at 20 clicks, sag set,
-also found that running with Max set on electronic ohlins shock seems to work best.
I am running around 180 pics on my Apex LTX GT.
Your wife's vector LTX should be similar but all are a little different. Pretty much the same recommendations as others.
Good luck and I hope this helps ;)!
 


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