jdp1under
Expert
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2009
- Messages
- 362
- Location
- CT, NO SNOWVILLE
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2010 RS VECTOR GT LTX STOCK FOR NOW!
Hello guys moved over from the rx froum I just sold the 03 rx1 and bought a 2010 vector gt ltx
I am 225 I love to ride hard and fast on the groomed trials mostly. I have already but Yamaha tunner skis and a pioneer 13mm sway bar. With that said I have searched and read a ton of suspension post and tried to read thru the service manual 3 times and now im lost. Just looking for a good base line to start before I bring the sled north! thanks jdp
I am 225 I love to ride hard and fast on the groomed trials mostly. I have already but Yamaha tunner skis and a pioneer 13mm sway bar. With that said I have searched and read a ton of suspension post and tried to read thru the service manual 3 times and now im lost. Just looking for a good base line to start before I bring the sled north! thanks jdp
theCATman
TY 4 Stroke Master
Here is your meal ticket. My (theCATman) setup for Apex & Vector. Many satisfied TY customers over the years.
This is for LTX or 121" also. This is the same setup I use on my '06 Apex GT (121") save for the ability to adjust the shock electrically vs manually.
Depending on everyone's given weight & trail conditions more compression may be needed on the remote dial on the tunnel. PLEASE realize this.
1. Front shocks-- pre-load measurement of 1 7/8" collar to collar
2. Front shocks-- compression. clicker dial is 3 clicks in from full soft. In other words, turn it in counterclockwise 'till it stops, & then in 3 clicks
3. Front shocks-- rebound. clicker dial is 3 clicks in from full fast rebound. In other words, turn it counterclockwise 'til it stops, & then 3 clicks in.
4. Rear Mono-Shock pre-load-- Leave it in the stock cam notch. This should be the middle notch.
5. Rear transfer rod-- Turn the transfer rod IN to a measurement of 1 1/8"
6. Rear Mono-Shock rebound-- 3 clicks from full soft, according to the dial on the tunnel. In other words, turn it all the way to full soft & then 3 clicks toward hard. NOTE: the compression feel will also change as the rebound is set tighter for weight & trail conditions.
7. Some people have gone 1-2 notches tighter on the limiter strap. I personally have tried it & noticed no difference from the stock location.
REMINDER!! the rear setting can & will have to change some depending on your weight & trail conditions. This also will change the feel of the compression too.
On a side note also. As we all know the stock Yamaha skis suck major balls. Dually runners in the 6-10" range are highly recommended. As are Snow-Trackers if you choose that route.
ONE EDIT TO THIS SETUP: Whenever my wife rides the sled, I put the Mono-Shock preload to full soft. She said the middle setting was a little harsh for her. She's about 125 lbs with gear. I don't think many of us guys here are only a buck-thirty geared up, but be aware that a light rider may want the Mono set on soft.
Any other questions, just ask.
This is for LTX or 121" also. This is the same setup I use on my '06 Apex GT (121") save for the ability to adjust the shock electrically vs manually.
Depending on everyone's given weight & trail conditions more compression may be needed on the remote dial on the tunnel. PLEASE realize this.
1. Front shocks-- pre-load measurement of 1 7/8" collar to collar
2. Front shocks-- compression. clicker dial is 3 clicks in from full soft. In other words, turn it in counterclockwise 'till it stops, & then in 3 clicks
3. Front shocks-- rebound. clicker dial is 3 clicks in from full fast rebound. In other words, turn it counterclockwise 'til it stops, & then 3 clicks in.
4. Rear Mono-Shock pre-load-- Leave it in the stock cam notch. This should be the middle notch.
5. Rear transfer rod-- Turn the transfer rod IN to a measurement of 1 1/8"
6. Rear Mono-Shock rebound-- 3 clicks from full soft, according to the dial on the tunnel. In other words, turn it all the way to full soft & then 3 clicks toward hard. NOTE: the compression feel will also change as the rebound is set tighter for weight & trail conditions.
7. Some people have gone 1-2 notches tighter on the limiter strap. I personally have tried it & noticed no difference from the stock location.
REMINDER!! the rear setting can & will have to change some depending on your weight & trail conditions. This also will change the feel of the compression too.
On a side note also. As we all know the stock Yamaha skis suck major balls. Dually runners in the 6-10" range are highly recommended. As are Snow-Trackers if you choose that route.
ONE EDIT TO THIS SETUP: Whenever my wife rides the sled, I put the Mono-Shock preload to full soft. She said the middle setting was a little harsh for her. She's about 125 lbs with gear. I don't think many of us guys here are only a buck-thirty geared up, but be aware that a light rider may want the Mono set on soft.
Any other questions, just ask.
klipper
Newbie
theCATman - your control rod measurement - where are you measuring? Does your 1 1/8" measurement correlate to anything on the spanner Yamaha provides as a gauge for the control rod?
If I remember correctly, there is a locknut against the sleeve, then the exposed threads with the adjusting nut outside of that. Just wondering where you are measuring so I can give your 1 1/8" control rod setting a try.
