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4th WHEEL REUSING EXISTING SHAFT

TOMBOB

TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Joined
Jan 20, 2011
Messages
533
Age
80
Location
Saranac,Michigan.
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2006 APEX ER
My sleds is a 2006 RS Vector GT mono skid 15x121 track, your sled might have different
Shaft lengths.

The Tech section gives you some infor on spacing but not how to do it. My shaft length was
Approximant +/- different. My problem was how do I cut the shafts square.

I must give Larry (BIG DOG) the credit for this. Told me how easy it was and what to
Do so I would like to share that with you on how I did mine.

First, any cutting must be square with the shaft if you have chop saw this is even easier
Standing behind the skid the left side the spacer next to inside wheel needs to be duplicated
For the 4th wheel, mine was 25mm +/-; the measurement for the wheel bearing was 12mm, then
Center shaft needed to be 111mm+/-. Here what I did I to identified shafts as follows

Left end A shaft---------42.5mm stock no modification
2nd wheel B shaft-------25+/-mm stock no modification
3rd wheel C shaft-------111+/-mm revised to align new 3rd wheel
3rd wheel D shaft-------25+/-mm new to match B shaft cut from stock C shaft
Right end E shaft--------42.5mm stock no modification

If you have, a chop saw this is all easy, if not you cut the shaft with a hacksaw or band saw with ease.
Cut the C shaft with 25mm measurement using the B shaft as a guide. Put a line all the
Way around the shaft. Using black tape wrap it to positive side of the shaft then using a
Used plastic bushing, tape the bushing to the shaft (pic’) a bushing with collar helps. With the bushing
You can now use a hacksaw to cut the shaft. Go slow and follow the bushing all the way around the shaft.
Do the same for C shaft. The C shaft aligns the 2nd wheel with the 3rd wheel.
(C shaft=148mm+/-, minus 12mm bearing, minus 25mm B shaft) = 111mm +/-

I have a bench sander and lightly sanded the end to correct any roughness.

Believe me, this is an easy job, with no doubt one of best revision you can do to your sled.

Thanks again to Larry for helpful information.

One of picture shows a shaft I use to keep all theses parts from falling out. It is piece electrical
Conduit, ½ EMT, used coupling for stops vary handy for this job. I used this shaft to install the
Metal wheels while the skid was on the sled.

Word of caution! I have metal wheels on the out side those bearing are 15mm if I had use metal
Wheels on the inside dimensions would be different.

Just a reminder the washers go next to rails one on each side. When you are done set the axial to minimum
By tapping it all way to the front and snug up shaft. Put the adjuster nuts all the way in. This makes it easy
To set the track tension.

The new wheels must match up with existing idler wheels in the center of the skid.

If all this is something you do not want to try, you can buy the kit from Travis at BOP.



 

I used a pipe cutter to make a clean square cut. Takes a few more turns than cutting copper but works.
IMG_4856[1].jpg
 
Tom, you really do stuff slow and correct.
Wish you were closer cause all I have left is that damn speedo problem, patience is not one of my qualities. I now we could sit in garage with cowboy coffee and find my problem, I just get frustrated without being able to talk thru this.
 
Larry going away this weekend call you Tuesday, spend the day ok
 


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