2014 Viper LTX SE skid

[bhall80]

My Dad and I pulled the skid on a 2014 Viper with 7400 miles. We have countless issues, corrosion, bent cross bar, bolts broken, some boogies need replacing, straps fraying and even Dupont’s are shot! We are having an issue getting the upper bogies off. See pic... obviously the wheel puller isn’t working! Any suggestions?

 

[blueironranger]

View attachment 140664 My Dad and I pulled the skid on a 2014 Viper with 7400 miles. We have countless issues, corrosion, bent cross bar, bolts broken, some boogies need replacing, straps fraying and even Dupont’s are shot! We are having an issue getting the upper bogies off. See pic... obviously the wheel puller isn’t working! Any suggestions?

I had to use a Brass Punch on the inner race to get them off on my Phazer when I, ironically, upgraded to Cat RR idlers. Placed shaft on a wooden block and jut kept switching sides of the race to "walk" it off the shaft.

 

[RTX]

I have done the same as posted above. If that dont work for you, Cat sells a tool specifically for pulling those wheels.
I dont have the part number but know it has been posted on here before.
Kinda expensive for what it is, but if you cant find another way then i guess it is worth it.

 

[deweysgt]

If you really are interested in the Cat part number for the puller, pm me. I have one but it's buried somewhere in my stock pile in the attic. It is expensive but it's worth the $ once you use it a couple of times. You can even use it with the skid still in the tunnel if your looking to do a quick torsion spring change.

With out the puller you can remove the wheel by doing the following steps:
remove the inner C clip from the wheel, then press the wheel from the bearing.
do both wheels
now you have access to the bearing. slide a thin piece of stock material on each side of the bearing and press on the shaft.
resist the temptation of beating on the shaft
the bearing is a tapered press fit so it only takes about 5mm/10mm and it will slide off
you can also pretreat with WD-40, this will help
on assembly I coat the shaft with anti seize
the Cat kit comes with a really nice impactor that fits inside the plastic and hits on the bearing race just right.
If you can come up with something like that it's your best option.
OR you will need to reassemble in opposite order as you did above

hope this helps

 

[maim]

i put all my upper rear wheels on so that i can do them as dewysgt does. save wheels really well.

 

[bhall80]

If you really are interested in the Cat part number for the puller, pm me. I have one but it's buried somewhere in my stock pile in the attic. It is expensive but it's worth the $ once you use it a couple of times. You can even use it with the skid still in the tunnel if your looking to do a quick torsion spring change.

With out the puller you can remove the wheel by doing the following steps:
remove the inner C clip from the wheel, then press the wheel from the bearing.
do both wheels
now you have access to the bearing. slide a thin piece of stock material on each side of the bearing and press on the shaft.
resist the temptation of beating on the shaft
the bearing is a tapered press fit so it only takes about 5mm/10mm and it will slide off
you can also pretreat with WD-40, this will help
on assembly I coat the shaft with anti seize
the Cat kit comes with a really nice impactor that fits inside the plastic and hits on the bearing race just right.
If you can come up with something like that it's your best option.
OR you will need to reassemble in opposite order as you did above

hope this helps

PM sent

 

[Sevey]

I overhauled my friends skid and was told to use a cro bar, by sneaking the end against the inner race and driving it off the shaft. Obviously the bearing is garbage after doing that, but it worked and didn't damage the wheel. there were a few strike marks on the shaft which I wasn't happy about.

If I were to do it again, I would put the whole thing in the shop press, sandwich the wheel with a few 1/2" plates, and press them off. Again the bearings would likely be stressed and garbage, but would get it off without beating it death.

To re install, I had a piece of pipe cut to go over the shaft to drive back on. Worked well.

MS

 

[cannondale27]

I only use crowbar method if skid is still in sled. Key to any method if you want to reuse bearing is just to hit inner race. Don’t use stock shafts for center shock. 13 rr cat shafts much stronger.

 

[bhall80]

I only use crowbar method if skid is still in sled. Key to any method if you want to reuse bearing is just to hit inner race. Don’t use stock shafts for center shock. 13 rr cat shafts much stronger.

Great thanks!

 

[Rye_Guy78]

I made a puller to get mine off, I’ll take a picture of it this weekend for ya.

 

[bhall80]

I made a puller to get mine off, I’ll take a picture of it this weekend for ya.

No need but thank you. Skid is ready for install!

 

[DVW]

The first time I removed this wheel it wasn’t pretty. Before reassembly I removed the thick paint and applied anti seize coating. After removing the paint the fit was similar to the driveshaft bearing fit. Those bearings have now been serviced with ease 5 times in 5 years and many miles. I would recommend removing paint. I just made a tool when confronted with first time removal on my new snowmobile (photo attached).