A-Arms: Hygear Slicast vs MountainTech 43" +2"

[grizztracks]

You'll need to get a angle indicator. I'm at 23-24 degrees of caster and 2-3 degrees of negative camber but because everyone's suspension is set a little different you may find a need to tweak it from there. I removed the skis and placed the spindles on two leveled wood blocks to set the initial camber. With the skis reinstalled I then set the initial caster which is more difficult because it changes with the suspension ride height. I started around 26 degrees of caster and then reduced it from there. The final step is to check/reset toe after adjusting caster and camber.

 

[herndonp]

I just got back from riding 507 miles in 3 days up northern New Hampshire. The Mountain Tech A-arms made a huge improvement in straight-line tracking at speed thru the bumps and cornering has improved. (still have inside ski lift and the occasional infamous Nytro head shake, but that is more prevent due to trail conditions (hard trails) in the sugar snow she handles quite well with manageable ski-lift most of the time. I have the WRP seat so my center of gravity is higher due to the additional height this contributes to the higher center of gravity on the Nytro thus more ski-lift. I'm running -1.5 camber and 23-24 caster. My front GYTR shocks have 5mm of preload on the triple rate springs and currently 6 turns in from full out on rebound and 5 in fro full out on compression. Center shock also 5mm preload on dual spring and med on torsion springs and min on transfer (right up to redline on nut). I have thought about pulling limiter up one hole, but with the Mountain tech arms you will experience a little more steering effort and not sure how much more effort I would feel pulling limiter up.


Pete

 

[fishstick]

Thanks all, you (fxnytrotxkid, rrxx-1, 1nc200 & Grizz) sold me on Mountaintech a-arm kit so ordering them for my 2013 XTX Nytro. Let me know if anyone has any "Dialed In" caster & camber settings for a XTX. Barcode looks great too but the additional $200 turned me to Mountaintech.

Really $200 was your deciding factor? No oilite bushings installed not chromoly tubing? Plus I still cant get past the pogo stick shock positioning. But That being said anything aftermarket is better than the stock arms.

 

[rrxx-1]

Really $200 was your deciding factor? No oilite bushings installed not chromoly tubing? Plus I still cant get past the pogo stick shock positioning. But That being said anything aftermarket is better than the stock arms.

You know what turned me away from Barcode? Two things: 5" forward, too much for me, you start to hit stuff such as bottoming when loading sleds, not fully adjustable camber and caster. Those are two big things I did not like that I saw were better on the mountain tech front end. To each there own, that is why we are lucky to have many aftermarket sled companies.

 

[fxnytrortxkid]

I agree on the shock angle but if the upper a arm is gonna be made silly and not around and protecting the shock why not atleast have it done for a reason and be functional. If you had bearing style ends on your shocks I'm sure you could not move the shock forward and use stock locations and have shock at an angle maybe mountain tech can confirm

Now on the angled front shock. I'm not totally sure that just rocking it back will fix anything before creating more issues. I feel having the bulkhead fixed would work better where it actually rakes the a-arms at a 10-15* angle and then rotates them in like the pro-r would be the right way to run the shocks that way so it's still square to the path of the arm movement.

 

[Sledboy]

Really $200 was your deciding factor? No oilite bushings installed not chromoly tubing? Plus I still cant get past the pogo stick shock positioning. But That being said anything aftermarket is better than the stock arms.

==> FIshstick, most of your TY post are on Barecode...Do you work for Barecode? Its was also the 5" fwd seemed too far of a deviation from stock and shipping from Canada.========