Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Time is the main thing holding me back. Also because I didn't jig anything before hand, I know the chassis isn't going to be 100% straight and the die cast sides will keep the drivetrain aligned. I dont care if the front suspension is a 1/4" out, but the drivetrain needs to be true. This was just suppose to be a simple subframe and I got a little carried away.
Breeze, I will still play with CF one of these days. This past year has pretty much been dedicated to work and getting myself into a really good job. It was/is worth it but I just didn't have the free time I needed to play with carbon.
Breeze, I will still play with CF one of these days. This past year has pretty much been dedicated to work and getting myself into a really good job. It was/is worth it but I just didn't have the free time I needed to play with carbon.
beeze455
Expert
Been workign on my boat a lot this summer and tossed around a kevlar carbon tunnel idea...still am.
Creek
Newbie
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2012
- Messages
- 10
beeze455 said:
Gonna follow your build if or when you're going to do it!
The carbon-kevlar tunnel is on my to-do list, but the list is still quite longish.........
Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Will there be any more tubes or gussets to reinforce the motormounts?
Whats your thougth about the weight of this semitube built front, are the remaining engineplates heavy versus doing it all out tubular. it would take a bunch of tubes to get all the mounts right and strong enough with tubes.
Whats your thougth about the weight of this semitube built front, are the remaining engineplates heavy versus doing it all out tubular. it would take a bunch of tubes to get all the mounts right and strong enough with tubes.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
The motor mounts are staying as pictured only the 1x1/2" where it ties into the factory lower tube will be heavily gusseted. The subframe has other tubes acting as the main structural members so the engine mounts only need to keep the engine from moving up or down.
It should be quite a bit lighter. The diecast ears, steel engine mount plate, oem tubes that support the diecast ears, and the associated nuts & bolts weighed over 6 lbs and was replaced by maybe 1 pound of chromoly.
I made the mistake of not weighing the subframe, diecast sides, and steering hoop together before cutting everything out but I'm pretty sure the overall weight loss will be 10-12 lbs.
It should be quite a bit lighter. The diecast ears, steel engine mount plate, oem tubes that support the diecast ears, and the associated nuts & bolts weighed over 6 lbs and was replaced by maybe 1 pound of chromoly.
I made the mistake of not weighing the subframe, diecast sides, and steering hoop together before cutting everything out but I'm pretty sure the overall weight loss will be 10-12 lbs.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
The remaining die cast sides should weigh roughly 4.5 lbs each. Stock I think they are 5.5 lbs. Plus they have your rear motor mounts and inner chaincase half built in. I personally don't think there's much weight to lost with chromoly in that area. You'd have to weigh a chaincase half and then your backing plates for the chaincase, jack shaft, driveshaft, ect.
When I pull the subframe off to weld it, I'll weigh my cut die cast sides separately and post the weights.
When I pull the subframe off to weld it, I'll weigh my cut die cast sides separately and post the weights.
LSXM3
Expert
this thing is turning out pretty sweet! Cant wait to see the final results!
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Had one day off this week and spent it all on the subframe.
Started by grinding down the factory upper 1-1/4" tubes as far back as I could, and then tacked some .065 4130 caps on.
Next I tied in the last two 3/4" main frame tubes. They will be tied into the subframe, but not until everything I've done now is fully welded. I know it's going to move when it gets welded so I want to hold off doing the die cast brackets until afterwards.
Also got the 3/4" engine guard in and all three 1-1/4" lower tubes capped.
Hopefully next weekend I can tack up the diecast mounts, finish trimming both diecast sides, and do the last little bit of work to the engine mounts. Then it'll be time to start the tunnel.
Started by grinding down the factory upper 1-1/4" tubes as far back as I could, and then tacked some .065 4130 caps on.
Next I tied in the last two 3/4" main frame tubes. They will be tied into the subframe, but not until everything I've done now is fully welded. I know it's going to move when it gets welded so I want to hold off doing the die cast brackets until afterwards.
Also got the 3/4" engine guard in and all three 1-1/4" lower tubes capped.
Hopefully next weekend I can tack up the diecast mounts, finish trimming both diecast sides, and do the last little bit of work to the engine mounts. Then it'll be time to start the tunnel.
Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Really nice work !
i saw your post on Snowest about weight of the chassi plates, i posted there but i will post it here to.
Right side chassi plate : With both bearings, lower bearing retainer with the three bolts, 2 threaded engine mounts = 3,6 kilo or 7,92 lbs
Left side chassi plate : with steel bracket for engine mount and 3 bolts that holds it. = 3 kilo or 6,6 Lbs
Front tunnel cooler with the protectors removed 1,34 kilo or 2,95 lbs
I now have the chassi plates, front cooler and steering hoop.. but no complete sled.
Time to start planning a build
i saw your post on Snowest about weight of the chassi plates, i posted there but i will post it here to.
Right side chassi plate : With both bearings, lower bearing retainer with the three bolts, 2 threaded engine mounts = 3,6 kilo or 7,92 lbs
Left side chassi plate : with steel bracket for engine mount and 3 bolts that holds it. = 3 kilo or 6,6 Lbs
Front tunnel cooler with the protectors removed 1,34 kilo or 2,95 lbs
I now have the chassi plates, front cooler and steering hoop.. but no complete sled.
Time to start planning a build
We accidentally put it on the skuzzball sled tonight. But the good news is the next one will be quicker.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Here are the weights copied from blowest
Subframe w/o swaybar brackets 18.54 lbs
Steering hoop w/o bolts 2.1 lbs
Right die cast side with both bearings and retainer 7.92 lbs
Left die cast side with steel engine mount & 3 nuts 6.6 lbs
Front cooler w/o protectors 2.95 lbs
12 subframe bolts guessing .5 lbs
38.61 lbs total
Here's mine so far
Subframe with the hoop and motor mounts is still only 13 lbs 2 ounces.
Subframe w/o swaybar brackets 18.54 lbs
Steering hoop w/o bolts 2.1 lbs
Right die cast side with both bearings and retainer 7.92 lbs
Left die cast side with steel engine mount & 3 nuts 6.6 lbs
Front cooler w/o protectors 2.95 lbs
12 subframe bolts guessing .5 lbs
38.61 lbs total
Here's mine so far
Subframe with the hoop and motor mounts is still only 13 lbs 2 ounces.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I'm hoping I come in under 27.5 lbs when it's all 100% done. I'm mounting it back on the sled tomorrow and fabricating new engine mounts.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Put the subframe on the sled so I could start fabbing new motor mounts. I found out the hard way the built in hoop hits the diecast battery tray so I had to cut the tube and sleeve it with 7/8". Other than everything fits great.
Got one die cast side cleaned up
With the loss of the front bumper & bolts, and the front plastics and skid plate being changed to reinforced fiberglass, I should get a couple more lbs out of the front end. Skid plate might end up CF, I have had a roll of it for almost a year now I need to use on something.
Got one die cast side cleaned up
With the loss of the front bumper & bolts, and the front plastics and skid plate being changed to reinforced fiberglass, I should get a couple more lbs out of the front end. Skid plate might end up CF, I have had a roll of it for almost a year now I need to use on something.
Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Will the new enginemount be on the inside of the mounts instead of the outside ?
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I should be done with them today and ill post a picture. I'm basically going to have about a 6" long piece of 1-1/8" .049 coming straight up from the lower 1-1/4" joint, with a 3/4 tube going through it parallel to the motor mount and a .060 4130 plate on each side.