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5/16th washers results

ecarnell

Extreme
Joined
Aug 30, 2004
Messages
69
Location
Kincardine, Ontario
I did a couple of back-to-back runs with and without washers on a long plowed road yesturday. The fastest I've ever had the sled is 128 on the DM (with washers), though consistently run 125 on most plowed roads this season. All runs done within 20 mins of each other on the same streach of road (MPH registered on DM). Was only pulling 10,300 or so during these runs.

1st run - with washers - 126 one way, 123 other way.
1st run without washers - 123 one way, 121 other way.
I was surprized there wasn't much difference, so I took another run without the washers.
2nd run 125 one way 123 other way.
Basically with my set-up (after market helix) the washers appear to make no difference at all on top end.
I did put them back though....
Eric
 

I thought the washers were in there to make it pull harder (i.e. get to top speed faster). Maybe the "clutch guys" can help us out here a bit.
 
Len Todd said:
I thought the washers were in there to make it pull harder (i.e. get to top speed faster). Maybe the "clutch guys" can help us out here a bit.
Are you guys talking about adding washers in place of cutting the helix at the hub?
 
Len Todd said:
I thought the washers were in there to make it pull harder (i.e. get to top speed faster). Maybe the "clutch guys" can help us out here a bit.
the washers are for full shift out- more top end speed. a stock helix isn't machined for full shift out so adding washers will get you there, where most aftermarket heilx's are machined.
 
wahers

allso helps prevent coil bind in the secondary you can cut the boss down but that takes you closer to positive coil bind
 
How thick are these washers and were do you place them?
 
5/16 washers

no the washers go on the studs that hold the helx on to the secoundary clutch betwen the helx and clutch to space the helx out a lttle for full use of the primary and secoundary clutch,s. it,s simple remove the clutch remove the hlex put the washers over the studs replace the helx then put the clutch back on to the sled.
 
Duane said:
Are all you guys using lock washers inside the clutch? If so, is it because they are thicker than flat washers?

Yeah. I'm pretty sure that's it. I am going to order a spring for the primary and bring some lock washers to Bernard's. This is the setup that black john developed and Bob Miller uses. You don't have to pull the primary to install it, and the secondary is pretty easy I guess. Do you want me to order you a spring too?
 
Sure, order me one also. It'll be something to do - better than argue'n with fat George bout whether or not he has the nuts to hold his sled to the bar for 15 full seconds on a trail. lol
 
I've tried it too.

You need an overdrive primary to get any use out of it.
 
washers

no you dont need an o/d sheve to take advantage of the washers if your sled will pull it will pull the belt a little lower in the secounday and about 1-2 mm higher in the primary. the speed ring with the o/d sheive is a 4mm thik ring and i am not impressed with the o/d shives that i have seen an tryed its cheaper and better to cut down the stk sheves a lttle.
 
Re: washers

black john said:
no you dont need an o/d sheve to take advantage of the washers if your sled will pull it will pull the belt a little lower in the secounday and about 1-2 mm higher in the primary. the speed ring with the o/d sheive is a 4mm thik ring and i am not impressed with the o/d shives that i have seen an tryed its cheaper and better to cut down the stk sheves a lttle.

I have to admit, it sounds like a crap shoot. But at $.05 a washer what the heck - eh? Just don't expect to be Johnny Rocket on the lake.
 


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