2011 Vector GT - right grip heater failed, needs slides, maybe more

[troverman]

I bought my 2011 RS Vector GT "used" with 48 miles on the clock. 5 years later it has 3000 miles on it. To date, the only thing I've ever done for maintenance is change the oil and filter, and occasionally grease the fittings under the sleds.

So I went to change the oil again this past weekend, and discovered there is a hole rubbed through one of the hyfaxes near where the skid rail curves upwards at the front. I also noticed the two bogie wheels that are "inboard" seem to be turning a little rough.

Also noticed the brake rotor has about 1/8" of play on the shaft...is this normal?

Everything else seems to be in good shape. Can I do the hyfaxes with the track in place? The bogie wheels? I've heard it's hard to get to the track off.

Can you source a heavier coil spring? I'm a 6'6" 270lb rider. Even with the setting turned all the way to stiff the sled squats more than I'd like. Where would you buy such a spring?

Thanks in advance.

 

[MrSled]

Yes its normal to have play in the disc. Yes you can change the wheels and hyfax with track on. Contact Travis at Barn of Parts for heavier spring.

 

[troverman]

Thanks. Subsequent searching found Travis and I have already been in email contact. Appreciate the info on the brake disc. Going to get the parts I need and tackle this quick; riding season opens here in the 15th (although its raining right now ruining the nice 8" base we had going).

 

[Snowfreak47]

Too funny Troverman I have the same sled as you. I just bought it with 1650 miles. I just changed the slides a couple weeks ago because they were getting REAL thin exactly where you described. I left the skid/track in place and put on dupont slides. I am not sure about the stock slides but the duponts were quite a bit thicker/wider and I had to enlarge a set of track windows to put on the duponts. Couple tips is to lube the hell out of your old slides with a some lubricant, inside and outside rails. Lube the tracks windows that you want to pull the old slides out of. When installing your new ones lube them up before you begin. I found it was easier with two people removing the slides. One pulling the old slide out with a vice grip and the other tapping with a flat head screwdriver along the old slide until it could be pulled out. When you cut your new slides to length keep the extra and use it for a "punch" that way you won't damage the end of your new slides. I used my Dremel with a spiral ribbed design (metal) cutting tool and it worked perfect for trimming the track windows. I am not a spokesperson for dupont but I can tell you the rolling resistance is significantly less with them on. I feel your pain about the rain but its early yet, we will get some riding in!!

 

[Snowfreak47]

Forgot to mention if you go to youtube and type in "snowmobile slide change" there are some very informative videos on how to do it with the track on the sled. Most of the videos are other brands but the process is nearly identical to ours.

 

[theCATman]

Do yourself a favor and enlarge two of the windows for hyfax changes. I use a new blade in a box cutter and trim a good 3/16-1/4" off the inside & outside of the window. Makes the job so much easier.

And as mentioned, lube the hyfax and rails really good. I have had them try to jump off the rail if not enough it used. I use PB Blaster.

I actually just put new ones on my 10 Vector LTX today.

Also, buy Genuine Yamaha hyfax or the Dupont if you have money to spend. Aftermarket hyfax is $hit!! A: it's not cut to length specific to the model of sled, so you're measuring and cutting. And B: it's not of a hard enough compound like Yamaha and wears terribly.

My stockers on my 10 LTX lasted a bit over 3500 miles. I was in fast need of hyfax before a trip and settled for some Kimpex a couple years back. 1500 miles is all those POS lasted. Same track tension, same marginal wheel kit since new, same scratchers used as needed, no vast difference in snow conditions I ride in. Aftermarket hyfax is plain junk in my opinion. (Not referring to the Duponts however)

 

[troverman]

Thanks guys. I called the Yamaha dealer and they quote me $16 per side, told me I would have to cut them, and told me it was OEM. That seems way too cheap for OEM.

The grip heater was about $80 which seems close to being right.

