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2011 Vector LTX Exhaust Doughnuts

Big_bill

Big_bill

Newbie
Joined
Nov 30, 2013
Messages
5
Age
66
Location
Grayling Michigan
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2011 Yamaha RS Vector LTX
Had the rattle like I've seen talked about on TY. Took sled apart to get to doughnuts, the two front hanger bolts were torx and the torx stripped. Used my burp gun with sharp chissel on it and spun bolts loose. Will be replacing with stainless steel hex head bolts. Dealer wants $14. each for stock doughnuts. FYI for $4. each you can get
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Felpro Exhaust Pipe Flange/ring for a 1954-1979 VW, part number 22571 that fits perfect. I know a lot of guys says to use copper ones, but those are pricey. I also made a tool that works great for compressing the accordian flange. See pics. Oh yea, groung a smidge off the clamps too. Thanks for all the info on this site. Will be greasing jackshaft and drive shaft bearings tomorrow with method I found out about on this site.
 

[QUOdidn't"Big_bill, post: 1186987, member: 20852"]Had the rattle like I've seen talked about on TY. Took sled apart to get to doughnuts, the two front hanger bolts were torx and the torx stripped. Used my burp gun with sharp chissel on it and spun bolts loose. Will be replacing with stainless steel hex head bolts. Dealer wants $14. each for stock doughnuts. FYI for $4. each you can get View attachment 102718 View attachment 102719 View attachment 102720 Felpro Exhaust Pipe Flange/ring for a 1954-1979 VW, part number 22571 that fits perfect. I know a lot of guys says to use copper ones, but those are pricey. I also made a tool that works great for compressing the accordian flange. See pics. Oh yea, groung a smidge off the clamps too. Thanks for all the info on this site. Will be greasing jackshaft and drive shaft bearings tomorrow with method I found out about on this site.[/QUOTE]


Kip didn't replace them?
 
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next time you do the donuts and since you had the sled pulled apart anyway, just take the muffler/exhaust pipe off, makes the change job easier and its a few extra bolts (and you dont need to compress the already fragile heads) you should make sure where the muffler ties into the pipe coming off the header right in the middle of the seat that the ring clamp holding that portion in is tight, that can rattle too, i put some never seize on it before i tightened it. and its good to pull the exhaust and make sure theres no cracks as all this will make the rattling sounds.
 
J1635 said:
next time you do the donuts and since you had the sled pulled apart anyway, just take the muffler/exhaust pipe off, makes the change job easier and its a few extra bolts (and you dont need to compress the already fragile heads) you should make sure where the muffler ties into the pipe coming off the header right in the middle of the seat that the ring clamp holding that portion in is tight, that can rattle too, i put some never seize on it before i tightened it. and its good to pull the exhaust and make sure theres no cracks as all this will make the rattling sounds.
Click to expand...

But there is a large compressed grafoil style seal holding the header to the rear exhaust where the two clamp together, right? I had to split the exhaust on my 2008 and it took a lot of twisting, pulling to get the two pieces apart, and that was with the exhaust off of the sled (header broke in half so rear portion pulled straight out without removing the gasket and clamp first).
 
Metallicat said:
But there is a large compressed grafoil style seal holding the header to the rear exhaust where the two clamp together, right? .
Click to expand...

the coupling in the middle with the 10?mm bolt? yeah thats the one, it has a graphitey type material that the rear exhaust/muffler pipe slides into. thats where i applied a good amount of neverseize to help them slide together, then i let it run for 10 mins to get nice and hot then i retightened it all. worked great. mine was loose when i bought it though so it might be hard to get apart initially if its never been done. If you take off the 4 bolts holding the muffler down, and then the one bolt under the seat all you should have to do is lift the muffler up an inch or 2 and start twisting it like a bird flapping and it should come apart
 
Ok, thanks for the clarification. Maybe they are no longer pressing them together so tight. I think mine would have twisted the exhaust flanges. It would have been extremely difficult to reassemble. The grafoil gasket destructed from disassembly and the halves would have never pressed back together with a new one. I think I would have to enlarge the exhaust pipe opening first. I installed an aftermarket header which deletes the seal so mine just slides together now. Anyway, sorry for getting this off topic just a bit!
 
Just finished replacing the exhaust donuts in my 2010 Vector. One thing I saw that I didn't like was the condition of the exhaust pipe just ahead of the muffler. The under tunnel exhaust system on Yami 4 strokes are bag for ice buildup. The ice must get smashed up into the open area where the exhaust pipe is exposed. My pipe is more than 50% crushed. Gotta wonder if the restriction is limiting the motor at higher rev's.
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The aluminum support that you show in your picture is bent on my sled. Likely from ice. Still I am very shocked your pipe has caved in like that. I've never seen something like that posted here on any sled.
 
My sled has about 5400miles on it. More than 60% of those miles are put on in the far north of Ontario & Quebec. So lots of -20 to -33 C ridding. There's a ridiculous amount of ice buildup in those conditions.
 
Are you going to replace the pipe ot let it be? If you haven't noticed a drop in power or rpm levels you probably are ok leaving it as is. It took a lot of force to crush that I have to believe. But what if it crushes even more?
 
I think I'll leave it for this season.I can look for a replacement in the off-season or try to get a custom muffler shop to cut out the crushed section & weld in a replacement.
 
Wow those felpro gaskets are cheap! I just ordered 6 of them from autozone cost me 11.94 and free shipping :rocks:

Hard to justify the copper ones at that price. I used the copper on my FX, going to try these on my 06 nytro and 08 vector.
 
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