660' snow drag gearing?

[machz69]

I know this may have been asked but I searched and didn't come up with anything?.. what kind of gearing do you run for 660' snow drags? I was thinking 24-38, just wondering if that seems tall? I'm going to try to run my 1.25 ripsaw with studs, if that don't work I'll be looking at going with my 1.5 and studs, might even cut it down to 1.325. I know there's already some guys on this forum that do snow drags so I figured I'd ask.

 

[machz69]

 

[pro116]

If you run studs that long you would have to relocate the skid to gain clearance.I have seen a few sleds like. this.

Snow drags aren't real popular down here,I wish they where but its all ice.Do the snow drags by you have traction matts you take off on? If so i would gear down to 22-40 for 660.

 

[yukon yamaha]

I think 660 is not about your overall top speed but how fast you get there and if the machine can keep it there, if a machine gets the jump on you off the start it takes alot of HP to make it up on the end of the strip

 

[machz69]

Yeah traction matts would be very nice but now we don't have that here.

I was thinking 24/38, 22/40 would be realy low?.. I'm going to get out and get some testing but just trying to get a feel for a starting point. Yeah I was thinking about how much clearance there is. I"ll have to run 8" external drivers for the 1 and 3/8" track then some studs. But does anyone run a 1.5" track on an apex?

 

[FLYBYU]

I have an 1.5" intense track on mine but went to smaller drivers for clearance

 

[machz69]

How much clearance do you have in the tunnel?.. right at the tight spot (under the seat)?

 

[FLYBYU]

more than an inch

 

[rxrider]

Hard to tell what gearing to choose, it all comes down to traction off the line and down the track.

Rule of thum is; whatever gearing/clutching combo that gets you to the 60 ft marker in the shortest possible time would be a winner, tested and proven. The sled running the fastest 60 ft times wins the race most of the time.

If you run low gearing make sure you lower engagement to avoid spinning out, been there done that. That's is why the 300 HP 2strokers dominates here in Norway, they get the wholeshot and they are gone, the 500 HP 4strokers cannot catch up before the end. Launch control and high HP does spin all the way to the 660 mark. We run tracktion matts off the line, 45 feet or 15 meters, studs not an option.

We're debating on changing the rules, racing 660 on ice to make it more interesting running high HP sleds, also for the security of the high HP drivers. Ice is smooth and flat, snow gets bumpy, and running down the track at 125 MPH or close to 200 KMH is dangerouns.

 

[hornydevil]

This is just my 2 cents. I use to drag 660 on snow back in 1998 till 2001 with a 700 SRX that had 1.5" track. I ended up gearing up 1 or 2 teet higher so I wouldn't spin as much and gaining a bit of speed at the other end, it work pretty good for me, we never had takeoff mat, just hard pack snow.

 

[rxrider]

We did it the same way on the 1998-1999 SRX's, we kept the stock 1.65 gearing, we did pretty good with this gearing, always reeling in the opponent if we did not take the holeshot.

 

[powder muncher]

We do not have traction mats here, in straight snow nothing will beat the 4

stroke turbos with a long track.

Depending on conditions the 144 by 1,5 tracks do good but the 162

mountain sleds with big turbos are real hard to beat when conditions are soft

and deep.

What speeds do you guys get on a 660 run? We usually get 100 to 110 MPH

in the turbo class depending on track conditions.

Just wondering how much faster you get with traction mats.

We do not have any 500 hp sleds here just 260 to 350 hp basic stuff.

Often a well set up 260 hp kit takes the big guys down if traction is a issue

for gearing I found 20 40 hard to beat on a 660 run with the longer tracks

 

[Pete_man26]

Old thread but just and FYI. We just ran a 2010 LTX with 18/38 gearing with a 1.5" track, did 110MPH on GPS on the lake before running out of gear.

However, I'm starting to believe taller gearing or a least lower engagement on snow is the way to go. High engagement or short gearing is just blown out the back.