a few service questions

[SOL]

Hi

I am just wondering about a few service questions, first I am changing the oil. In the factory manual it clearly states 0w30 oil, I am switching to the full Yamalube Syn. oil and it comes 0w40, since the manual states 0w30 what is the difference if I use 0w40?

Also I had to drop my skid to replace sliders due to windows being to small in the track (09 rtx se) I am just wondering for a newbie what is the easiest way to align the track and set the proper track tension. I am trying to do it all in my shop before heading out for the weekend of riding. Is it possible to lift the sled and just hang 22lbs of weight from the track and tighten until 1 inch from track to sliders?

Any suggestions would be great, I am more concerned about keeping the track centered.

Cheers

 

[arteeex]

I was not aware that we needed to change the oil in the service manual. Mine must be long overdue.

For your sled, there is no problem with running the full synthetic oil. Yamaha is so proud of this oil that they like to charge significantly more for it. I've been running the full synthetic in both of my sleds since 500-mile change and I think it has made me a better person. And, then there's all the other BS about improved cold weather performance, less wear and easier starting with the full syn too.

Track alignment isn't a high precision affair. If you're happy with the current setting make some marks on the rails with a Sharpie so you can set the axle back where you found it - next time you do this. For this round, you can still make marks on each rail an equal distance from the end as a place to start. Then as you tighten or loosen the track adjusters just keep count of the revolutions (or fractions thereof) that you turn the nuts. Obviously, turn them the same amount on each side. The weight thing is fine and probably better than the guestimation I do. Tighten the axle bolt.

Start it up and run the track 30-seconds and then eyeball the alignment by gauging the gap between the drive lugs and rails. If way out of whack, loosen or tighten just one of the adjusters a little bit to drive the track toward or away from the rail as needed. Tighten the axle and re-run the track as before. Repeat if necessary or if you'd rather work on your sled than ride it.

 

[SOL]

Arteeex thanks for the advice. I took the skid /rails off before I could mark them.

I will use your suggestions, thanks.

On a separte note, the factory manual tells me during the oil draining and oil filling to remove the oil filler bolt on top of the motor. After reading the oil change threads on this site, nobody talked about doing that, any reason why the manual tells you to remove the oil fill plug on top of the motor during the draining and filling of the oil?

 

[arteeex]

I do recall the bit about the oil filler cap. The only reason for this that comes to mind is if this were to free a vacuum lock condition. I can't imagine how this could be the case though especially in the head.

If about 3-liters comes out, that's all you need. On the other hand, since you'll have all the body panels off and the filler cap is easy to get to; drain the oil from the engine and tank and replace the filter, then remove the cap and see if any more oil comes out of the engine drain. If not, then for sure removing the cap is a superfluous operation that can be ignored in the future.

 

[dansranger]

Just to add: If I remember correctly the manual said you can check for oil pressure after the oil change has been made using the bolt on the side of the head.