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2012 AK sled build

Got the font running board supports finished up tonight. I had to bring them further back on rail to keep the opening full width. I can still easily get my boot all the way to the chaincase.




Seeing as how I don't have reverse, I ground down the protrusions inside the chaincase. I also drilled out the threaded bung at the top of the die cast side. I'm pretty sure the tunnel skin, frame, and bulkhead are about as light as they're going to get.
 

CR Racing a-arms are on there way.

37" 3 " forward ?

Keep up the good work!
Im searching for inspiration at the moment, the sled has been sitting for a couple of weeks all alone in the garage.
I need to finish the steering and install the new fueltank/pump and seat.
 
Yes to the 37" wide 3" forward.

I hear ya on the motivation to get stuff done. I've taken plenty of breaks from my sled, but it's felt really good to be working on it again.
 
Is it a 4,5" forward 39" width you have now ?
Is your choice of a 3" forward this time to get a better angle of the tie rods ?
 
I think I'm 4.5" forward and 40" wide. I wanted a 37ish ski stance and I went with CR Racing as they seem to have the best combination of lightweight, durability, and build quality. I do like that their front end is only 3" forward, but that's not the primary reason I went with them.
 
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Really liking the new lines of the tunnel. ;)! That's gonna look great with a track underneath it. How are you going mount a snow flap?
 
I think I'm 4.5" forward and 40" wide. I wanted a 37ish ski stance and I went with CR Racing as they seem to have the best combination of lightweight, durability, and build quality. I do like that their front end is only 3" forward, but that's not the primary reason I went with them.
I was to order a front end from cr to but got second thought when I saw that it was "only" 3" forward.
Looking forward to hear your feedback
 
Using Kold Kutter ice screws for traction this time around. Fused them because free labor.


I'm also removing the existing set screws & nuts from the cross bars and replacing them with the ice screws. At $20 for 250 it's pretty cheap traction. They are also fairly lightweight.
 
It may look worse in the pics but it looks lika a huge hole back in the runningboards to get stuck with your foot.
You didnt go for the fift bar there because weight ? :)
 
So I think the hole in the boards just looks big in pictures. I took a few with my boot sitting on them and unless I deliberately stuck the the toe of the boot down there was no way it was getting stuck.





That being said, I did weld a 5/16" X .035 tube on each side and welded a couple screw heads (ground the shanks off) to them for traction. Added about .1 lbs for both tubes so not too bad. I kept the tube higher up so the top would be level with the other cross bars.





Thursday I'll start working on removing the skin.
 


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