sledneck22
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I posted this on the two stroke side of things but thought maybe someone here would have some old advice for me with this relic.
I bought an Enticer last year for relic rides in my area. The sled will start and drive just fine but it seams like after it gets good and warm it floods itself out. Then the only way to get it to move again is to remove the carb, start the engine, burn the extra gas in the case, throw the carb on quick and it usually runs for another mile or two. What would be causing the sled to do that?
I took the carb apart and cleaned it thoroughly, and made sure the floats aren't sticking or anything. Would this be the pto seal or something causing problems? Should I just buy a gasket kit and replace everything and go from there?
Also, it doesn't have a stock air filter any more. I have a very fine 30 mesh and prefilter on the carb intake now. Would that cause any of these symptoms?
Any help would be appreciated, I've really only worked on the 4 stroke sleds so some knowledge of the relic 2 strokes is needed! I only want the sled for relic rides and pulling my ice shanty.
Thanks,
Kyle
I bought an Enticer last year for relic rides in my area. The sled will start and drive just fine but it seams like after it gets good and warm it floods itself out. Then the only way to get it to move again is to remove the carb, start the engine, burn the extra gas in the case, throw the carb on quick and it usually runs for another mile or two. What would be causing the sled to do that?
I took the carb apart and cleaned it thoroughly, and made sure the floats aren't sticking or anything. Would this be the pto seal or something causing problems? Should I just buy a gasket kit and replace everything and go from there?
Also, it doesn't have a stock air filter any more. I have a very fine 30 mesh and prefilter on the carb intake now. Would that cause any of these symptoms?
Any help would be appreciated, I've really only worked on the 4 stroke sleds so some knowledge of the relic 2 strokes is needed! I only want the sled for relic rides and pulling my ice shanty.
Thanks,
Kyle
grumpysanta
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
try it with no air filter , if it was a seal it would be too lean. check carb again needle and seat very imp. and make sure FLOATS are good,,,,
sledneck22
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Any base line settings or jet size i should try to find in the carb?
I checked the floats and submerged them to make sure and there wasn't any leaks.
I checked the floats and submerged them to make sure and there wasn't any leaks.
grumpysanta
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
cannot help with jet size but if it responds well for a few minutes you should be in the ball park..
Ding
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The starter circuit may be plugged or the rubber missing from the plunger. Many people erroneously call this a choke, but it is really a fuel enrichener circuit.
Update: I guess I should ask which carb is on it - just to make sure it is stock. I can get you the stock jet info.
Besides that, you may have issues with your exhaust. Make sure it is not partially plugged.
If you still have trouble investigate the engine and ignition health.
Update: I guess I should ask which carb is on it - just to make sure it is stock. I can get you the stock jet info.
Besides that, you may have issues with your exhaust. Make sure it is not partially plugged.
If you still have trouble investigate the engine and ignition health.
grumpysanta
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I have had problems with the plungers for enrichers before , because they get gummed up and keep it running real rich and may stall
sledneck22
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
It's the stock carb. Which side of the carb is this enricher tube on?
grumpysanta
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
it goes in the top with the second cable ...
09nytro
TY 4 Stroke God
Make all the air passages are open in carb , they are in the back where the air box would go , also the main seals could do that , because it's not make lower end compression to push the fuel up though the transfer ports and then starts flooding its self out , it's not an ignition problem , check the muffler to a mouse could have got in there and made a home or a hotel seen that before in my shop
If you do replace the main seals you don't have to pull the engine all apart , just pull clutch , stator turn engine upside down take all the case bolts out and pull off case then pull crank up alittle and put new seals in and drop crank back in ad seal cases let it set for 24 hours then start the engine
It's not hard just take your time , good luck !
If you do replace the main seals you don't have to pull the engine all apart , just pull clutch , stator turn engine upside down take all the case bolts out and pull off case then pull crank up alittle and put new seals in and drop crank back in ad seal cases let it set for 24 hours then start the engine
It's not hard just take your time , good luck !
grumpysanta
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
09 nytro , does it have a crank seal in the middle between the two cyls.
DaJudge
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Also dont forget to check the fuel pump. The diaphragms in them are rubber and they do go bad as well as the vacuum hose.
09nytro
TY 4 Stroke God
On some cranks there is seals in the middle , Polaris likes to do that but on this one there isn't , it's called a labyrinth seal , it kinda looks like a bearing but it's a seal .
