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2012 AK sled build

Awesome progress. Can't wait to see the finished sled.

Just curious if you went to the trouble to make a new sub frame why wouldn't you change it to a iqr or 600rr front end geometry? Would probably been the same amount of work
 

Nikolai said:
And left handed only TIG welding.
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One (left) handed TIG welding is not just a talent but a art...
 
kennyspec said:
Awesome progress. Can't wait to see the finished sled.

Just curious if you went to the trouble to make a new sub frame why wouldn't you change it to a iqr or 600rr front end geometry? Would probably been the same amount of work

I have a Skinz front end and I think the geometry is fine. The steering setup on the IQR is pretty complex and because the Nytro lower a-arm mounts are parallel to each other the overall tube design can be simplified. IQR has better geometry no doubt, but my game is simplicity and low weight.
 
Aside from steering post mounts the subframe is done. I boxed in the engine mounts, made the tabs for the diecast mounts, and finished trimming the other die cast side.

The motor mounts will get further boxed in after what you see now is welded.
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I had a shop bend it for me. I did some research online and from I read 7075 needs a 1" die or larger to bend without developing cracks. If I was doing a full 90 degree bend I probably would have stuck with 5052. Since it was two large radius 45's I wasn't to concerned. If it does crack over time I'll certainly post about it.
 
I deal a lot with machined 7075-T6 at work. Seems like the entire world supply of thicker material (thicker than 2") has been a bit questionable during the last 18 months or so.The material seems to be less homogenous than before. Still impressive tensile strength in the billet direction, but down by half in the perpendicular direction. Also, loads of stress corrosion crack problems that did not occur two years ago...

Did you put the billet direction along the tunnel or up / down...?
 
I've always bent perpendicular to the grain but I bent this one with it because I wanted to keep it one piece and it's 66" long. I'm hoping since the corners are 45's ill be ok. If it doesn't hold up I have the other half (I originally got a 4'x12' sheet) to make another tunnel which I'll bend the other way and do two pieces.

I couldn't find anyone on the Internet that had used 7075 for a tunnel so I have no expectations at this time.
 
We finaly figured it out last night, Caleb is building a mini Super Cub...

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The subframe is a work of art Caleb. The only thing that looks questionable to me is the vertical tubing for the engine mounts. I'm sure they're going to be strong enough, especially with the lower tubes added ... they just look like they need something more to me.

I know you mentioned earlier about the steering hoop not clearing the battery tray, but can you explain again why you have those clecos still attached?

Also, I would love see a video of your one-hand tig technique (never seen anyone feed rod from the same hand they use to hold the gun before). You Alaska boys know how to get-r-done. ;)!
 
That's Rick welding one handed but next time he does it I'll take video. The 7/8" sleeve on the hoop will bolt the two pieces together since it has to be removable. I'm not sure I'm fully understanding your question.

Judged 101, here's a picture of a stock chassis.
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for comparison purposes.
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Boxed in the upper mounts
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Didn't like how the front looked so I cut it off and plated it.
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Added a tube for the oil tank
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Tunnel in place with the suspension mounts located. It took way longer than I expected. The year before last I didn't get my tunnel completely square so I made sure to get it(and the suspension mounts) spot on this time. Ran multiple string lines and it took forever but it's about as close as I could get it without having a tape that reads 32nds.
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My inner legs will be much more comfortable this season.
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