I'm probably going to pull the track, which I understand requires pulling half of the chaincase. I'd like to make sure all the bogie wheels are spinning nice and free; I might pull my shocks and have them rebuilt, and very possibly install the heavier spring on the monoshock to prevent sag under my weight.

 

[theCATman]

Yeah $16/each are NOT Yamaha hyfax, and Yamaha ones are pre cut to length.

IDK where you are or how fast you want them, but I order all my Yamaha parts from Kevin @ Port Yamaha in Port Washington WI. Best customer service I've seen/had other than a local Doo-Polaris to me.

 

[biffdotorg]

The grip heater was about $80 which seems close to being right.

Many times that the grip heater kit. Which includes the heater, grip and two rivets to put the grip on. Be sure to order RH or LH models, as they are different. Have some hairspray for lube/glue and you are set. Easy install as I did my RH on my Apex last year.

Good luck

 

[troverman]

Parts are ordered. $80 for the right hand grip heater kit, which includes the element, pig tail, rubber grip, and rivets.

Went with OEM Yamaha standard hyfax, $32 each, not cut to length. This is the second Yamaha dealer that told me they are not cut to length for a 121" track but that they are absolute OEM Yamaha. He also had the Dupont versions, which were $80 each.

I ordered the two inner bogie wheels, since one of mine felt rough to turn.

I also ordered the "RideLite" kit, since that is becoming a big thing to replace hand signals out here in the East.

theCATman, I'm located in New Hampshire; there's only a couple of Yamaha dealers in the whole state. When the parts come in, I'll be driving an hour to get them. Around here, Polaris and Arctic Cat and SkiDoo are the big players...Yamaha is only a tiny percent of the market.

I did live in northern Minnesota years ago, though.

 

[theCATman]

Well that sucks that you gotta cut them down. I guess it's been too many years since I've done a 121" and my old brain forgot, the 136" are to length. At least you got genuine Yamaha.

My nearest Yamaha dealer is 45 miles, so not bad. But again, I've had such great service with Port Yamaha (2.5 hrs away) , if I can wait 3 days for the part(s) I use them. Never have the not had what I need.

Polaris and Ski Doo are huge here too, Cat is all but gone around here. Only 2 dealers within 2.5 hrs.

 

[theCATman]

BTW.... the wheel bearings are serviceable on the '10 up sleds. As long as they aren't too far gone obviously.

You'll need a snap ring pliers & a pick set to get them out and pry the seals out. So, maybe just as easy to buy new if you don't wanna F-around with the extra labor.

 

[troverman]

I am getting 136" slides, need to cut those down. I ordered the entire wheels, so no big deal. I thought he said the outer bogies are serviceable but the inner ones were not? I dunno.

There's still a large Cat presence in our area, and of course Yamaha and Cat are in bed pretty heavily now.

If I was to buy a brand new sled tomorrow, I'd likely pick a Polaris. I'd consider an Apex, but the prices are high and it basically looks identical to the Vector I have now. Polaris has better suspension and a few nicer options. I do really like the 4-stroke engines, though.

 

[yamarider13]

Thanks guys. I called the Yamaha dealer and they quote me $16 per side, told me I would have to cut them, and told me it was OEM. That seems way too cheap for OEM.

The grip heater was about $80 which seems close to being right.

I'm probably going to pull the track, which I understand requires pulling half of the chaincase. I'd like to make sure all the bogie wheels are spinning nice and free; I might pull my shocks and have them rebuilt, and very possibly install the heavier spring on the monoshock to prevent sag under my weight.

I don't understand why you would want to go through the work of pulling the track to work on idler wheels, slides and shocks. If you don't want to do it on the sled you would just have to pull the suspension out not take the whole track off.

 

[troverman]

I don't understand why you would want to go through the work of pulling the track to work on idler wheels, slides and shocks. If you don't want to do it on the sled you would just have to pull the suspension out not take the whole track off.

For some reason I was thinking the skid needed to come off to change the spring...but you're right, it doesn't. In this case, I'll leave the skid in place and maybe just pull the shock completely out.

Thanks