If I remember correctly, there is a locknut against the sleeve, then the exposed threads with the adjusting nut outside of that. Just wondering where you are measuring so I can give your 1 1/8" control rod setting a try.
theCATman
TY 4 Stroke Master
The measurement is between the two slotted jam nuts. Front & back. Loosen jam nut turn rod in till you have the measurement, tighten jam nut.
I can post a pic if like if my description is clear as mud.
I can post a pic if like if my description is clear as mud.
klipper
Newbie
I think I got it......so measured face to face of the nuts, along the threaded part of the control rod right?
That's probably close to minimum transfer on the spanner. I'll have to take a look when I get home.
That's probably close to minimum transfer on the spanner. I'll have to take a look when I get home.
theCATman
TY 4 Stroke Master
Yep threaded/fat part of rod between jam nuts.
jdp1under
Expert
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2009
- Messages
- 362
- Location
- CT, NO SNOWVILLE
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2010 RS VECTOR GT LTX STOCK FOR NOW!
And this is why I love this site THANK YOU theCATman!!!!!!! I really wanted to set the sled up close so when I finally get to ride all I have to do is dial it in to my preferences and liking!
theCATman
TY 4 Stroke Master
No problemo. Glad to help. I will say you are comparable in weight to me, so if you ride hard, set tunnel dial to 5-6 clicks from full soft & adjust from there.
Otherwise the sled will be very planted & handle very good.
Otherwise the sled will be very planted & handle very good.
klipper
Newbie
X2 on the thank you to theCATman and on how great this site is. This site and the 2-stoke side are big reasons I love working on and riding the Yammies! Great machines and good, good people that help each other out on these forums. Great support.
I looked at the scale on the Yamaha spanner compared to the 1 1/8" measurement on the control rod between the jam nuts. The 1 1/8" is a good deal below the minimum transfer, so I would imagine this is going to be REALLY planted. I can't wait to try this setup!! Thanks again!
I looked at the scale on the Yamaha spanner compared to the 1 1/8" measurement on the control rod between the jam nuts. The 1 1/8" is a good deal below the minimum transfer, so I would imagine this is going to be REALLY planted. I can't wait to try this setup!! Thanks again!
theCATman
TY 4 Stroke Master
I hope you get snow soon to try it out. You should be pleased. If yanking the skis is your thing, maybe not. Lol. It will stay stuck to the ground.
IMO, that's alot of why the Yamahas handle so poorly off the dealer floor. Too much weight transfer that unloads the skis with any amount of throttle.
IMO, that's alot of why the Yamahas handle so poorly off the dealer floor. Too much weight transfer that unloads the skis with any amount of throttle.
jdp1under
Expert
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2009
- Messages
- 362
- Location
- CT, NO SNOWVILLE
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2010 RS VECTOR GT LTX STOCK FOR NOW!
Hello had to drag this one back out! Just got out for my first ride on my new to me ltx. I really would like to thank theCATman for is starting point info. I was able to put 250 of the best miles down any Yammi I have ever owned! Only adjustment I made was one click stiffer on the tunnel and she rode great! If Yamaha dealers would take the time to set these sleds up they would have a ton of happy customers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I was wondering if theCatman would mind chiming in and now explain the minor cliker adjustments and how they will effect the sled! the reason I ask is I would love to have an understanding moving forward so I can make changes for different conditions!
Thanks again!!!!!!!!!!!! jdp
Thanks again!!!!!!!!!!!! jdp
4strokeluvr111
Please stay between the markers!
- Joined
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- 2,153
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- Snowmobile
- Bought a new 05 Vector which I still have
24K miles
The measurement is between the two slotted jam nuts. Front & back. Loosen jam nut turn rod in till you have the measurement, tighten jam nut.
I can post a pic if like if my description is clear as mud.
Could you post a picture please?...and thanks!
theCATman
TY 4 Stroke Master
I will get a picture up this eve. Stay tuned...
The clickers are compression on top, rebound on bottom. The slower (more turns in on both) the slower the shock reacts to any hits. You may try slowing the compression on really rough conditions, but personally I'd leave the rebound alone. If you slow the rebound too much, the shock will "pack up" on chatter bumps & won't be able to extend back to full travel fast enough & essentially you'll lose suspension until the bumps smooth out & the shock can settle back out.
Make sense I hope??
The clickers are compression on top, rebound on bottom. The slower (more turns in on both) the slower the shock reacts to any hits. You may try slowing the compression on really rough conditions, but personally I'd leave the rebound alone. If you slow the rebound too much, the shock will "pack up" on chatter bumps & won't be able to extend back to full travel fast enough & essentially you'll lose suspension until the bumps smooth out & the shock can settle back out.
Make sense I hope??
theCATman
TY 4 Stroke Master
Metallicat
TY 4 Stroke God
About how much below minimum transfer is your recommended setting? Any loss of ride quality with it set so tight? I have mine set 1 click above minimum but may try out your suggestion. Sounds interesting!
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