2011 high engagement

[titanrcr]

Now I'm confused with the different opinions..lol, I might try cleaning up the primary first, but I'm still surprised it would get sticky with only 2k on it...

At 2000 miles they should be cleaned. I would pull the primary off, remove the primary spring and spray it with brake clean and then blast it out with air. Belt dust tends to build up in the area where the sliding sheave contacts the plastic shoes on the spider. With the cover and spring removed the sliding sheave should move up and down freely. While it's apart you may as well try that Hauck black spring. The Pink-Blue-Pink Yamaha spring might do the trick also but I have not tried it.

 

[Millinocket Rocket]

Thanks for the help guys, I also have an overdrive sheave....think that would contribute to this harsh engagement problem? Wondering if there's too much clearance between the belt and sheaves. I'm going to tear into it in the next day or two...clean it and see if it slides freely or needs bushings, and probably try a different spring and probably a new belt.

 

[Caveman]

2011-2015 Apex - I'm tempted to dump the money for a clutch kit but before I do, this post mentions both Hauck black primary spring as a solution for abrupt engagement...which is actually a longer stiffer spring than the stock spring (blue silver blue) and also a Yamaha pink blue pink spring as a possible solution...which is a shorter softer spring than stock. It doesn't seem to make sense that both a stiffer and softer primary spring could calm down the whiplash starts. I'm used to it and have a fairly well trained flipper but would like to reduce the heavy 8dn belt dust and occasional squeel. Has anyone else tried either alternative spring mentioned and what were the results?

 

[Sasquatch]

Now I'm confused with the different opinions..lol, I might try cleaning up the primary first, but I'm still surprised it would get sticky with only 2k on it...

Every 500 miles blow em out! Makes a difference!

 

[Millinocket Rocket]

I ended up cleaning mine halfway through the season last year and it definitely helped....still hits a little hard though. It's only the initial hit. I think my Viper with Heelclickers & gray spring took off smoother. I'm going to clean it again right from the start this season and see how it goes.

 

[s fortuna]

[QUOTEi put in the ulmer kit , stock sled was boring. Now traction is the problem, with lots of studs "Caveman, post: 1187325, member: 18983"]2011-2015 Apex - I'm tempted to dump the money for a clutch kit but before I do, this post mentions both Hauck black primary spring as a solution for abrupt engagement...which is actually a longer stiffer spring than the stock spring (blue silver blue) and also a Yamaha pink blue pink spring as a possible solution...which is a shorter softer spring than stock. It doesn't seem to make sense that both a stiffer and softer primary spring could calm down the whiplash starts. I'm used to it and have a fairly well trained flipper but would like to reduce the heavy 8dn belt dust and occasional squeel. Has anyone else tried either alternative spring mentioned and what were the results?[/QUOTE]
I put I

 

[hibshman25]

We offer a spring that lowers engagement. On the 3 cylinders it engages around 2500 and works fantastic. On a 4 cylinder it is going to be a little higher due to gear reduction between crank and clutch.

 

[blevis213]

my 2014 seems to engage hard also did the hauck black fix it and is it just a simple change spring or do u have to adjust weights also? I have drag n fly on hold because I heard u loose top end with them

 

[blade072]

HI....I wonder if anyone has found a simple way to lower the engagement on the 2011 Apex. We ride northern Quebec and have a minimal amount of studs in our tracks. These newer Apex's have such a abrupt initial engagement from a standstill that it difficult to have a smooth take off. I would like to do a spring change but do not want to experiment with a bunch of springs and hope to draw on some one else experience if possible.

I have a 2011 Apex XTX with about 3000 miles on it and don't run studs. Not sure of the mileage that you have, but I never did any clutch work except cleaning until my sled got about 1500 miles on it. It takes a long time to really break in that motor.
I have read some of the following replys. I am a firm believer of cleaning the clutches at least every 600 miles. This is a complete disassembly, wash, and blow dry. It is amazing how much better the clutch engages when that is done. You must also make sure that there is no binding when you move the sheaves with the springs out.
I also like the lower engagement and I like to keep RPMs down when I am cruising the trails in Canada.
I have used clutch kits, heel clickers, etc. and really don't like any of that. It all depends upon what you want to do. Whenever you change anything, it takes a lot of testing to tune the clutch to your liking. If you are only concerned about drag racing, then that is a different story.
I basically like to cruise, but enjoy a little racing now and then. Also, don't get beat often.
I agree that you should engage at around 3000 RPM. That sled has so much torque that I want to kill some of it to get traction. Once moving, it will really pull.
I use a Blue Silver Blue primary spring, a Pink Secondary spring, and 96.3 grams of weight in the clutch weights. This may sound like a lot, but that engine has a lot of torque. Use it. I also try to load the tips more than the other holes. I am turning 10,400 RPM with this set up.
I also use a stock belt.
I have a 911 cover on the primary to make it easy to adjust the primary for belt clearance.
Primary and secondary clutch adjustments are also very important.
I machined the secondary and shimmed out the helix to eliminate spring bind. This only helps you with top end.
Hopes this helps. It works for me.
Jim

 

[Caveman]

I have a 2011 Apex XTX with about 3000 miles on it and don't run studs. Not sure of the mileage that you have, but I never did any clutch work except cleaning until my sled got about 1500 miles on it. It takes a long time to really break in that motor.
I have read some of the following replys. I am a firm believer of cleaning the clutches at least every 600 miles. This is a complete disassembly, wash, and blow dry. It is amazing how much better the clutch engages when that is done. You must also make sure that there is no binding when you move the sheaves with the springs out.
I also like the lower engagement and I like to keep RPMs down when I am cruising the trails in Canada.
I have used clutch kits, heel clickers, etc. and really don't like any of that. It all depends upon what you want to do. Whenever you change anything, it takes a lot of testing to tune the clutch to your liking. If you are only concerned about drag racing, then that is a different story.
I basically like to cruise, but enjoy a little racing now and then. Also, don't get beat often.
I agree that you should engage at around 3000 RPM. That sled has so much torque that I want to kill some of it to get traction. Once moving, it will really pull.
I use a Blue Silver Blue primary spring, a Pink Secondary spring, and 96.3 grams of weight in the clutch weights. This may sound like a lot, but that engine has a lot of torque. Use it. I also try to load the tips more than the other holes. I am turning 10,400 RPM with this set up.
I also use a stock belt.
I have a 911 cover on the primary to make it easy to adjust the primary for belt clearance.
Primary and secondary clutch adjustments are also very important.
I machined the secondary and shimmed out the helix to eliminate spring bind. This only helps you with top end.
Hopes this helps. It works for me.
Jim

 

[Caveman]

Ditto on sled, XTX '12, but conservative 114 Studs since new, 4500 miles. Basically same type rider with a little off trail. Thanks for a good reply sharing your setup. A thorough cleaning made a huge difference and now trying a new Gates carbon belt for grip and dust comparison with the stock 8dn.